Large Scale Central

Revive a 3 year old MIK build thread, or start fresh?

Modeling
#1

Last week I purchased a well loved MicroMark mini table saw from Craig Townsend. Several months ago I also purchased a large stock of Fn3 scale lumber from Stan Ames. I’m thinking that these two impulse purchases need to have a purpose, so I began thinking about what I should build using the wood and the newly acquired saw. Then it hit me…

In 2017, the Annual Mik Challenge was based on Taylor Block. I entered with a plan to build an indoor flat freight house for one of my industrial tracks. I made good progress at first, but got hung up with windows and doors that I wanted to have milled at work on our CNC router. For numerous reasons, that never happened, so the entry was never finished. This seems to be pretty typical of my Mik performance. I have about a 50% completion rate.

It dawned on me, that with all this nice scale wood and a mini saw, I should be able to fabricate the doors and windows from wood strips glued to clear acrylic. There is also a plan for a roof over the loading doors which would be wood framed with a corrugated tin (Taylor Tin) roof that needs fabrication. So, on rainy days and evenings over the next weeks or months I’ll attempt to actually get this project finished.

So, should I resurrect the ancient build thread ( Link Here ), or start a new build thread, bringing forward some of the plans and photos?

#2

Personally, I’d love to see you resurrect your old thread. It would be very satisfying to me to see your continuity on progress on that project.

I’m definitely resurrecting mine from last year (http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/30147/2020-challenge-john-passaro-s-signal-tower) when I get back to it.

Be my inspiration, Jon!!!

#3

I’m in the ‘resurrect the old thread’ camp, too. I have no idea why doing that gets some people all worked up.

#4

So you’re saying I could finally finish something I started?

#5

Your call in the end Jon, but I think by bringing back the original thread you could bring us all up to speed on your project much quicker and easier.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#6

It is time to resurrect this and get it done before the next Challenge! It should go fast!

#7

OK, I’ll update the original as soon as I have something to report.

Tore down the saw for a good cleaning then did a few test cuts. It’s pretty clear that I will need to build some jigs, and maybe rig a feather board for production cuts of window mullions. I also need to invest in some new blades.

Thanks for you opinions!

#8

All stocked up on coke and Popcorn, Jon, waiting for the resurrection.

#9

Either way , I had my 2017 entry out on the layout last week and it looks bad, glued parts are falling off and General deterioration have taken a toll on it and it really need some work on it, plus it was my first scratch built structure. So I may join you in finishing/ repairing the 2017 fun

#10

Jon Radder said:

OK, I’ll update the original as soon as I have something to report.

Tore down the saw for a good cleaning then did a few test cuts. It’s pretty clear that I will need to build some jigs, and maybe rig a feather board for production cuts of window mullions. I also need to invest in some new blades.

Thanks for you opinions!

Jon,

One accessory that I really like is the Featherboard and Fence Set. OK, the featherboards are nice, but the fence allows me to make nice, accurate strips. It’s what I used when I made my ET&WNC hoppers - to get the wood to the dimension I wanted.

#11

I don’t think that will fit the saw Bruce. But a good fence and feather boards are super helpful.

#12

Craig is correct. That one is for the #80463 MicroLux® Tilting Arbor Table Saw only.

The one he sold me is the older, more basic saw. It has a “fence” guide, but only about 1/4" tall. There ss a slot too, but on the other side of the blade. I’ll need to roll my own I’m afraid. I have plenty of small pieces of square aluminum tube and I’m not afraid to drill and tap the aluminum table if I need to.

#13

Jon Radder said:

Craig is correct. That one is for the #80463 MicroLux® Tilting Arbor Table Saw only.

The one he sold me is the older, more basic saw. It has a “fence” guide, but only about 1/4" tall. There ss a slot too, but on the other side of the blade. I’ll need to roll my own I’m afraid. I have plenty of small pieces of square aluminum tube and I’m not afraid to drill and tap the aluminum table if I need to.

Sorry about that! The problem I had with the original fence was that it would NOT stay in the spot I tightened it to - which made cutting similar strips rather problematic. Sounds like you have some good ideas going forward.

#14

My solution was to clamp a steel ruler to the shorter fence… It worked, but I finally bit the bullet and upgraded to a Brynes saw. I hope Jon gets as many years of enjoyment as I got. And still has 10 fingers.

#15

Just a FYI for anyone else with the older Micro Mark saw. It appears that this saw is identical to the Proxon saw. Amazon carries Proxon blades that are the same tooth count, diameter and arbor size as the Micro Mark site, for about half the price and Prime shipping. I ordered a 100 Tooth fine cut and a 20 tooth carbide tipped blade late last week. Both shipped yesterday and the 100 tooth arrived today. The 20 tooth is not due until 11/5. It must be coming from overseas! The 100 Tooth is made in Czech Republic.