Hello,
What do any of you use for making rivet detail in plastic sheets for something like a tender wrap large scale?
Bill
What I have used is the reverse end of the correct size drill bit, chucked in the drill press and the depth gauge set for depth and press the bit into the sheet while it is resting on a thick magazine or catalog. Use a magazine you don’t want because it messes it up pretty good. Takes some time to get the depth/pressure adjusted just right but gives pretty good results.
You can also make a bed from metal plate that your bit can press into but this takes a lot more precision and layout but does give crisper edges to the embossing.
or you could do the “real” thing: bore holes and set pins. (like in this unfinished tender)
https://www.trainmastermodels.com/Aluminum-Handle-Pounce-Wheel-Carded-With-1-4-Tip-p/exl30606.htm
Pounce wheels come in different sizes. I use the middle one above and get an 1 1/2" spacing in 1/29
YMMV (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
8d and 4d finish nails ( with the tip slightly dulled/flattened) in a pin vise or mini drill chuck. I also have a set of metal picks that I use.
Bill Iwan said:
Hello,
What do any of you use for making rivet detail in plastic sheets for something like a tender wrap large scale?
Bill
Wow. Great and TIMELESS question!
So many ways to do this, but the question is what LOOK to YOU want?
I think I have tried them all. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
There’s the tracing wheel look. Sort of “understated” but looks good and is one of the “easier” methods. I used that on my boxcab build.
There’s the this sounds EASY but is OH SO TEDIOUS method of cutting small discs from styrene rod, dipping them in cement and placing them. I did that on the boiler of my 10 wheeler.
If you are looking more for the “nut bolt” look, you can get castings from many different suppliers. (This was my 10 wheeler again)
Hi Bruce,
All of them look amazing. Now Im not sure which one to use. I really like the tender ones but I don’t know If I have enough patients for one at a time. Thinking I may go with the tracing wheel. Thanks for your help.
Bill
Bill Iwan said:
Hi Bruce,
All of them look amazing. Now Im not sure which one to use. I really like the tender ones but I don’t know If I have enough patients for one at a time. Thinking I may go with the tracing wheel. Thanks for your help.
Bill
If you like that look, you might want to consider Rooster’s method above. It’s a LOT cheaper.
I use 1/2 flat sided beads from the internet and although a little large at 2mm seem too work fine and stand out great on PVC easy to mount and take paint well
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I use 1/2 flat sided beads from the internet and although a little large at 2mm seem too work fine and stand out great on PVC easy to mount and take paint well
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THAT’S a NEAT idea, Bill. I looked around but could NOT find any that were tiny (like around .5 to 1.0 mm) I suspect that would be tedious as well, though you could at least use a steel ruler to keep them in line.
Edit: Spelling counts! (as does grammar!)
Yes Bruce you are correct the smallest that I have found is 2mm which granted is large but works great for 10 foot rule and a little spray paint they seem to fit in, for alignment I use Mirce rivets that come from Russia and take for ever to get, The only problem with them is that they are flat rivets which are designed for airplanes but sure make it easy to apply I use them for the straight lines and then place the plastic beads on top, I don’t mind them being over size as it makes them bigger and more visible, Bill (https://i.pinimg.com/564x/fc/65/65/fc656588980b8dd8070a25a958a770e2.jpg)
