Large Scale Central

Redwood Lattice for My Railroad

Track and Trestles
#1

Making Redwood Lattice for My Railroad

When the lattice system was introduced to garden railroading several years ago a few of us in our club used the method to construct a small traveling layout that we could take to garden shows. But the use of plastic material didn’t hold up well and didn’t have enough support. Working in construction I consulted a wood working friend who helped me develop the method I currently use. Some of my original lattice pieces have been outside for over 10 years now and are still in good shape on my railroad. This is my method.

All of my lattice pieces are between 10 and 14 feet long and constructed on templates inside my shop. I have curved templates for diameters from 10’ up to 20’ that I use on my layout and predetermine how and where the track goes before I make up a lattice section by placing these templates on the railroad to see what I like. The templates are made out of 1/4” plywood and cut 3” wide with a centerline drawn on them. Then I mark and drill a small hole on this centerline every 6”. The holes are the location for the pegs that I attach to the template to give the shape for the lattice. The pegs are cut from 1-1/2” dia closet rod and have a hole drilled through the center for a screw.

My lattice is made from redwood. I start with a 2 x 6 piece of material with very small tight knots. I cut it into 1/4” wide strips the thickness of the board, 1-1/2” on my table saw. You will need 4 strips for every length of lattice. Then I cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” strips and cut them into 2” long blocks on my chop saw. You will need lots of these.

I start by placing the templates on my work bench screwed down in the desired configuration that I want with pegs screwed down every 6” on the center line. (see photo)

The first step is to attach one of the 1/4” strips to one side of the pegs using the 2” spring clamps. Leave enough room at each end for a 6” long block.

#2

The second step is to glue and staple a 2” long block to the first 1/4” strip in between each of the pegs as shown. I use a 1/4” crown staple that is 5/8” long for both this step and the next. Then glue and staple a second 1/4” strip to the other side of the block as shown.


The final step is to glue and staple another 1/4” strip to the outside of each of the original strips you already attached to the blocks and place the spring clamps over the finished product as shown. I let this sit over night to allow the glue to dry and cure. I use 1” long staples for this and only staple into the blocks.


To remove the lattice from the template I remove all the pegs. I then paint the entire lattice with flat black spray paint before I place it out on the railroad. For my upright supports I either use 1-1/2” redwood stakes or 1-1/4” PVC pipe driven into the ground. Then I screw the lattice to the upright support and trim off the excess. I backfill around all the lattice and allow my track to float over the top of the lattice except where I have my bridges.

It’s worked well for me so far. So as the saying goes. “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”. Once you’re set-up with everything you need I can punch out a section in less then an hour.

Chuck

#3

Interesting idea, thanks for sharing.

Is the second laminated strip added to give the redwood more strength rather than just using thicker material because of offset grain, or is it that the thinner strip bends easier, or both?

#4

Nice method. Seems to provide a consistency that some methods seem to lack

#5

Holy clamps Batman!!!

Very good process, though.

#6

Yeah guys, you ought to see his shop, it is huge. I mean how many of us can lay out a 14 foot long 20 foot dia. curve section and keep it on the work bench???

Chuck, what is the reason for numbering the dowel spacers, aren’t they all the same??

Beautiful work on those by the way. You don’t have too many sections left to build do you?

Later

Rick

#7

Thanks for the comments guys.

Jon, the second strip is for both strength and it allows the material to bend easier. Our first try was with solid 1/2" material, but it was hard to bend and it didn’t hold its shape after you removed it from the template.

Yes Jake lots and lots of clamps. When I originally bought them they were cheap it would cost alot more to replace them now.

OK Rick, I know you have seen the shop but my work bench is just 4’x 8’. If you look at the last picture you’ll see the adjustable support under the template. You’re right I don’t have to many more to build. Here’s a couple of pictures of what is already done waiting on track in the Spring.


#8

That looks great Chuck

#9

Chuck,

I have been researching ladder roadbed systems and I want to use uprights spaced at least 4 feet apart. Therefore the use if PVC or composite decking for the ladder is out, but your system of using redwood would do the trick.
A couple of questions if I may.

  1. When using the template, what method do you use to prevent the ladder from being glued to the plywood base as I would imagine some glue would make its way out of the bottom of the laminated strips at some points
  2. For your uprights (and since you are in Idaho) how far do you sink them in the ground and do you fix them in concrete or pack with pea gravel or nothing at all?

Chuck

#10

Hi Chuck,

As far as gluing the ladder to the template I don’t really worry about that. When I glue the blocks to the first side pieces I usually just put alittle glue on my finger and spread it lightly. Then I use a glue roller to spread the glue on the outside pieces and wipe off any excess glue before I clamp and staple everything together. After I let the whole thing dry overnight I remove the screws from the dowels and the ladder usually lifts off or I just pry it off the template.

For my upright supports I use 1", schedule 40, white PVC water pipe. I cut them to a desired length on my chopsaw and cut an angle on one end. Depending on the location on my layout I usually drive them in the ground at least 12". By driving them in the ground the center fills with dirt and they don’t back out with the winter freezes.

If you look at my other thread titled, “I’ve been working on the railroad” you can see some better pictures of my ladder and uprights. I hope this helps. Let me know if I can answer anymore questions for you.

Chuck

#11

When I build a jig, I prevent the item from gluing to the jig by rubbing the jig with a block of paraffin wax. You can buy a block of paraffin wax at the grocery store, its usually in the baking section. I would think the same trick would work with your template.

#12

Chuck,

Thank you Chuck for the quick response and additional info. I will definitely investigate the other thread and also start sourcing some redwood to give it a try.

David,

Thanks for the paraffin idea. I will definitely use that as well.

Chuck

#13

Keep up the good work and enjoy the open house. I like your inspector!