Large Scale Central

Simulated wood, peeling paint

I did a little test of some techniques for simulating the look of old wooden boards with peeling paint. I plan to use this method on the upper level of the small house I’m working on. I started with a scrap of 1/8" thick styrene about 2" x 4". I scribed “wood grain” into the wood using a piece of hacksaw blade, as described in my other post. A hobby knife was used to carve additional cracks, nail holes, etc. Next I painted several layers of Apple Barrel acrylic paints, in thin washes, allowing each to dry before adding the next layer. I started with a couple washes of warm brown (Nutmeg), and then a mix of brown and orange (Apricot). Another wash of brown, then a darker, slightly redder brown (Espresso). When applying the darker color, I left some of the lighter areas exposed to provide variation. Last was a thin layer of black, just enough to seep into the crevices; a little more was added to darken specific areas. This produced a very life-like representation of old, weathered wood:

Note that for weathered wood in colder, wetter climates, you’d probably need more grays and less of the warm tones. Next I dabbed on some small blotches of “Micro Mask”. I also added a strip of tape to represent an area which had once been covered by a now-missing batten. After the Micro Mask had dried, I coated the whole thing with Testor’s enamel thinner. While this was still wet, I very lightly brushed on some random splotches of Apple Barrel “Hunter Green” acrylic paint. The paint thinner causes the water-based acrylic to smear unevenly:

After the paint and enamel thinner had dried, I pulled off the tape. Then I washed the piece in cold water to remove the Micro Mask. The effect turned out beautifully. However, the base coats came off the styrene in a few places. This should be avoidable, simply by better preparation of the surface prior to painting:

This method of replicating the look of peeling paint on old wood show great promise. In the future I will carefully sand the surface and clean it with alcohol before painting, and that should eliminate the few adhesion problems seen in this test. .

It looks like places where I grew up before you added the green moss.

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/SimulatedWood/wIMG_1182.jpg)

Ray,

That turned out great. Did you use individuale strips for the boards or is that one piece with the boards scribed first?

Dave

brilliant!

The battens are individual pieces glue to the base piece. I cut a couple grooves to represent the spaces between boards, where it’s missing a batten.

Pretty cool. No, VERY cool. I really like the wood effect you started with. It’s a great base to showcase your peeling paint idea.

WOW! Fantastic look. The knot & spike holes really add a lot.

That is really neat work Ray–really well done

Ray,
I keep looking at your work and determined that you are out of control!!! You need to go buy 100 hacksaw blades cut them into 1" pieces and sell them on E-Bay as the “Ray Blade” it makes wood grain,gives faux finishes,grooms the dog and still can cut through this tomato all for only $9.99 + S&H
:wink: