Some more parts came in.
First, we have a tiny 4-wire connector to allow the signal heads to be replaced should one fail. These things are TINY and should be challenging to wire up.
And more tiny stuff, a collection of M1.5, M2, M2.5 and M3 screws.
And lastly, some threaded inserts for 3d printed items. Also in M2 - M6 size.
For the mast signals, I’ve settled on the trilight, or “Type G” signal. My version is loosely based on the GRS type G. They will be in either single or dual head.
Here’s a closeup of the mini screws (see previous post) that secure the front to the back of the signal, to allow repair or replacement of a failed signal.
I’m just about done printing all the bits for the mast signals on the section I’m thinking I can get done this year. Each mast signal consists of a base, equipment cabinet, mast (acrylic tube, not printed), a number board, and 3 bits for each signal head.
I’ve also printed a centering jig for when I glue the bracket to the signal back. Some 1 minute epoxy and voila.
I have some plastic food containers that I use for various things, that are perfect for holding the parts for each signal.
Now to figure out how to mass-assemble these, so each one doesnt take a half hour.
Which connectors are you using for the tiny 4-wire cable? Looks like a JST product to me…
You might be able to find pre-built cable assemblies with that series of connector, or even just pre-crimped leads. It saves you some of the tiny fiddly hassle but will cost more. Might be worth it to avoid fiddly assembly for the many signals you’re planning?
Yea, these are pre-crimped with 100mm leads. Not too bad, but I had to order some smaller shrink wrap, since the wires are 26ga.
That’s not fast?? Huh. How many are you planning on making?
This year’s plan is for eight mast signals, and about twice that in dwarf signals. I’m doing all the mast ones first, then I’ll do the dwarf signals for each location as I start installing the various hardware bits.
That’s going to look so unbelievably cool, and will be awesome to operate by.
Are the LED’s fairly visible in daylight? I assume the signal hoods make a big dif.
So I was cleaning up outdated bookmarks but I found these two and instantly thought of you.
If you don’t have it start on page 11 of the PDF. WAY to heavy duty for me man but it’s very cool and can seriously zone ya’ out.
Then I found this link so I’m just throwing it here if you don’t have it already as well.
The acrylic tube is too fragile to be a good choice here, so I went back to my first idea, thin wall steel tube. Drilled out the hole, then ovaled it out with the bit to make it easier to slide the wires down.
Work it through and get the signal back in place.
And snug the wire down fairly flush. Probably epoxy these to the back.
A week of days in the 40s to 60s, and minimal refreezing at night, took care of most of the snow. RR is mostly clear now, enough to start getting some wiring planned out and in place.
First up is the switch detection for the EB end of the siding at Burke.
The detection brackets will get some kind of cover, but the switches themselves are (allegedly) IP67 waterproof, so I dont really need it.
The wires will go through a hole under the benchwork here and over to the first node in the system.
Letting the throw bar bump the switch, rather than trying to grab onto the end of the throw bar, that’s brilliant. Nice and simple.
SPDT, right? White wire connecting to rail power (or other common bus) somewhere, and black & blue sending indication back to home base?
Yea, and the lever is spring stainless steel, so 1) yay stainless, and 2) can flex to account for any difference in throw. They work really well here.
Black is common, and blue/grey are normally open/normally closed. But basically yep, it’ll report when thrown.
Cool. I couldn’t see the grey (“white”) wire, so assumed it was the common.
Are you running a signal bus? For me, I’d tap into rail power (DCC) and save a wire, or at least make the attempt. But I can see the value in making the signalling independent of everything.
I have a large 12v power supply and a bunch of 10 gauge wire running to various places. I’ve been using buck converters to drop that to 5v for the various circuits everywhere.
Some work today, checking clearances with my 45 ton clearance gauge. First signal here is the one leaving from the passing siding at Burke headed to Williamsport.
Also getting the switch position detector in place.
Realy looking super, Bob. It’ll be so awesome to see it in operation.
Are your 3d prints coated with a uv-resistent coating? Or are you using a uv-happy filament?
PETG, and a couple coats of paint. Should live a while outside.
Perfect, thanks. I’ll probably use that, or ASA, not sure.
I like PETG becuase I still don’t need an enclosure. ASA or nylon or any of the other semi-exotic filaments need much more airflow control (no breezes!)
Didn’t know that, thanks.
How far are you from an operational test of a set of signals, talking to your dispatch board?
No hurry, I’m just excited about where this story is heading!
Bob it’s my understanding that PETG is translucent compared to ASA & PLA. Are you getting any bleed thru from the LEDS?
