SML&M Co. #1 "Sheyenne"

Devon_Sinsley · April 9, 2016, 1:52am

Here is another front end shot of some more detail work.

The first commercial casting. I have an extra coupler pocket from the 2-6-0 build so I put it on here. I like these Ozark coupler pockets it has a hefty through bolt so there is no issue using it for its intended purpose. pulling.

And Joe no I am using those steam chests and cylinders. Now those are the locos cylinders and steam chests, not the winch’s. I don’t think for the loco they cylinders are all that big. The steam chests seem to tall and I had once thought about cutting them down, but ti am not sure on that either. I will be making the cylinders and steam chests for the winch.

Devon_Sinsley · April 9, 2016, 2:03am

Joe Zullo said:

Devon,

I hope you are going to do something with those huge cylinders. Not only are they too large, the steam chest is way too wide. You probably already have something in mind, but it just struck me looking at your head-on picture. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

You have given me a complex. I now fear my cylinders and steam chests are to big. They may also be sitting out to far. it will require a long crank pin to hook up the con rod. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)

Joe_Zullo · April 9, 2016, 3:17am

Devon,

I’m sorry for giving you a complex! I thought you were going for something along these lines…

WaverlySouthern · April 9, 2016, 3:51am

Devon, you are doing a fine job on the details. Thanks for providing the “how to” explanations. I will be using some of your techniques soon.

Devon_Sinsley · April 9, 2016, 6:28am

Joe,

The original idea of this project was to make a loco very similar to those Eric Schade works on. Which are bigger than the one you posted. However do to the length stipulation it shrank. So it is ending more like the one you posted. I love those little locos and i am just as happy with that idea.

I think for sure, now after you made me selfconscious about my large appendages, I am going to have to move them in. Also I think I will section a piece out of the steamchest to make them shorter. I don’t think I will change out the cylinders. I will live with them.

I am glad you caught it I hadn’t noticed and now is a good time to do it.

Dan,

Glad you’re getting ideas. I get so many from here as well if I can give a few ideas to others then that’s great. If there is anything you want to know more about then holler. I will go into more detail.

Devon_Sinsley · April 9, 2016, 6:28am

Double post

Jean-Gilles_Durand · April 9, 2016, 8:40am

I also saw the problem of cylinders, but as I did not well understand where you want to go, I said nothing.
Maybe that you would like this kind(genre) of kettle.

Unfortunately she is in Gn15

Devon_Sinsley · April 9, 2016, 2:33pm

OK before I can tackle the cylinder issue I have to do a few things. One I need to fit the cylinders for the winch. That will effect the location of the locos cylinders. Also I need to build the side rods and extend the back crank pin to receive the connecting rod. The Lil haulers don’t have connecting rods or giudes. So the crank pins aren’t made for it. I think I have a solution a trip to the hardware store will be telling.

John_Caughey · April 9, 2016, 4:38pm

Hey Buddy,

Here’s a guide, you can omit the drip pans unless you’re going to go elevated.

John

David_Maynard1 · April 9, 2016, 4:50pm

Gee, that looks familiar.

Devon_Sinsley · April 9, 2016, 9:47pm

John,

Thanks I am no longer worried about the cylinder size. My are tiny com paired to that thing. That a very cool locomotive I like the cab the way it goes over the tank I am not fixing it now but that would have been cool.

Devon_Sinsley · April 9, 2016, 9:58pm

OK So thanks to Joe I have had to really enter the design phase to try and figure out how to fit all the busy work in on this locomotive. If nothing else he brought the cylinders to my attention and I noticed for the first time how far out they were set. However, moving them is taking some thought. I have to get all the regular locomotive running gear on but I also have the cylinder, steam chests, guide rods and con rods to put in place. Those will sit barbarically over the first driver.

So I have decided to do it the prototypical way. I am building all the side rods and connecting rods first. This is turning into a fun piece of creative work and I will explain what I am doing all in one post when I get them done on one side. There is some trail and error going on here. Once they are done I will move the cylinders in and cut the steam chest down. I can then make all the valve guides and cylinder guide rod and supports. Then like the real deal I will fit the winch business around that.

