Large Scale Central

Rust-Oleum Paints

Problem Solving
#1

I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

#2

Yea, Rust-Oleum paints, in my opinion, are pretty crappy for model work especially the 2X stuff. Sure it works great on Patio furniture but puts out way too much paint for model work. Kyrlon is not any better in there 2X spray, again just too much paint coming out of the nozzle for model work. I have been moving toward cheap store brands, because they skimp on the paint pigment and you get a finer/lighter coat of paint.

If it says wait 48 hours before re-coat then wait 48 hours, better yet wait 60 hours depending on temp and humidity.

I have almost given up on Ripoff-Oleums paints. In the past couple of years I have probably returned 20 cans to Home Depot because they quit spraying after a single use and sit on the shelf for a month or two. Yes, I know how to clear the nozzle and pull it off and soak in solvent to unplug it, but why in hell should I have to do that. When I buy a can of paint I mark it with the date so I know how old the paint is. I have some cheap hardware store brands in the cabinet that are 6-7 years old and still work fine.

The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers. They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don’t clog up.

Doubt if this helped you much but it let me unload on something that has been p-----g me off for a long while.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#3

Rick Marty said:

Yea, Rust-Oleum paints, in my opinion, are pretty crappy for model work especially the 2X stuff. Sure it works great on Patio furniture but puts out way too much paint for model work. Kyrlon is not any better in there 2X spray, again just too much paint coming out of the nozzle for model work. I have been moving toward cheap store brands, because they skimp on the paint pigment and you get a finer/lighter coat of paint.

If it says wait 48 hours before re-coat then wait 48 hours, better yet wait 60 hours depending on temp and humidity.

I have almost given up on Ripoff-Oleums paints. In the past couple of years I have probably returned 20 cans to Home Depot because they quit spraying after a single use and sit on the shelf for a month or two. Yes, I know how to clear the nozzle and pull it off and soak in solvent to unplug it, but why in hell should I have to do that. When I buy a can of paint I mark it with the date so I know how old the paint is. I have some cheap hardware store brands in the cabinet that are 6-7 years old and still work fine.

The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers. They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don’t clog up.

Doubt if this helped you much but it let me unload on something that has been p-----g me off for a long while.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Ironically I moved away from some cheap spray paints that work well but the colours are limited.

The Rustoleum paints had the colours that I wanted to use which is why I bought them.

#4

Rick Marty said:

Yea, Rust-Oleum paints, in my opinion, are pretty crappy for model work especially the 2X stuff. Sure it works great on Patio furniture but puts out way too much paint for model work. Kyrlon is not any better in there 2X spray, again just too much paint coming out of the nozzle for model work. I have been moving toward cheap store brands, because they skimp on the paint pigment and you get a finer/lighter coat of paint.

If it says wait 48 hours before re-coat then wait 48 hours, better yet wait 60 hours depending on temp and humidity.

I have almost given up on Ripoff-Oleums paints. In the past couple of years I have probably returned 20 cans to Home Depot because they quit spraying after a single use and sit on the shelf for a month or two. Yes, I know how to clear the nozzle and pull it off and soak in solvent to unplug it, but why in hell should I have to do that. When I buy a can of paint I mark it with the date so I know how old the paint is. I have some cheap hardware store brands in the cabinet that are 6-7 years old and still work fine.

The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers. They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don’t clog up.

Doubt if this helped you much but it let me unload on something that has been p-----g me off for a long while.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

I have thrown out several cans of Rustolium, It doesn’t matter how much I shake them. I even tried shaking them between passes when spraying, but they still clog up on me, sometimes in the middle of my first use of a can. I prefer Krylon, I very seldom have issues with Krylon. As for a second coat, I usually apply a second coat within an hour of the first coat. If I am masking off an applying a second colour, then I do wait 2 days at a minimum before applying the second coat. Also, I make sure and apply thin coats so they can dry all the way through. A thick coat will not dry as fast, and will react to the next coat of paint if its applied too soon.

As for the cheaper off brands, I have used some that work well, and I have used some that, well, just don’t cover, or don’t give a nice even coat of paint.

#5

One of the things I dislike about rustoleum spray bombs is that you can no longer turn the can upside down to clear the nozzle before storing. I used to use cans of black and white to do my airbrake stenciling on passenger cars. I would use a small amount of paint then store. every time the nozzles were plugged the next time out. I did send a note to rustoleum and they did send me a bag of nozzles.

Still using an airbrush

Al P.

#6

FWIW, I try to never use spray can paint if the can is cold (define that as you like). I have even put spray cans in slightly warm water from the sink to warm them up.

I found that this would improve the spray pattern, making it finer for model / weathering, but you still do run the risk of little dots instead of a nice fine mist.

Jerry

#7

Jerry Bohlander said:

FWIW, I try to never use spray can paint if the can is cold (define that as you like). I have even put spray cans in slightly warm water from the sink to warm them up.

