Large Scale Central

Royally Messed Up

Modeling
#1

I am sitting in utter dismay as I contemplate how things could have gone from bad to worse…I think I may have destroyed the cab of my LGB Forney. I repainted it the other day using Rustoleum 2x Hunter Green. Yesterday I put some decals made by Stan. This morning I sprayed a light coat of Rustoleum 2x clear satin and the green paint started to buckle in places. In my haste I started to sand after things were dry to the touch and cleaned everything up and tried to put a fresh coat of hunter green on. It buckled even more. So in my stupidity I took some thinner to begin the process of removing everything…

Now it is a mess and I’ve had to walk away kicking myself…

So a couple of questions…1. If I work carefully can I restore the cab to a smooth finish and repaint? If not does anyone know where I can purchase a new replacement cab?

Thanks,

Richard

#2

I share your grief, happened to me once.

I saved my mess, let it dry, sanded it off and then read the instructions … I didn’t let Dan know, so I managed to keep my man card.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

I think today’s solvents aren’t as quick as they used to be.

#3

Seems like a place called “Only Trains” can get LGB parts…try them. But…if you do want to try cleaning up what you have…wait at least a week, to allow the thing to completely cure/dry, before sanding or working on it.

#4

I know that feeling Richard! I’d worked so hard on modifying my loco, including Stan’s decals. But I applied the clear coat with the cab’s windows in (I figured, it’s clear coat, right?). And now they’re nice, hazed, “privacy” panes of glass which you can’t see anything through.

For LGB replacement parts, the first people I’d check with is Train-Li. They don’t list the cab in their Forney section, but I’d give them a call to see if that’s available somehow.

#5

You can probably save it if you can’t replace it. As Fred stated wait at least a week or until you can’t get any whiff of paint smell from it then begin sanding with very fine paper, a lot of slow sanding.

They usually say on the cans recoat or top coat within 1 hour or wait 48 hours.

They use to say recoat anytime, better faster solvents back then, always wait 2 days or more, I learned this the same way you have.

I’m sorry about the mess but you can save it, good luck.

Oh Ya, after sanding it down use the Rustoleum Gray automotive primer, you can recoat any time and it is made for wet sanding which you shoud do a couple times after sanding the old paint down and befor applying the new color coat. Try to find paint colors that arn’t the two in one crap, paint and primer, they are too thick for model work, in my opinion.

#6

I appreciate the advice!! I’ve put it all away and will come back to it in a week or so…my has a song she sings…“be patient, be patient, don’t be in such a hurry”…I know this but sometimes forget (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)

Richard

#7

Question…the Rustoleum 2x says “Paint and Primer”…should I actually put a separate coat of primer on before applying the color coat??

Richard

#8

Try some 91% rubbing alcohol first before sanding. That should take the paint off fairly well.

#9

Richard Mynderup said:

…should I actually put a separate coat of primer on before applying the color coat??

My experience with contemporary consumer grade spray paints is that each additional layer/coat is another invitation for things to go chemically dysfunctional.

So …

Test the combination of layers on something made of the same flavor of plastic as the model part - with the Very Same Cans you are going to use to spray the model.

#10

Richard Mynderup said:

So a couple of questions… If I work carefully can I restore the cab to a smooth finish and repaint?

Thanks,

Richard

Yes,

As stated walk away…you will certainly lose the decals but let it alone. I have a love hate relationship with rattle can Rustoleum. Love their colors/ hate their dry time and finiky application. With what you have done already with rattle can Rustoleum I would let it set at least 2 weeks at 50 degrees or above with no moisture/humidity.

However I’m no expert and you can certainly purchase what you think is destroyed but I doubt it is.

Rustoleum loves lights coats with lots of dry time in between from my experience. UNLIKE what the rattle can states.

This is only my experience

#11

I second Roosters advice, another thing I have read is that dipping , actually dunking on 91% alcohol for about 24 Hours or so will loosen the paint enough to scrape it off, then follow With light coats, I was told that letting it dry at least a few days between coats is best. Good luck , oh and but a couple of gallons of the alcohol at Wal- mart, everyone say as they have the best prices

#12

I have had so much trouble with rattle can primers, I switched t Badger paint primer. I can shot it via my airbrush and it works like a charm. Is it more than a rattle can? Probably, but I get better results and don’t have to worry about these issues anymore. Just different issues…

#13

I read on a Facebook page one guy said that Krukow works a little better than Rustoleum, and Rustoleum doesn’t even work well with Rustoleum some times. It’s been my experience also

#14

I gave up on Rustolium years ago. I prefer Krylon, but it’s getting difficult to find in a good assortment around here.

#15

David from a reliable source I understand that ACE brand paint is made by Krylon and I’ve had good luck with it, Bill

#16

Yes, but the colours aren’t the same. Krylon Ruddy brown primer does pretty good (10 foot rule) for rust, but ACE ruddy brown primer is closer to terracotta then rust in colour.

#17

Richard Mynderup said:

Question…the Rustoleum 2x says “Paint and Primer”…should I actually put a separate coat of primer on before applying the color coat??

Richard

I don’t believe you need a primer coat but the 2x means it’s applying 2 times the amount of paint. I generally like to apply multiple light coats when painting models. My favorite rattle can paint is Valspar premium micro-mist. It’s discontinued but I bought up a bunch of cans. Closest thing I’ve found to an airbrush.

-Dan

#18

At work I’ve graduated from rattle cans to a High Volume Low Pressure gun system that I primarily shoot Rustoleum oil based paints thinned (per label) with Acetone. Clean up is almost an hour so I still use rattle cans for small jobs. Reading the re-coat time instructions is critical. Probably the initial problem was putting on second coat either too late or too early. Most of the Rustoleum I use says re-coat within 1 hour or after 48.

It’s not just the newer stuff. I painted a boat trailer 20 years ago with Rustoleum rattle cans and had the same issue because I put second coat on at a bad time.

I second the Krylon endorsement. Even their new formulas are OK. Locally, Lowes discontinued Valspar and brought in Krylon.

#19

Dan Gilchrist said:

Richard Mynderup said:

Question…the Rustoleum 2x says “Paint and Primer”…should I actually put a separate coat of primer on before applying the color coat??

Richard

I don’t believe you need a primer coat

He doesn’t as stated .

#20

Ahhh yes the rattle can game begins. I’ll take "Dry Time " for $100 Alex