I want to remotor an early Bug Mauler with one of the $50.00 chassis. Botchman says to match the number on my Bug Mauler with the new chassis. Of course, there is no match.
Question: Does it really matter? Can I just pick the coolest chassis and marry it to my Bug Mauler and be happy, or is there some super secret code that must be mastered, first?
Go ahead, Steve…the $50 replacement will probably fit…if it doesn’t, it can be made to fit…
Fred
You’ll need to cut down the air tanks on the sides by about 1/4" to clear the larger cylinders.
In addition, the new chassis will need holes drilled for the front handrails to go into the pilot (Bachmann went to a slightly more prototypical design on the newer locos which doesn’t involve sticking a 6" diameter metal rod through the pilot).
Should plug right in other than that; you will have an extra switch for direction (track polarity) that you can either set to what you want and tuck inside, or cut a custom hole for it inside the smokebox door. You’ll also need to wire the headlight in and the smoke unit if you really want it. I didn’t.
I’m in the process of rewiring my second chassis conversation to battery power and can potentially take some pics if that’d help.
Robbie, pics would be great.
There’s only one of the $50.00 chassis left, the others are sold out. Go figure… I guess that’s the one I’ll use.
Steve,
Ther are 2 of the $50 chassis on B-manns site. Ch81097 simplified valve gear and CH81092 full valve gear. If you click on the page to look at the chassis and go back they all change each time you go back to look.
Chuck
Chuck Cole said:
Steve,
Ther are 2 of the $50 chassis on B-manns site. Ch81097 simplified valve gear and CH81092 full valve gear. If you click on the page to look at the chassis and go back they all change each time you go back to look.
Chuck
Weird. I just looked, and only 81095 and 81092 are now available. Methinks they don’t know what they are about.
If I put in another nickle and pull the lever again, will I get a different result? As I recall, the first time I looked, they were all available, and that was just yesterday afternoon.
I went to check the bachmann site and thought it was weird how the items kept changing.
I’m thinking about picking up 2 of the #81088 for a Winter time Beyer Garratt build. The 81088 has the full valve gear and at $50 I believe it is metal as well. Since it would be a custom build it doesn’t matter if the screw holes line up, I think that is one difference between the several chasis offered? maybe?
What do you guys think would 2 of these chasis be a good start for a garratt?
I just got a nice check from GR Mag and it is burning a hole in my pocket hotter than cinders out a steam engine going upgrade!
I’ve got 3 of them waiting for me waiting at my daughters in Boston when we visit (Saves shipping costs if I wait for our annual visit to US).
One of the three will replace the front unit of my big Garratt which is getting noisy. But the Garratt chassis was modifed A LOT, cylinders moved etc. So I’m wondering if I can take the motor, wheels and gears out and just replace them. I’ll advise in a couple of months.
Go for the Garratt, Todd !!
Now what to do with the other 2 units??
Steve; It’s all your fault. You started this thread, and got everyone excited enough to raid the shelves at B’mann…now see what you’ve done…they are almost sold out, and may be able now, to pay Lee Riley’s pension.!!
Fr.Fred
I didn’t get all caught up in this buying craze, but I did look in a cupboard, and found that I had four of the replacement drives in stock.
They aren’t the ones with metal side rods, but they are the good motor and gears (Not metal). I have two locomotives with these drives in them, and they just keep running, and running and…
The drive with the so called “Simplefied” motion, does need some added parts to make it look correct. It is supposed to replicate a locomotive with Stephenson link motion…but lacks the wee bit of motion that should be there to be seen. All you need is a simple rod from the steam chest to a bell crank mounted on a rod running under the boiler…it needs this on both sides.
There are lots of pictures floating around on the web, to help anyone that cares to correct this missing machinery.