We have a fair amount of track movement with the large tenperature changes here on the High Desert. Moving rail to tighten gaps is a continuiong project. Has anyone thought about a “tool” that would help with this task?
I would think the usage of Hillman (or other manufacturers) rail expansion sliders would solve that problem. They allow for the movement and expansion of track without leaving huge gaps in the rail.
The most effective is continuous S-curves that automatically compensate.
Actually where a lot of the movement is is on the S curves. When I built the layout I avoided straight track for the most part. It just doesn’t like 55 at night and 100 during the day!
Doug:
Interested in your comment that the separation problem is occurring on bends. The conventional wisdom is that problems can be expected on straights - the longer the straight, the more potential for problems.
Since Perth temperatures can fluctuate almost as much as the ones you describe, I’ve addressed the issue by purchasing two of the Hillman expansion joiners Warren described. I haven’t installed them yet, and will defer doing so until I understand why you are having issues on curves.
Do you free-float your track? What are you using for ballast? What type of track joiners are you using? Are you running on sand, rock, gravel, clay or something else?
So far I haven’t had any problems due to track expansion, however I did find that the screws on my railclamps needed tightening recently. I’m not sure if this is due to heat or something else.
The clamp issue is mostly caused by square corners and sharp edges (relative) of the clamps digging into the rail. After 5 years down, my current indoor layout needed clamps tightened this spring. Things were starting to sputter and my track was clean…checked clamps and sure enough where I was getting sputters had loose clamps. Tightened and all was well.
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:This is quite intresting info that I didn't know but I do understand . I have completed my full loop(approx375 feet) and 75% of my track is clamped and soldered(aristo track(brass) w/ factory clamps) A good bit is secured to my ladders and I did let the curves un-fastened at the close to ground level points, the higher elevations are fastened. I do have some S-curves in my longer runs though. I came home from work today after 2 consectuive 100 degree day's and inspected the rail but it seemed like nothing moved? I still have the same amount of gap in the turns that I purposely left? I'm really beginning to wonder how much this stuff really expands and contacts and at what rate? I do think though, that the one outter unfastened curve pushed outward about 1/2" off the ladder, or it could just be me? I know it will expand outward on the turns so I purposely left them unfastened on the ground level runs. Not trying to thread jack here!!! but a darn good question!!! and I know it is always a debate. It's like talking motor oil on my automotive board. Always brings up many many opinions and big discussions. Doug...thanks for this post!
The most effective is continuous S-curves that automatically compensate.
David, I don’t think it’s you. That track does move!
I found two more enlarged gaps yesterday and they were on two legs of my turning wye which is about 15-ft, radius. It tightened the gap to zero on one end of the LGB brass rail and was a quarter inch on the other.
Ballast is what they call #5 gravel here in California and it is about 1/8-inch gravel with dust. The track is free-floating and laid on gravel. I used LGB rail joiners.
I don’t think you hijacked the topic at all Since I’m legally blind it just keeps me busy with track inspections!
Doug Arnold said:Since you live in the west I think it's only fair to support enterprise on the Pacific Coast. Split Jaw railclamps are the leg articulations of of the common apis, and should be acquired in large numbers at the earliest opportunity, along with the expansion sections.
David, I don't think it's you. That track does move! I found two more enlarged gaps yesterday and they were on two legs of my turning wye which is about 15-ft, radius. It tightened the gap to zero on one end of the LGB brass rail and was a quarter inch on the other. Ballast is what they call #5 gravel here in California and it is about 1/8-inch gravel with dust. The track is free-floating and laid on gravel. I used LGB rail joiners. I don't think you hijacked the topic at all Since I'm legally blind it just keeps me busy with track inspections!
Support your nearby local state!
Split Jaw in Oregon.
Ka-dee in Oregon.
Leupold in Oregon.
Uncle Mikes’ in Oregon.
Ah, sorry, the last two are shooting stuff, got carried away there fer a minute…
tac
I will say I use split jaws on the bridges and in tunnels. And I have Kadees on everything. Three cheers for Sam!
Doug, your combination of free-floating track and LGB sliders sounds smart for a hot climate. You want the track to be able to move - but I guess that means constant vigilance in hot weather.
I am keen to trial the two pieces of Hillman expansion track I bought recently. It’s winter here (that means 70 degrees, shorts and T-shirt), so there’s no rush to deploy them yet. I have one area that gets full sun all day, so that’s where they’ll eventually go.
I will be interested how the expansion track does. I’ll just keep checking the tracks. It’s good exercise!