Mark should be the engineer then! Get to molding Ray!
2 many “M’s” thanks for clearing that up!
again, Mark, Welcome…don’t think we can have too many Dunakins around here!
cale older brother of Marc!
C. Nelson said:We done got more kin to Dunakin!
.don't think we can have too many Dunakins around here!
N&W did have dual control stands on their GP9s not sure bout the RS3s…Interstate RR RS3s had dual controls though…
C. Nelson said:
2 many "M's" :) thanks for clearing that up!again, Mark, Welcome…don’t think we can have too many Dunakins around here!
Thanx all for the Welcome and I look forward to viewing not only Ray’s updates and other projects, but to see what others here can do too
BTW, if any of you here have some generic “decently detailed” diagrams, drawings, fotos or other such relative things like that showing the
side working parts for a steam engine that would look either like this one, or close to it, please let me know?
Cuz I would some day like to be able to finish my 3D steam engine that I started on back on `05 and have been stuck at the point where
I really can’t move any further on the modeling, simply because I have no other references of what the rest of the drive workings all look like.
Here is a couple of links to let you see the WIP of it and you will see where I am stuck.
http://www.md-arts.com/galleries/lw_renders/slides/Engine_NonTextured_02.html
http://www.md-arts.com/galleries/lw_renders/slides/Engine_NonTextured_01.html
I was working from one of Ray’s model rail roading mags that had a basic diagram of the engine,
but, sadly not quite all the details for me to ever finish the thing for all the working drive train/rod parts.
And yes, it started out as a narrow gauge, since that is what Ray was into.
thanx again for the kind welcomes…md 
Hey, Mark, get this book, Model Railroader Cyclopedia, Volume 1: Steam Locomotives 01001 $49.95 http://www.kalmbachstore.com/01001.html
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/HO%20Trains/IMG_5404.jpg)
Thanx and that would be a lot more awesome, but, uhh… 50 bucks for me right now is just not in any future plans LOL
I was more hoping there might be some free blue print type sites or something like that or if someone out there already had a decent selection of said materials?
I’ve been to a few e print type sites, but sadly, 99% of them are always just lame autos and fighter jets and space ships and the like hahaha
Trying to find more then just one or two steam engine blue print type images to work from so far has been near impossible and I’ve been searching for several years now.
Oh, and thanx loads for that really fast reply, wowsers!
EDIT: oh, and I forgot to mention, that I’ve been through Google Images a few times now too about every once or twice a year, just to see IF they have anything newer then the last times I checked.
…md
Any odd chance public library might have this; or be able to get inter-library loan?
There are a couple decisions to make at this point - primary one being whether to go with inside or outside valve motion. At this point drawing is set up to head for the outside setup.
But outside motion usually involved replacement of flat square valve chests on top of cylinders with round piston valves.
This might be a page worth looking at. http://www.steamlocomotive.com/appliances/valvegear.php
Gonna start a new thread on here for ya Mark.
Don’t know for sure it will be exactly what you are after, but, hey, worth a try, eh 
Nice build Mark.
He he he …Marks jackin’ up Ray’s thread!
David Russell said:Yeah, sorry 'bout that, wasn't really meaning to do that, but I did realize that later on, but was hoping it wouldn't be a big deal, and might just get some tips to send me else where? :)
He he he ...Marks jackin' up Ray's thread! ;)
said:Anyway, thanx tons for the help and info and I'll look into the newly started thread.
Gonna start a new thread on here for ya Mark. Don't know for sure it will be exactly what you are after, but, hey, worth a try, eh big_smile
And Ray, this IS a high jacking, er, train robbery hehehehe LOL
…md
Mark Dunakin said:David Russell said:Yeah, sorry 'bout that, wasn't really meaning to do that, but I did realize that later on, but was hoping it wouldn't be a big deal, and might just get some tips to send me else where? :)
He he he ...Marks jackin' up Ray's thread! ;)said:Anyway, thanx tons for the help and info and I'll look into the newly started thread.
