I stole this photo fair and square from the OVGRS.
My question is, where do you find that L bracket. Everywhere I look, I only find brackets that are larger than 2.5 inches on a side. That appears to be less than 2 inches on a side. So, come clean, where do you find them? 
I havenāt looked recently, but Stanley makes a 1" L. Should be at Home Depot in the bagged hardware section. Donāt look in the framing hardware area.
Steve - search on ācorner bracketā or āmending plateā. Ace, Home Depot, Lowes all have ones about 2 inches and some carry ones that are 1 1/2 inch.
Also ācorner braceā
Cool. Home depot had the 1.5 inch ones for $2.27 for a package of 4. Of course they were out of them and the guy didnāt expect any for another week.
The more expensive store around the corner had them for $4.47 for a package of 4. The very same thing. I guess they were prouder of them. The important thing is that they were in stock. So I bought 2 packs. That will carry me for a while.
Around here we usually find the 1 1/2" flat angle brackets in a Home Hardwareā¦similar to Ace Hardware in the States. These stores are local franchises, and you can usually get them in quantity, for a discount, if you talk to the manager. Paul Norton has just ordered a bunch of them for our needs. But; even at a dollar each, the throws we create from them are rather inexpensive, over other ideasā¦and they workā¦very well, only needing slight adjustment of the screw depending on the swelling of the wood roadbed, due to wet weather/dry weather changes. The only labour involved in making the throws, is to drill the pivot hole in the corner, and the 1/16th" hole for the wire link. The nut/bolt arrangement, is only to make it less hard on your fingers, when throwing the switch.
The weak link in any throw mechanism, is the throw bar of the switch.
The usual throw bar found on switches in Large Scale, is made of plastic. Out in the real World of our back yards, the sun does funny things with plastic. Not all plastic is made durable enough to stand the UV raysā¦the Aristo switches are very bad for getting rather brittle. The first part to go is usually the end tab, due to it being rather fine. The next to go is at the point rail attachment screws. Other brands have the same problem over timeā¦We have tried them allā¦!!
Some people replace the throw bars with other substitutes; printed circuit board being one of them. We use brass flat stock, which makes a permanent replacement, making sure to Loctite the screws to the point rails; but the track power crowd canāt use this material, as it will cause a shorting problem.
Fred,
Is the screw that forms the pivot a wood screw of say an inch and a half or so, of a machine screw that goes through the PT wood? Or is it a machine screw that only goes part way through the wood.
From the drawing, it appears that it is the latter, but that does not make sense as you canāt get any clamping on the bracket that way, which, to my mind, it the heart of the system.
http://ovgrs.editme.com/files/Switches/Throw-J.bmp
Never mind, I just read this drawing. Have you had any failures with the wood screws? Any holes get stripped out?
Steve,
McMaster-Carr has the 1 1/2" ones for $0.51 each
Steel L-Shape Bracket Zinc-Plated, 1-1/2" Length of Sides, 3/8" Width
Bob C.
Hmmmā¦ Since I seem to have an endless supply of small pieces of acrylic, Iām thinking I could cut something in a triangular shape thatās easy to drill and would be weatherproof too. Canāt beat Free 
Yes, Jonā¦use whatever is handyā¦
Steve;
The pivot screw we use is a #6 panhead wood screw, 1 1/2" in length. The screw should be tightened so that the tightness gives enough friction, to prevent the points from throwing, but loose enough that you can throw them with your fingers. (I think it is a number sixā¦I donāt have a box of them with me just nowā¦)
I also donāt care if the brackets rustā¦it just makes them less visable, and blend in to the track.