So my Really dumb question is : can you run a battery equipped engine on the same track when there is a track powered train running? 
Sean McGillicuddy said:
So my Really dumb question is : can you run a battery equipped engine on the same track when there is a track powered train running? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
Sure, I’ve run mine on Rooster’s with his running. As long as the wheels and axles are insulated, as they usually are with most TP engines, all you have to watch out for is “corn field meets”…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
David Russell said:
That is an amazing insightful and useful answer Rooster David…I don’t know how you came up with that!
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
When I converted my old LGB Forney back in the day, I cut the leads between the wheel pickups and skates and the motor, installed an either or switch so I could use batteries with the wheels disconnected or track power. If the wheels were still connected, they would be hot, shorting on by reverse loops. Thus any battery conversion must do the same. I am just one of those steam guys so what do I know?
Hi Sean, there are no dumb questions just sometimes incomplete answers. The answer to your question will save a lot of people potential problems. As Ken stated yes you can, But the track pickups must be disabled. Both in the engine and the tender. Each manufacturer is different.
There are two reason. First, if the track power is on then the track voltage will feedback into your loco and blow out the system. Second, when the r/c system accelerates the increase voltage which will go back down to the track causing other track power locos to possibly move and create a dead short. You will loose power as well.
If you are concerned call me. You will need a digital meter or 12 v bulb to check in to check your loco. Don
Thank
That answered that question… until next time!
That’s not a dumb question. I am glad you asked because I would have never thought of it figuring I am only battery and I have disconnected all track leads so why would it matter. However, one still would have to make sure the wheel/axle unit is electrically isolated if using custom wheels and axles. Since I am all battery I have thought about all metal cast drivers on all metal axle shafts for some of my custom builds. This would be a problem on track powered layouts. So far everything I am building has some plastic in it somewhere but for future builds this could be a consideration.
Devon Sinsley said:
That’s not a dumb question. I am glad you asked because I would have never thought of it figuring I am only battery and I have disconnected all track leads so why would it matter. However, one still would have to make sure the wheel/axle unit is electrically isolated if using custom wheels and axles. Since I am all battery I have thought about all metal cast drivers on all metal axle shafts for some of my custom builds. This would be a problem on track powered layouts. So far everything I am building has some plastic in it somewhere but for future builds this could be a consideration.
Devon,
As they say “It ain’t rocket science, it’s electrical engineering!”. (pun intended) (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Thanks Don, I didn’t know how far into the technical end of it he wanted to go…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Don
The engine in question is a USA GP9.
If the wire from the truck is gone is this a simple way of telling?
USA trains can be easy on some of the older engines as all you need to do is disconnect the track power connectors inside. Motor has a 2 wire connection, track power had 4 wires (2 for track and 2 for shoes/side frame power).
My motor blocks’ have one red wire and one black wire and the wire from the side frames of the truck have been removed.
I think I should be good to play on a live track.
On the motor block, the outside pins are the motor, the inside 2 pins are track pickups.
Nothing on those pins, then no connection to track.
Greg…
p.s. it is a GP7, not a GP9
Greg Elmassian said:
On the motor block, the outside pins are the motor, the inside 2 pins are track pickups.
Nothing on those pins, then no connection to track.
Greg…
p.s. it is a GP7, not a GP9
I didn’t think you were so picky … I thought that 1709 was a GP9
-1709-1568-1749
Date: 3/18/1972 Location: Mechanicville, NY Map Show Mechanicville on a rail map Views: 138 Collection Of: Gil Ford
Locomotives: BM 1709(GP9) Author: Gil Ford
B&M NE-87
Back to the subject … the wires are both the outside = motor were good!
My recollection is that the GP7 had the air tanks on the roof and the GP9 had the fan on top. Hard to see, but looks like a fan up there to me.
Greg’s comments were to explain that the USAT model that is marked Gp7/9 is actually a model of a GP7. Things like the location of louvers, and other details make the difference between a GP7 & GP9. That said, USAT did paint many GP9 paint schemes on the “Gp7/9” model.
As for the airtanks on the roof, many railroads ordered larger fuel tanks, thus the air tanks wouldn’t fit under the hood. Instead they put them up on the roof. With the airtanks on the roof non-dynamic brakes. Also, non-dynamic brakes were available with low mounted air tanks.
Right on Craig, it was fun researching this, but was more difficult than I thought.
Greg
Torpedo Boats. Look it up.
And, if radio/battery, you can run anywhere…on live steam railroads with uninsulated steamers, on wood rails, across a convention hall on indoor/outdoor carpeting (done it) with NO track, though two inches of muddy water (done it), on Elmassian’s dcc layout…and even during a major power outage (done that several times).
No matter how great your expensive track that doesn’t need cleaning…it does in some locales. Slug trails, sap, pine needles, and just general junk on the rail head (like, oh, leave a string of cars out with pot metal wheels during a storm…when it dries out, and you bring them back in…sometimes it’s a bit of work to get the staining off…).
Of course, sunny so cal folks never know about rain…freezing…roadbed heave and all the wires trapped in the frozen ballast stay put…and they get ripped off the track…but I digress.
TOC
But we still put our wire in conduits… and if you never clean your track, eventually crud will build up on your wheels… I do concede that you can run battery on far dirtier track, but twigs and branches can derail any train… so battery power does not mean you never clean or clear your track… it NOT black and white.
Each has it’s advantages… but hey you are happy and I’m happy, what a world!
Greg