I found that this would improve the spray pattern, making it finer for model / weathering, but you still do run the risk of little dots instead of a nice fine mist.

Jerry

Quite true, I do the same, either set the can in a hot water bath or warm them on the oil fill heater for 15-20 min before use, makes a nice smooth spray and seems to help with the pressure as well. But it still doesn’t stop the cans from plugging up.

#8

I’ve seen Bruce Willis clear them up by putting them in a Microwave.

#9

The majority of spray can paints on the market today also have mixed in primer which adds an extra layer of paint and will hide some fine detail, I have found that most, up until now, Krylon paint doesn’t and you can also find good fine mist spray paints at automotive paint stores which spray much finer

#10

The exception to my dislike of their paints is the automotive primers. They go on smooth and dry exceptionally fast and can be top coated within 15 minutes even in high humidity conditions and the damn nozzles don’t clog up.

I like the primers - regular or automotive, Rust-o or Krylon. They seem to produce a nice smooth base for a regular satin or gloss paint.

I don’t seem to get clogs with either. I turn them upside down and spray, and then wipe the nozzle. Maybe the wipe takes out most of the stuff that would clog.

#11

Al Pomeroy said:

One of the things I dislike about rustoleum spray bombs is that you can no longer turn the can upside down to clear the nozzle before storing. I used to use cans of black and white to do my airbrake stenciling on passenger cars. I would use a small amount of paint then store. every time the nozzles were plugged the next time out. I did send a note to rustoleum and they did send me a bag of nozzles.

Still using an airbrush

Al P.

Glad it wasn’t just my imagination, sheesh! Last weekend I was determined to go thru my spray can stock and clean the nozzles. I did; but some cans – R’em’s – clogged right back up. These aren’t that old, and are at ~70 temp. And like you say Al, those larger white nozzles won’t clear when you turn it upside down.

This thread has me thinking, thanks guys.

#12

This just in from Rust-Oleum technical support.

Second coat to be applied within about 20 minutes or it will crinkle, the solvents will react with the enamel term used was "fries the bottom layer".

Advice was to wait 7 days then give the paint a light sand to get rid of the crinkle then-re spray.

As I have stripped it back down to the base plastic I will try the 20 minute re coat, to do another colour next to it I will have to wait 7 days to avoid the crinkle at the overlap.

Or try something else might go to the paint store down the road and have a chat to them.

#13

I have onee can with the fancy trigger operated top…boy is that a pain to use. You have to squeeze with all your strength to get a spray. Often kinda splattery too!

I have also had cans clog internally, no way to clear them! Dead!

I hate them but can get decent results at least some times. I also spray some into their cap and use a brush for ttouch ups or detail bits.

#14

Eric I agree they are a POS the trigger is awful

#15

My problem with 20 minutes is I’m still painting the first coat … awk!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)

#16

Seriously, if you pull the spray top out, at the base of the stem, you will see a slot. I have had some success clearing that slot and making it a little wider. I don’t know why it works, but it does.

#17

Lou Luczu said:

Seriously, if you pull the spray top out, at the base of the stem, you will see a slot. I have had some success clearing that slot and making it a little wider. I don’t know why it works, but it does.

That’s worth a look, thanks.

Lately I have just been pulling the tops and dropping them in a jar of Mineral Spirits when not in use.

#18

I have cleaned the slot, cleaned the nozzles, heated the cans in warm water, and the darn Rustoleum rattle cans still clog on me. For me the clog is internal to the can. For one colour I really wanted, I ended up opening the can, outside with goggles on, and used the paint in my airbrush.

I have come to realize that some things work differently at my house, then it does for other people. Some folks have very good luck with Rustoleum, but I haven’t.

#19

“It’s not you, it’s them” - just saw this involving Rustoleum 2X over at The Rocketry Forum, https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/paint-job-gone-wrong.159049/#post-1990879

#20

I went to a local paint shop and talked to the bloke there and told him my problem he said that all enamel paints will do that is they are not fully “cured” he suggested I may more success if I left the paint to cure for at least a week or maybe more.

Evidently paint can be dry to touch but underneath the surface it is still wet and it is that layer which reacts with the new coat.

One interesting thing the bloke showed me is a device that turns a small bottle into a spray pack, it has refills of propellant and extra bottles, the initial setup was around $35. The paint shop can mix any colour for me to put in the bottles.

https://preval.com/all-products/
I am seriously considering it as compared to the 2 Rust-Oleum which cost me $33 it may be a good buy and because I only do small paint jobs anyway so this “touchup” system may be an answer.

The other option I have is to use artist acrylics dissolved in lacquer thinner ans use my airbrush, I did this on a loco and the paint job is well over 5 years old and showing no sign of deterioration.

End result Rust-Oleum is I consider utter crap and I will never use it again.