Gonna start a new thread on here for ya Mark. Don't know for sure it will be exactly what you are after, but, hey, worth a try, eh big_smileAnd Ray, this IS a high jacking, er, train robbery hehehehe LOL
…md
EDIT: Wow!, Ray just sent me some fairly decent images of real engines and I think they will help me get a lot further along now.
Thanx tons Ray!
Forrest Scott Wood said:
Any odd chance public library might have this; or be able to get inter-library loan?There are a couple decisions to make at this point - primary one being whether to go with inside or outside valve motion.
At this point drawing is set up to head for the outside setup.
But outside motion usually involved replacement of flat square valve chests on top of cylinders with round piston valves.This might be a page worth looking at. http://www.steamlocomotive.com/appliances/valvegear.php
Just as a note, I know about the motions and all that, I even already have that part animated for my engine in 3D, I just don’t
know what the actual parts “look” like, that was why I was asking here in this modeling forum, cuz I was hoping someone might have
actual fotos that would help me to finish the model, but agree about that I should of started a new thread, so my apologies on that
My diagrams that I modeled from are incomplete, so I can sort of tell what is what, just now in detail was all.
My ref drawings came straight from Ray’s narrow gauge modeling mags, and you all know how those can be a bit incomplete sometimes.
Anyway, thanx much guys…md
P.S. I’ll get a new thread going for this, if that is allowed here?
I just ran out of places to search was all… Googled this and that and so on with little to no decent results.
I’ll look into the Library too.
Finally, another update! One of my biggest concerns when I started this project, was how to do the handrail supports. They need to be tough and rigid, slightly flexible but not brittle, and they need to be removable. I also wanted them to be as close to the prototype as possible. I considered using brass rod, but it’s round, and the real thing is made of flat slabs. Brass bar stock might work but is not easy to find in such a small size. Brass would also be tough to work with, especially drilling the holes for the handrails to run through. And brass doesn’t spring back if it gets bent over. Then I hit on a solution: Rectangular carbon fiber rod! These are sold by Midwest Products and can be found in many hobby shops, in a variety of sizes. It’s a high strength composite material used in aircraft. It’s very rigid yet somewhat flexible, and extremely hard to break. I used some carbon fiber rod that measures .019" thick by .118" wide. As tough as it is, it can be split lengthwise, so I laminated some strips of .010" thick styrene to it. I was then able to drill holes through the supports without splitting the carbon fiber. I also added brackets and simulated bolts/nuts made of styrene. Here are some pics:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_RS3_Conversion_files/Media/IMG_1857/IMG_1857.jpg)
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_RS3_Conversion_files/Media/IMG_1862c/IMG_1862c.jpg)
The handrail supports are designed to fit into slots in the deck and frame of the engine. This presented another problem: How to create deep, narrow slots? I have no tools capable of doing that. So my solution is to drill round holes, fill them with epoxy putty, then use a homemade tool to press the slots into the putty. Here’s a photo of the tool I made, and a chunk of scrap styrene used as a test subject:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_RS3_Conversion_files/Media/IMG_1860c/IMG_1860c.jpg)
This worked just fine. The top surface of the putty came out a little rough on this test piece but I think I can do better. Most of it will be hidden by the bracket anyway. Here are a couple shots showing how the support fits into the slot on the test piece:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_RS3_Conversion_files/Media/IMG_1864c/IMG_1864c.jpg)
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_RS3_Conversion_files/Media/IMG_1866c/IMG_1866c.jpg)
Now I just have to drill holes in the deck, add the putty, and form the slots for the model itself. Meanwhile I also did a few other small things… I decided that the smokestack needed to be taller, to look right with the new larger cab, so I built up a new stack around the old one. I also created a bracket and air ringer for the bell, and made the metal “cabinets” on the deck behind the cab. I don’t have pics of these changes yet. .
Nice detail Ray. Will they just sit in place or will you secure them to the body?
They won’t be glued in, they’ll just plug into the slots.
Nice!
Looking good so far.
I want to see them ON the thing though, so hurry you butt up and get on with it, cuz I’m impatient hehehe
And isn’t this much better then me having to wait around for those once in a while email updates?
I love being able to NOW follow right along.
thanx…md
Ray,
What is the reason that you wanted the stanchions and railings to be removable?