Large Scale Central

Real Diodes

Electronics
#1

Good afternoon everyone :

I’m hoping I can get some wiring help. I want to install motor units on my piko switches . I made my own control panel with momentary toggle switches to control them. I found wiring diagrams that help me but I keep seeing references to "real diodes " . Can someone tell me what size I need and how to install them . I have a USA TRAINS train power 10 and I don’t know if that makes a difference. Also, where I can get them. I’m new to the hobby and you guy’s have already helped me twice and I’m hoping you will do it again. Another diagram would be really helpful too.

Thank’s

Bob

#2

Real as opposed to light emitting, I suppose. They control direction of DC electrons. We used to point to radio shack, but now a daze it’s electronic supply.

I’ve bought from these people;

https://www.mpja.com/search_results.asp?q=diode

#3

The 1N4xxx series will be fine, not signal diodes or zeners.

Pick the amperage you need, I would guess 1 amp would be enough, but maybe buy the 3 amp ones just to be sure.

Greg

#4

Thank’s Greg , I knew I could count on you guy’s. I hope I learn enough to be able to help someone out too.

#5

Just for my own curiosity could an LED (light emitting diode) be used and have the added benefit of “showing” the switch position?

#6

Since most switches are momentary, I think you’d need another switch (dpdt) controlled by the turnout motor to activate a different power supply for the LEDs, which are polarity sensitive.

#7

In addition to what John said, your switch motor will draw more than the current capacity of the LED, and then it changes from an LED to a DED … or worse an open circuit…

(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#8

John Caughey said:

Since most switches are momentary, I think you’d need another switch (dpdt) controlled by the turnout motor to activate a different power supply for the LEDs, which are polarity sensitive.

I did it on my old HO layout I used a microswitch to turn on one LED and the other off on a mimic panel so I could see the direction the point (turnout for the US folks) was set to.

The switch was a NO/NC switch that activated depending on the point arm position.

Would be very easy to do, so easy in fact that I am planning on using it on new my G layout but this time switching signal lights as well.

No real need to involve a point motor except for positioning the “throw bar?”.

Power supply under cover LEDs wherever and switch in a water resistant cover.