Large Scale Central

Real rust or simulated?

For my next structure I’ve been toying with the idea of using .002" cold rolled steel to make the flattened “tin cans” and other small bits of rusted sheetmetal. Has anyone tried anything like this? I have the stock and it’s pretty malleable. I’m thinking it would rust realistically – but I’m also concerned about it rusting away to nothing.

Alternately, I’d use brass and the Sophisticated Finishes “iron” and “rust” solutions.

Thoughts?

Ray Dunakin said:
For my next structure I've been toying with the idea of using .002" cold rolled steel to make the flattened "tin cans" and other small bits of rusted sheetmetal. Has anyone tried anything like this? I have the stock and it's pretty malleable. I'm thinking it would rust realistically -- but I'm also concerned about it rusting away to nothing.

Alternately, I’d use brass and the Sophisticated Finishes “iron” and “rust” solutions.

Thoughts?


Real rust will “blister” and rise, looking out of proportion.
Ralph

The vinegar & steel wool pad solution that Kevin Strong talked a lot a bout a few years ago makes for nice realistic looking rust. I’ve tried it outdoors and it does weather away after a New England winter. In your climate you might get several years out of it.

It’s easy to make. White vinegar covering a few steel wool pads in either a very large container, or a small vented one. Let sit 2-4 weeks while the pads dissolve. Stir, then wash the object to be rusted with it. Within 24 hours you will have a nice rusty finish.

Don’t ask me how I know that small containers need to be vented :smiley:

I think in your climate using steel outdoors would work well.

-Brian

I use a yellow patina for steel to “rust” my wheels.

Michaels has a “kit” for simulating rust that looks very good and to scale. It’s a 2 step process, a base coat, and then the “rust”.

I’ll look to see if I have the product name.

Greg

Greg, that’s the “Sophisticated Finishes” product, and I’ve decided to use that for this project.