Large Scale Central

Silver Soldering 101

Tools and Tips
#1

OK so one technique valuable to modeling that I do not posses (just one of many I do not posses) is soldering in general and specifically silver (hard) soldering. I have done basic electrical soldering with fair success and only recently have applied it to what I would consider a satisfactory result. But for my impending MIK 2016 build I want to learn to solder brass and other parts with structural integrity. So I have been pursuing the internet. Much can be gained on the subject and of course Youtube has some excellent stuff. But I came across this and thought I would share.

http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/advanced_internet_files/meccanica/easyweb.easynet.co.uk/_chrish/t-solder.htm

It is a pretty decent tutorial on the subject.

Also I have learned that all solder is not created equal in that rosin core solder like I own for wiring is not the best product for soldering when structural elements are concerned. Also that the heat of the metal needs to melt the solder not the torch (makes sense). This would stand to reason why previous attempts to solder bits and pieces have had less than acceptable results.

So I will be taking any advice one has on the subject. I have read bits and pieces on here especially on the Ruby Bash thread and I think I am getting the idea of it.

#2

After doing a bit more reading on here, I am wondering do I need to hard solder at all? I mean I am not making a live steamer, I am making detailing parts. Could I use the same solder I was using and just maybe need to clean and scuff my materials more. In the past i have just gotten very uneven flow of the solder. Since doing wiring it has gotten better. Maybe i will try again with my soft solder and see what happens.

#3

For structures I’d recommend silver BEARING solders like plumbers use. The flux is water soluble and it is stronger than your soft rosin core.

Hard solders are more than you need.

I do recommend torches with this solder as it takes more heat. Heat the thickest metal first, the solder will flow towards the heat. Grind a tip on a section of coat hanger (the metal kind silly) and you can use it to help break the surface tension of the liquid solder so it runs/flows on the surface.

John

#4

I take it the stuff used for electrical is rosin core? I am not near mine but I believe it is. I believe I know the stuff your talking about. Is that what is refereed to as “Acid Core”. Do I need a separate flux with it?

#5

I found what your talking about

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290633

Thanks John

#6

I do not use acid core solder, since the acid needs to be thoroughly washed off the item after its soldered. I use the silver bearing plumbers solder, and the flux. I believe the flux is O’tay brand, in the green and white can, from the plumbing department of the local big box store. I have soldered feeder wires to my HO and HOn30 rails, rail joiners in HO and HOn30, and other small projects with the silver bearing solder and a soldering iron. For larger projects I would use a solder gun. Using a torch, well…I do for plumbing projects, but I am a tad gun shy with the smaller sized metal bits I use to model with. Always make sure the metal is clean, and tin the surfaces to be soldered together before soldering.

Rosen core, lead/tin solder is fine for soldering up electronic projects, and that is all I use it for.

#7

Devon Sinsley said:

I found what your talking about

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290633

Thanks John

That will do.

John

#8

http://youtu.be/iBji-Oz3J7E

A good tutorial

#9

Devon,

you mentioned not getting good solder flow in your efforts, which can be one of several problems. cleaning your work prior to soldering is a big issue in this. the cleaner the work is will allow the flux to have an easyer job of doing its job, and sufficient heat is ultimately what does the final job of solder flow. this is true of all solder joints and also improves the strength. I was never good with a torch myself, but found salvation with one of the resistance soldering units on the market, for large scale I would recommend one of the higher power units so that you can heat the joint quickly, get the proper flow, and let it cool. the tweezers that are available with a foot switch allow you to hold parts together thru solder and cooling phase, without burnt fingers.

Al P.

#10

Devon,

I use a Weller D650PK 300/200 Watt 120V Industrial Soldering Gun. I can solder larger hobby brass as easily as soldering 18g wire with it. See photos below. Soldering power leads to 332 brass track is made easy using the gun. One tip when soldering track is to use wet cloth to either side of where you are soldering. It help to prevent heat loss, sounds weird but works. It’s always about More Power.

#11

Yeah I can see where the resistance set up would be the ticket for large projects. I am not ready yet to dive that deep. Right now its small bits here and there for detailing. But I could easily see diving into an all brass loco build or even a live steamer someday. . . way in the future. After all I have read I think I was just not going about it right especially the two things you brought up. Surface prep and heat. Also not having a properly tined iron I think as well. That made a giant difference in my electrical connections