may i ask, how you fix the lead to the plastics of the model?
glue (wich one) only? or screws?
before glueing, do you scrape off the lead-oxyd?
(i got some leftover lead from roofing, but no idea, how to use)
Korm,
I use E6000 adhesive, works well but takes a few hours to cure/dry.
I score the lead in a cross hatch pattern with a hobby knife to give
the glue a better bite. It sticks fine to the plastic but doesn’t hurt to also score it.
Lead sheet here is produced/sold by the “pounds per square foot”, 2 lb and 4 lb being the most common weights.
I use the 2lb because it is easier to cut and shape, besides that’s what I have on hand.
I’ve used hot glue in locomotives to hold weight and other things in place that will not be seen. The advantage is it can easily be removed with some heat. The small hobby glue guns aren’t hot enough, Get a professional one with the long glue sticks.
E6000 is a great general purpose glue. It’s easy to clean up seepage after it’s cured for a half hour or so. Just rolls right off!
thank you. cutting a pattern makes sense to me.
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A week gone already, wow.
A little progress to show for tonight.
I think I have finally finished all the modifications to the chassis itself now to just build the new locomotive.
I checked a 10 wheeler and it weighs 5 pounds 13 ounces without tender and I now have my modification up to 5 pounds 3 ounces with all the added weight. It should come in really close by the time I get the build complete.
The base of the fuel tank/speaker enclosure/lead weight containment box. The sleepers in the speaker opening will be cut out before installation.
I found a Mack truck rear end and other needed parts in the supplies so decided to go with it. From the proto pictures it is pretty difficult to tell just how the drive gear system was actually set up.
Only a hundred more pieces to build, no problem 
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Curious, you are putting a speaker in it, what are you going to do for sound?
I guess I forgot to mention that this will be pulling my rail truck trail car with Phoenix sound.
I have 4 different covers for the trail car but none of them really fit with this build, have to build
another one that is a better fit for this rolling junk pile.
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That rig is really going to be something… 
I like the big headlight addition.
A little bit more done today,
I decided to ditch the Mack truck rear end and go back to plan A more about that later.
For now I got the timbers and tiedown rods finished for the tank mounting.
Cutting threads on .063 rod for 1-72 nuts is tricky at best.
Surprisingly they all came out right the first try
The tank finished , installed and ready for painting.
More to come.
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Rick, there are a lot of great modelers on LSC. But you threading rod just warms my heart. I was just thinking about the 2026 MIK ( 
) and I need to invest on a couple hundred dollars in plastic, wood, and micro fasteners. You do such a great job of turning bits and pieces into detail parts. Something as simple as threading rod just makes it a great build.
Use cutting oil. It keeps the die from galling up. Unlike steel, when cutting treads on soft metal, don’t back the die up to break the cut. Keep going forward until you reach the length you want. I start the cut dry to get a bite, then oil as you go.
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My inspiration this year. Beautiful work Rick.
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Another great reason to tune into the MIK builds… mini-masterclasses and great tips!
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