I have some homework due bu then I will get back at it.

Devon_Sinsley · April 10, 2016, 3:41pm

Going fishing today so don’t know how far I will get on this today. But I did get a lot done Friday and yesterday. Here is a detailed accounting of the side rods. This was a fun project that I think came out great if I do say so my self.

So I did this on my 2-6-0 also. I do not like the looks nor the way the push in plugs work on the Bachmann stuff. An by now people should know I like to tap and thread stuff. So I tapped a #6-32 set of threads into the wheels to take a #6 cap screw. They tap easy but as always use a at least some oil but I have switch this go around to actual cutting fluid for when I do aluminum which does not tap easy. I do recomend cutting fluid for all of it, I put it in a needle bottle for easy dispensing.

So this is what came up with. I did one side first because there was a lot of trail and error. I think took time to photograph the basic steps for the second one. So in this picture you see the cap screws. The front wheels receive a 3/8 long screw as is. The back one needs to be longer and something added to make a place for the connecting rod. These locos do not have one. So I took a piece of 3/16 diameter X .035 wall thickness aluminum tubing and cut 1/4 long piece. I threaded it and put it on the cap screw and glued it in place and tightened it on. This makes a great shoulder bolt for the con rod. In hind site just drilling it to slide on would have worded no need to thread it. Also threading aluminum is a bear, it galls easy and heats up fast. So go slow. Also I threaded a section long enough to ensure I had good threads for a 1.4 then cut it off It was easier to hold in the vise. lots of cutting oil, back out every turn and a half or so and clean of the chips.

Devon_Sinsley · April 10, 2016, 4:04pm

Next I moved onto the side rods.

To make them I used a piece of brass strip 1/4 X 1/16, a piece of .250 X .125 brass tubing, .100 X .187 styrene strip, .060 hex rod.

Now each of the rod ends are made 1 cm long. But to make them it was easier to make one piece 5cm long and then cut them off. I did this by soldering two pieces of the brass strip to the small sides of the tubing. I did this for two reasons. The hole needed to go on the wheel would have been to large for just the tubing and also it gave a solid piece I could bevel. Once you have them soldered on then file everything down flush. You certainly could use a narrower strip and save on filing but this is what I had.

I then cut them of 1 cm long and then had to plug one end of each piece. I don’t know what size rod this is.

Then you file them down to a desirable width that leaves enough meat to drill the hole and also look good. then bevel the open side ends.

Then fit these on the styrene rod so that the length is where oyu need it, for me the crank pin center to center was 1 5/8 so I made my side rods 2" which place the wholes in a good spot.

I glued them on with CA. I also pushed the styrene in all the way so I could drill through it as well. I drilled the holes in four steps increasingly larger sizes to avoid the bit wanting to tear through.

Next make the con rod. To do this all I did was take the same square brass tubing without the side brass added, closed one end, shoved the styrene rod in and glued it and drilled the hole. The shoulder bolt I made is a smaller diameter so it was not necessary to reinforce it and I wanted a smaller profile. I measured its length by moving the front axle to the rear so it would rotate and then put the rod on and rotated the wheel to a position closest to the cylinder and cut it at a length that looks right.

And that’s the results.

Devon_Sinsley · April 10, 2016, 4:14pm

Along the way made a repair. When I moved the front axle back I cut one of the grooves too wide. The bearing block kept popping out. So I took a piece of styrene half round and glued it in.

works great. Another repair that I made was to reconnect the smoke box to the lower half of the boiler shell and reinforce it. I did this by putting all the pieces in place on the chassis and then gluing them where they touched. There were gaps so I added some .020 styrene sheet piece glued in place. I use MEK for most all my styrene work and it melts it and I learned something when soft you can use it almost like a filler and push it into the gaps. This worked great. Bondo on the outside will smooth it out and finish filling the gap.