Come on Korm that picture was taken in 19 14 :29 we were not born then!
Yes. Lol I did glue them in
I apologize Korm. My goal is to beat Vic this year. But since he considers the MIK to be a one day challenge it makes it tough. Lom
not the least chance for that!
specially this year.
if he wants to weather his model, he only has to hold it out of the window for ten minutes.
Right. Nothing like having smoke and soot as everyday weathering agents.
you are a sloppy investigator, young man!
my true age you can estimate by the first of the three pics.
All said Iâm pleased with where this is going. It wonât be the most incredible scratch build as there ever was. But itâs rewarding. Itâs going as planned.
I have you pegged at 23???
WRONG
not only the young can be silly.
I think Dave is referring to the cast metal ones you made that I ended up with.
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Resin side frames should work but the bolster needs to be FDM printed. I discovered this last year when I resin printed a whole bunch of trucks and within 2 months they all had dropping bolsters. I just acquired a FDM printer and have some bolsters that fit USAT style trucks if youâre interested.
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I love those trucks and still have the mold. I should cast more of them. 3d printing is great for detail but is brittle. There are low temp resins made to print masters then burn out for molds. Im thinking I want to explore this
Im seriously looking at 3d resin you can print, mold, then burn out for casting. White metal is still king. Lol
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Yes it exists because I see on the resin groups of Facebook jewelry folks all the time doing just that.
Too bad I didnât live closer, Iâd like to learn metal casting! Make things out of aluminum.
Lost PLA casting might be a less expensive option to consider too.
I am no expert by any stretch of the imagination. One of the reasons I am not actively making metal trucks for all my rolling stock is the poor results I get. By making a mold and then pouring the metal into it I donât get good clean pours. This is why I would love very much to switch to âlost waxâ and spin casting. Even a rubber master mold may work a lot better with a spin caster. Forcing the metal in with inertia makes sense to me. With resins now made for the purpose I really am intrigued by the idea. If only I could come up with a safe way to spine cast. The machines are expensive and doing it by hand is just sketchy to me.
On another note, I made a major blunder. You canât see it in any of the pictures I have taken so far, but on the inside I made 1/2 X 1/2 X 1 wood blocks and glued and pinned them into the corners as both reinforcement and of the corners and to give me a place to screw the deck to car body from underneath. Well like a numbskull I put those blocks all the way tot he bottom of the corner of the car. and then I proceeded to glue and pin the heck out of them. Unfortunately I left no room for the deck and frame work. As such I need to dissect the project and move the blocks up to allow for the installation of the deck and frame.
Not sure how I am going to accomplish this without destroying the entire thing. My thought is a new fresh hacksaw blade and then cutting along the mated seems. This should cut the wood and pins along the seems and let me remove them.
I have a filament printer as well as a resin printer. I just donât get near the fine detail with filament that I would want for detail parts to cast in white metal.
Join the club! Besides what I mentioned on my thread, I painted your cast trucks today and left them hanging in a cardboard box perched on top of a pile of junk in front of my gas fireplace to speed up the drying process. Well, the perch wasnât as stable as I thought and the whole thing tumbled to the tile floor dumping the trucks out on the tile. Fortunately no damage except some chipped paint.
Resin side frames, filament bolster. Seems to be working okay for me.
Now thatâs a great idea. I should have never designed them as a one piece print in the first place.
Devon, I wonder if a pressure pot would work with the lost âwaxâ casting. I use one for removing air bubbles in poured epoxy molds. Depending on the pot, you can use anywhere from 40-60 psi. Would need an open top mold so the air pressure can reach the cast metal to force it into the nooks and crannies of the mold. May not have enough time to build pressure in the pot before metal starts to solidify. Not sure it will work, just a thought. Kind of opposite of putting resin molds in a vacuum chamber.
If you choose to use the sling method, PLEASE make sure you video it and I highly recommend you wear your tinfoil hat 
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