Wow, Devon with this much extra time, you’ll have time to cast this beauty!
Not hardly. First off this is a temporary things hopefully. I didn’t/dont want something plain, but at the same time do not want to put much effort into these trucks with the hope of replacing them someday. This is in an effort to make the models 3 year old friendly. So if I can make serviceable prints I will be happy. We will save the casting for the link and pin trucks.
nope. look at the pics. you need a sufficient sized plate to stabilize the one-axle-truck against tilting or canting.
at least that is, what the old Greek with the leverage points would say.
1 Like
I’m following korm. My little plate won’t stabilize much. That should be easy to solve and still maintain the same mounting point which is what is the ultimate goal
yes. and dont forget to make counterpart plates under the car.
the retaining bars of the original are not needed, if you use a center-bolt.
1 Like
Resin side frames will warp/crack in time. I get them printed in Nylon 12 when I want them to last.
Don’t forget, these have use in the future string of mining carts, industrial cars, cane cars, etc. you will soon need to build!
Eric
1 Like
Would this work? Now the entire top of the bolster could and would ride on the corresponding body bolster.
i don’t know.
but i suspect, that the LGB planners knew what they did.
the cantering forces are not sideways, but forth and back.
1 Like
Well Devon,
That truck may work but as Mik would say you should always check behind the washer and dryer cause you might find a bachmann friction bearing truck that you could just cut in half and move on.
This is MIK not 3D coloring book by numbers here. And yes you win on the Penguins…saw the recap in a hotel I didn’t want to be in this weekend.
1 Like
Rooster,
I will be using “found” trucks from the recycling bin for this car. The new truck will be for future cars in the circus consist.
Korm,
still tracking with you. So wider front to back and then make matting surfaces on the car wider front to back also. Basically “square” surfaces instead of narrow rectangular ones?
What the hell does that have to do with your 2025 Mik build then?
Fair question. This is my MIK 2025 build which will be part of a larger circus train building on the MIK 2025 theme. It ties in. Just not directly. Better than discussing beer on the children’s thread.
I only include this Devon as you are channeling your inner Vic…
I always thought a ride on would be fun. But not gonna happen. I have considered using z scale to make a 1:24 ride on. Lol.
Well getting the art work done. Painted a “sky” on one end and then applied decals.
3 Likes
that is, what i would do.
I’ve always said, if you have room for Ride-On, you have room for 1:1 feldbahn. Estate RR anyone? 
I think there’s a compromise you have to accept in all 3d printing.
I’ve found the best glue has been the filament itself mounted in a dremel tool. Get it spinning hot enough to melt and filling in gaps makes the best joints. Some people use a 3d pen, that squirts gooey filament. Of course you’d want to use these on the backside of the print where it can’t be seen.
There are plenty of discussions about welding two dissimilar 3D products together. This is a good starting place to look for adhesives that work on different filament types.
https://all3dp.com/2/gluing-3d-printed-best-ways-bond-3d-prints/
1 Like
So a little progress. I will finish no problem with the main car. I basically only have left to install the speaker and do a little weathering on the trucks to call it done for the challenge.
1 Like
I’m done except final reassembly. Got the holes drilled for the speaker and repainted the bottom. Weathered the trucks so they are not just stark black. Nothing special or elaborate. Inside the car the only thing being done is the speaker. I have it on hand. I don’t have the electronics or battery yet so can’t really do much with the interior until I get that all worked out. Once assembled I will take the glamor shots.
1 Like