Large Scale Central

Re-gauging trucks

General Discussion
#1

I recently picked up some standard gauge cars. The cars are actually smaller than my Bachmann coaches, even though the track gauage is wider. Rather than buy new track, it would be cheaper to re-gauge the trucks to run on the track I already have. The easiest way to do this, would be to swap out the trucks. But then the trucks wouldn’t match the tin-plate look of the coaches. So, I need someone who can re-gauge the metal trucks and wheel sets. Doe anyone know somebody who does this kind of work ? Ralph

#2

Do you plan on running them with a non “tinplate” loco? I only ask due to the obvious missing 3rd rail with our stuff. The standard gauge track is almost equal in price to ours for the new stuff!

#3
Mark V said:
Do you plan on running them with a non "tinplate" loco? I only ask due to the obvious missing 3rd rail with our stuff. The standard gauge track is almost equal in price to ours for the new stuff!
I was thinking about using a Kalamazoo or maybe a Hartland. The standard gauge steam locomotives are priced way up in the stratosphere. Lionel standard gauge is 2 1/8 inches, everyone elses standard (wide)gauge is 2 1/4 inches. Ralph
#4

Ralph;

Are the wheel sets insulated from the axles? I thought that Standard Gauge was like O Gauge tinplate, in that the wheels and axles were free to conduct from one outside rail to the other, since the center rail was the “hot” rail. That sort of conductivity would not bode well on two-rail track.

Obviously the car shown is not illuminated, but you probably need to give some thought to how you want to insulate wheels and possibly the connection between the floor of the cars and the trucks.

Best,
David Meashey

#5

Dave,
The wheels are not insulated. Not a problem for me, as I am moving to Battery/RC.
I could do the work myself, but I’d have to buy some tools. To make things simple, I could leave the truck width alone and move the wheels on the solid axle.
Ralph

#6

You could use some brass tubing, flare one end and push it through the hole on the side frames, projecting to the inside a proper distance to slide the end of the axles into. Maybe use J&B weld to hold the tubing in place. Probably have to glue/solder a block to the inside of the side frames also, so you have more thickness to support the brass tube.

#7

As you can see from the pictures, the trucks are easily removed from the body. After that, things become much more difficult :wink: Ralph

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/MTrucks2M.JPG)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/MTrucksM.JPG)

#8
Ralph Berg said:
As you can see from the pictures, the trucks are easily removed from the body. After that, things become much more difficult
Ralph,

A few years ago I converted a Lionel 616 Zephyr set to run on my 2-rail O-gauge layout. The easiest way was to replace the wheels with new, modern, insulated ones. You could probably find some wheels that would fit. I used NWSL brass bearings in the truck frame as the holes were way too big.

But looking at your photos, I suggest you just need new axles and a spacer. Your local R/C store can supply a variety of steel rod - one will match what you have. Then get some plastic tubing - I use the stuff from my wife’s new shoes - and cut it to length, about 1.56". I’d cut it a bit small and get some plastic washers to adjust the gauge as those wheels have big flanges. If the tube isn’t a tight fit on the axle, you can wind some electrical tape on it to make it stay where you want it.

You don’t have to worry about the outside of the wheel, as it will be kept in place by the rails. You may need a washer to keep them centered.

A cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool will make short work of the steel rod, and will allow you to cut the end of the axle to free it from the truck.

I could do it for you, but it isn’t very complicated. How many cars do you have?

#9

Thanks Pete,
I was also pondering grinding off the inner “stops” on the axels and moving the wheels in.
Then either soldering or using epoxy to hold them in place.
Either way I need to buy a Dremel…I should have bought one long ago.

But I think your solution is the easiest :wink:
Ralph

#10
Pete Thornton said:
I could do it for you, but it isn't very complicated. How many cars do you have?
Two cars right now Pete. But I hope to pick up three more cars shortly. Ralph
#11
Ralph Berg said:
I was also pondering grinding off the inner "stops" on the axels and moving the wheels in.
Ralph,

Before you do anything to them, check out the ‘coarse’ shape of those wheels. They were not designed for our current track. I suspect you will find the flanges are about 1/4" deep, and will foul your switches due to width of the flange.
Take one of the trucks off and run the wheels on one side manually along your track. Try it through a switch.

I think you will be a lot happier switching the wheels for current/modern ones. (And then you can save the old wheels so that when you sell the coach, they are almost original.)

Even better would be to buy some new trucks to replace the ones you have, so you don’t have to do anything that would make them worth less. That old tinplate stuff [even replicas, which I assume yours are] can get valuable. There are stores specializing in the spare parts.

#12

Pete,
The flanges are huge. I had checked the clearance on track, but not switches.
I think you are right, it will be a problem on the switches.
So new trucks is probably the way to go.

These cars were made in the 1970’s & 1980’s. They’ll never have the collector value of the Lionel & American Flyer trains.
But they’ll certainly be worth more with original trucks than without :wink:
Ralph

#13

Now that I’ve decided to replace the trucks rather than re-gauge them, any suggestions?
So far, I’m thinking about the Sierra Passenger trucks. But Aristo doesn’t have any and they might be hard to find.
I don’t want to use Bachmann J/S trucks, as I don’t like them and really would like to replace them on my Bachmann coaches as well.
Ralph

#14

Do they have to be passenger car trucks? How would Delton trucks look. You can still get them without wheels or springs cheap on eBay.

#15

Thanks Jon.
Two of the cars I’d like to have passenger trucks.
I have two more that freight trucks would work fine.
I’ll look into the Delton Trucks. I have plenty of metal wheels. Where can I get the springs?
Ralph

#16

Ralph
I use the these for mine
http://shop.hartfordproducts.com/product.sc?productId=139&categoryId=51
Or you can use some from old ink pens
Rodney

#17
Ralph Berg said:
I'll look into the Delton Trucks. I have plenty of metal wheels. Where can I get the springs? Ralph
I use cut down springs from ball point pens. They are a bit softer than what Aristo uses, but they work.

Unfortunately, they guy on eBay doesn’t have any listed in his store at the moment,. I knew I should have bought another set when I last saw them :frowning: