I plan to get a resistance soldering setup. Micro Mark has a good sale on right now, with 20% off. Several types of tips are offered, single tip, tweezer tip and plier tips. I’ll be doing a brass locomotive kit and wondered which tip is the best to have to do most of the work. I would appreciate any input/advice.
Senor Jerry…
I have the tweezer and single tip—never tried the plier which seemed pretty bulky. Resistance soldering is like using an airbrush — at first it seems stupidly impossible, then, with a little experience, you wonder how you ever did without it. With care, it eliminates that delightful experience of watching the parts you already soldered drip off as you work 6" away. I started with the tweezer, and find myself using it most of the time-- the more versatile of the two tips. The single tip works great, but sometimes you don’t have a ready spot/righteous conductivity for the clip lead. So, all things being equal with the most uses for the $, I’d get the tweezer.
My only concern is that you will use a single tip somewhere and curse me like some vile cockroach for steering you wrong…
j
Thanks John E., and I’m sure all will be forgiven… Your experience much appreciated. Good question, Jerry. I’m drooling over that same item… :rolleyes: 
Jerry,
Yes to all three. As John eluded to, each has it’s purpose, although I agree, if you can only get one, get the tweezers.
bob c.
Jerry Barnes said:Which one are you looking at? I see several on sale.
I plan to get a resistance soldering setup. Micro Mark has a good sale on right now, with 20% off. Several types of tips are offered, single tip, tweezer tip and plier tips. I'll be doing a brass locomotive kit and wondered which tip is the best to have to do most of the work. I would appreciate any input/advice.
Jerry,
What scale are you working in? The 100 W American Beauty unit is good for HO-O scale. I would go with the 250w unit for any large scale work. more expensive, but you want to heat the joint quickly and turn off. the advantage being that you hold while the joint cools. I have one of the PBL hotip units (older unit-do not know wattage) and I find there are some jobs I cannot do on large scale brass.
Al Pomeroy said:
Jerry,What scale are you working in? The 100 W American Beauty unit is good for HO-O scale. I would go with the 250w unit for any large scale work. more expensive, but you want to heat the joint quickly and turn off. the advantage being that you hold while the joint cools. I have one of the PBL hotip units (older unit-do not know wattage) and I find there are some jobs I cannot do on large scale brass.
Good advice.
Thanks guys, looks like I should go with the 250 watt and the tweezers. THanks for the input.
At those prices, I could only afford one tip, and hope for getting one more next year, if I don’t buy one of Botchman’s new passenger cars… 
Steve Featherkile said:Steve: Make yr own for $5.00 : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685061
At those prices, I could only afford one tip, and hope for getting one more next year, if I don't buy one of Botchman's new passenger cars... :P
Here’s more on a homemade job, Steve. This puppy would be adequate, for sure…
http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/displayForumTopic/content/4527055146435120
John Le Forestier said:Yep I've been working on building mine for a while. Once you get the right parts it works. I just have to wire in a dimmer switch to control the unit and it should work fine. Not as nice looking as the professional stuff, but it works! Try looking at a estate sales too. I've heard they are great for finding tools.Steve Featherkile said:Steve: Make yr own for $5.00 : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685061
At those prices, I could only afford one tip, and hope for getting one more next year, if I don't buy one of Botchman's new passenger cars... :P
Craig
Edit: Welding Supply stores have carbon rods for sale. I bought a pack of 50 for $20. They break easy so it’s good to have a few extra around when you are trying to build it.