Is resistance soldering the best method for soldering track jumper wires?
First, what is “resistance soldering” as opposed to using a Weller 250 watt soldering gun?
Second, any benefits to either method?
Thanks,
Wendell
Wnndell,
Resistance soldering is simply using the components, ie. the track and wire, to cause a short circuit which causes heat - very quickly. The soldering tip on a soldering iron is the short circuit. Depending on the wattage of the device determines the temperature and how fast it heats up. Resistance soldering rail and wire will take some practice as the rail is considerably heavier than the wire and will heat slower. In my opinion, for that type of work a resistance soldering system would be superior for two reasons. First the faster heat will generate less heat traveling down the rail from the spot of soldering to an adjacent tie strip and melting ties strip. Second, the higher zoned heat will give a better solder joint with less chance of field failure.
The method I will use will be to make a loop of the wire to allow the expansion and contraction and not stress the solder joint. I would use stranded wire and only tin the ends, allowing the middle to remain flexible. Tinning the wire will also make for a faster solder joint, again minimizing heat travel. Use a good quality solder paste and solder, it will pay off in the long run.
My tuppence worth.
Bob C.
Bob-
Thanks for the data.
Any readers favor a particular brand of equipment and a source?
Miller makes good stuff, look to buy a used machine.
You can also try to build your own, there are some plans out there.
Greg
Wendell,
If your soldering jumper wires on brass rail you don’t need to invest in a resistance soldering unit!
Do not waste your time or money trying to use a soldering “GUN” no matter what the wattage, they are not for
use on anything bigger than about 14 gauge wire. They cannot mass enough heat to transfer to the work to melt the solder.
You can solder jumper wires quick and easy to code 250 or 332 brass with a 40 watt iron from Kmart.
As in most things the route to success in soldering is in know how and preparation not in how much power
can be brought to bear.
Later
Rick
But I still like my 200 watt American Beaty Iron. Get it out now and then to do the difficult ones!
Paul
Paul-
Is the American Beaty (Beauty?) iron equipped with a wide tip which transfers more heat faster? The Weller 250 gun does take time to heat the rail – and requires cleaning of the tips “prongs” that protrude into the gun to ensure electrical transfer. If the 200 iron works faster, I’m interested. Where is it sold? However, is the resistance mechanism THE faster method? I have a lot of track that needs redoing.
Thanks for the input.
Wendell
Yes, the resistance solderer will heat basically along the electrical path, so you can concentrate the heat there, and it is faster.
American Beauty makes good stuff, and you can buy a nice large chisel tip to transfer heat faster as you clearly understand.
The old style “guns” can be basically set up as resistance solderers too, another angle.
If you have a lot of soldering I’d consider buying a resistance solderer, look for a used one, nowadays deals are to be found.
Regards, Greg
Resistance soldering is probably overkill for jumpers. You can do that more efficiently with a lot less power.
But for heavy duty soldering of rail, resistance soldering is the way to go.
I kinda figure that since this thread was inactive since last October, that Wendell got his answer.
But, resistance soldering is NOT overkill for jumpers, the advantage is no heating and melting of the ties by concentrating the heat only where you need it.
By the virtue that you are soldering to a big chunk of metal, for many people, it might be the only way they could solder without melting the ties.
The only negative I see is cost to get a resistance machine… maybe you are equating “overkill” with “spending money”? (our club has one that the members share)
Greg