I just couldn’t stand walking (or rolling a train past) what is supposed to be a broken or dynamited slope, with rocks measuring more than 5 scale feet, it was just plain bothersome. Since I have such a large amount of surface area to cover, I had to come up with a different plan of attack. I took a few 2X4s and ripped them down to 1/2 inch squares, and then cut those in random lengths between 3 and 6 inches. Once attached to several lengths of 2X6, it was only right to get pictures posted. The mold is just over 3 feet long and 20 inches high. The area in the pics below definitely required some help. Of course this is not the finished product. I am going to eventually have a red/sandstone color of paint on them to resemble the area I iam modelling. On with the pics, since they tell the story better than I can type it.
Don, that looks quite impressive… wonderful work…
Thanks Andy. It took a couple of hours to get the mold as I wanted, but the time saved outside, and the pain of carving and crawling around makes it a good investment in time.
Great implementation of a neat idea, Don. I really like how that boxcar looks in that cut.
Thanks Bruce. I see some of your modelling and know my work is mediocre compared to you and some of the others on this site. Thought I woudl shere the idea just the same.
Nice work Don.
That’s pretty nifty. And I’m with Bruce, the boxcar shot is great!
Thanks Guys. I had to put something in a picture so the size of the ‘rocks’ could be seen, and thought that a bachmann boxcar and flatcar was something that would do the trick.
And a few updated pics. I made a bit of progress this evening. Basically completed 'nother 15 linear feet of this. I almost wish I had another full set of these molds. they are turning out to be incredibly easy to use, and a second set would keep me from sitting around waiting for the stucco to set.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/don_pearson/_forumfiles/DSCF2348.JPG)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/don_pearson/_forumfiles/DSCF2350.JPG)
I have the color of paint I was looking for to finish these, but still have tons to do before the color goes on. I tunnel is in the works as well as a taller rang of hills for visual separation purposes.
Don,
That is looking fantastic.
Ralph
Explain the stucco a bit … what is the actual material and process you’re using over the wood and screen?
That really looks great Don. I’ll be interested to see how it holds up over time. Do you have cold winters where you are?
Matt,
Stucco is a material that is Cement-based , but has a bit of a different chemical make up. It is mixed with sand (I prefer a more course sand than most. It tends to be a much lighter weight than concrete.
The screen acts as a method of keeping the amount used minimal. I needs to be said that it WILL EXPAND AND CONTRACT WITH TEMPERATURE CHANGES!!!.
When used on houses, expansion joints are put in every 6 to 8 feet vertically, and 8 feet horizontally. Because of the distance vertically I have no concern for cracking that way, but know that it will have ‘fault lines’ vertically because of the horizontal expansion and contraction. Since this is expected, I leave an overlap at 45 degrees in places that are less visible, so when these joint do what nature makes them do, it does not damage the larger portions. I have layed heavy plastic in some of the joint areas of the longer sections so that the expansion and contraction will be more apt to slide rather than create cracks. Since none of these sections are more than 6 feet long and 2 feet tall, large cracks are not an issue.
Jon,
We are at 4375 feet above sea level, and although summer time temperature can get over 100 between noon and 5 PM, nights are in the 70’s. Winters are usually mild with lows at night in the teens at the worst, but less than a month of daytime temperatures below freezing. Usually it gets up in the 60’s in the afternoons.
Normal humidity levels are in the teens, this being more than 9 months of the year.
This seems mild but most standards, but the drastic temperature changes of sometimes more than 40 degrees require more consideration for expansion and contraction issues than other climates.
And one other consideration: a crack in a rock wall is quite natural, so controlling where it cracks is the best way to maintain a level of managability in this process.
Once it is cured it does need to be washed of several times before painting. This is due to the lime content which leaches to the surface when mosture is present. If not washed properly, paint will peel off in a matter of weeks. However, if it is cleaned well and a good quality latex paint is used, these expainsion joints and other problematic areas will simply let the paint go in a small area and flex without ever turning loose at all.
I have seen this process used on some pretty big ‘mountains’ that started as stacks of concrete blocks and ended up being huge waterfalls and the like. Very light weight, very fast construction and above all (this being my personal favorite) when installed over hard packed dirt, with steel rods in the ground for structural reasons, NO WEEDS OR GRASS TO DEAL WITH!!!
I have several areas that will be first poured as concrete planter boxes for lack of a better way to explain. These will be in mountain sides and such. Once cured the stucco mold process will cover the lower side of the hill. I can then plant sedum, dwarf trees, and not worry about growth that I just don’t want.
Hopefully I answered all of tyhe questions. I’ll post more as progress comes along
Thanks Don. I was thinking of the many freeze-thaw cycles we get here during a Connecticut winter. It wrecks havoc with any masonry that has places for water to enter. My flagstone walks are a constant maintenance battle.
It sounds like you have taken many factors into consideration. It really looks great.
Thanks Jon.
What we do have here is our ‘Monsoon’ season, where we get 90% of our rainfallin a 6 week window. VERY wet weather, so even though it is a desert climate, drainage better be a consideration for success. I have sloped specific areas to channel water away from what could be a problem area, as well as filled in behind the screened area with dirt to simply alleviate any possibility of critter inhabitation of a spot for water to move into.
Once all of these are taken into consideration I can not fathom why this would not work in a colder climate, and help avoid weed issues
Dear Don, Nice Job. Dear All, Optical Delusion time again. (Sorry.) I was startled to see about 20 miniature “Men in Black” (or is it “Blues Brothers”?) milling about the hillside in this photo:
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/don_pearson/_forumfiles/DSCF2225.JPG)
The shadows from the tree leaves look like dark suits. Look for the light colored triangles with horizontal tops. To me these look like faces under the brim of a dark hat. There are some tiny light specs in the shadows on the lower left side of the formation. To me these look like hands sticking out of the sleeves of the dark suits… (Roll “Twilight Zone” theme song.) Have fun. Tony W, you’re exempt, you don’t have to do this. Sincerely, Joe Satnik
Jon Radder said:Agreed!! Very cool Don!
It sounds like you have taken many factors into consideration. It really looks great.
Joe, I might be in Tony’s camp as well, what kinda stuff doyou guys drink in Kalifornia?
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/don_pearson/_forumfiles/DSCF2225.JPG)
Daahhh…Like you don’t see Elvis, Hitler and “Tricky Dick” (Nixon) sipping tea “pinky finger raised”…on the beach of Argentina? I see it!
Wine coolers in CA. Leinies here.
Joe