Large Scale Central

RailPro Install

Hi Pete, the sensitive part of the RailPro loco module is when you use the +V and Common screw terminals. It is fused against shorts , however, it is a internal surface mount fuse that you and I cannot change. That is why you need to return the module for repair.

If in doubt about your wiring I use a 1 amp, must be a 1 amp glass fuse quick blow connected to the +V to test my wiring. I rarely need to use the +V terminals. But they come in handy, but you must be careful not to short the +V and common.

USA engines do not provide the complete “DCC” wiring, which provides two wires to each light and isolate the motors. When you modify USA engines wiring issues can happen if you do not fully understand the wiring. Ask us for advice.

On USA engines I have a set procedure for my installs.This is a shortened summary of steps for using battery power. Track power steps would be different.

  1. Turn over and remove all body screws. Working on the bottom. Then remove the 4 track pick up wires attached the end of each motor block if on battery power. Remove the sliders. The outside wires to the motor block pins are motor power. Leave in place.

  2. Remove fuel tank and mount the on/off switch and speaker. Mount charge jack in fuel tank side or rear end of engine near coupler. Or where you prefer.

  3. Upright engine, remove shell and work on the inside of engine. Looking at the USA lighting board, unplug both motor connectors, the 2 wire red/black cables from the USA lighting board and the four wires plug for track pickups. Now the lighting board is out of the circuit.

  4. I mount the RailPro module over the rear weight with the screw terminals going towards the cab end. This way heat rises up thru the fans or you can add a 5V fan to exhaust heat.

  5. Connect motor wires directly to the RailPro module. Cut off black plugs from rear motor and connect the red/blk wires to the M2 screw terminals. Use red wire for +. The front motor wires will be short. To lengthen reuse the removed 4 wire track pick up cable and plug into the short motor wire plug. Connect the red/blk wires directly to the RailPro M1 and M2 motor terminals. This time connect the red to minus. Because, the USA motor blocks are mounted 180’ opposite. Or you can swap the wires below on the motor block if you forget.

  6. I always do a test here to make sure the battery powers the system. Connect the red/blk wire from the on/off switch to the track input screw terminals on the module. Turn on. Next Link the hand controller to the module to test the radio by pressing the find button. Select the no name loco and run the motors. If all is good, now you know that your wiring and the radio works.

  7. Next tackle the lights. That is a lengthy conversation for the next installment. Or contact me at at [email protected]

Don

Don - That 1A glass fuse during testing is great advice. Probably would have saved the AM-1 that I blew up (probably just an internal fuse) when experimenting with inputs and outputs. My error was trying to get the module to do things it wasn’t designed to do and somehow shorted an output. A $70 mistake including shipping, but Tim upgraded me to a 1S on the exchange (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)

I guess it is called “the learning curve”. At least you got a little more in return.

Tim originally suggested a 2 amp. When that blew the module he said, " well that’s on me". Better use a 1 amp. We were testing a MTH smoke unit.

Don

Thanks Don, I had pretty much followed your steps for my installation, I did not remove the wiper wires off the axles, but will do that this weekend. I had tested as I went , just to make sure things were working properly. Something happened when I soldered the cab light and was testing it when everything went bad I will recheck all my wiring before I reconnect the module when it is returned. Thanks for the help , if you wish to email me the light wiring you can @tealpete96@msn.com. Would using a 9v battery to test the lights harm the LED bulbs?

Hi Pete, I use my old MRC power pack. It has a volt and amp meter so I can see trouble early on. I test lights at 3 volts if I do not see resistors in line to those lights. If resistors increase to 5 volts. Then switch polarity, if they stay on it is a bulb. If too dim increase voltage to 14 or 18V. Did you know that RailPro can reduce the bulb voltage if you think is it too bright!! Pretty cool.

I am at a show this weekend but will send you lighting procedures on Monday.

Don

Well RailPro called today and said the fuse was blown. So somehow something touched, I think an un assigned wire touched something like a weight,( my guess) anyway $44.00 and it’s on its way back to me. while waiting I ordered some more lights so I may add ditch lights and use the 2 wires that are not used so far. So in about a week or 2 I should be making noise and rolling down the track. Looking forward to hearing it and seeing run in its own!!!

Been there, done that, only with the AM-1 accessory module. Learned my lesson to not try and use inputs and outputs in undocumented/supported ways.

Triple check all your connections and insulate unused wires before power up this time (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Well I got the RailPro module back installed and everything is working fine ! The sound is great and so far I have nothing to complain about . I have been running it all last weekend and it has been running for about 4 hours and still has about half a charge. I am planning on getting more .

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Uploading: IMG_3826.MOV…
Here is a video

Might need to try that again, Pete. I think videos must be uploaded to utube or some other hosting site and then paste the link here.

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I will work on it when I get some time

The pictures in the posts for this thread are all blank. Does anyone know why? I can see pictures in other threads just fine.

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Not sure why they went away. What do you .



My apologies, I don’t know how that first picture got in there

well in the last couple of months I have finished another 2 RailPro installs



The dash 9 I got with the help of Devon Sinsley from Steve Featherkyles estate, it has a new crew and all LED lights


wiring all the different lights on this locomotive was a real challenge, I think there are 15 total lights on this monster. It really challenged me and while there are some things I should change in the future, for now I cant wait for cooler temps to put it on the track and run it pulling a long train.
I didnt notice when I plugged it all together a mistake I made and when I put it on the track I got grinding noises from the motors,after a lot of searching and trying to figureit out I FINALLY noticed the simple issue, motors were wired to the wrong color and they were running in opposite directions!!! OOPS! Thankfully i dont think any permanent damage has been done.
Next vicitim is my USA GP38-2 CN #9402

CN 9402, I was at a crossroads with this one, I like the paint and especially the map on it, so I was going to repaint it as a custom for my road paintjob, but I just can’t, so I got another RailPro and all the needed lights for this one and installed it and finished about a week ago.


First thing was installing the CamPac box to get KaDee couplers on it, Then on with the RP install, I added truck lights and improvised some ditch lights. I had been converting more cars to body mounts and when cutting off the factory tang i looked at the piece I cut off and it had decent dimensions with the round tab one the end , I drilled it out and used a thick washer from theCAmPac kit to fashion some shade “eyebrows” for the lights
After I took this picture I painted the white shade black and added all the railings back on , cant wait to do some MU running with the other locomotives, and if I can ever figure out video posting I will add some.
For this locomotive I used some Evan Design nano square flat lights for the step lights and I think they look great.

Next pair to get the RailPro treatment is my F3 AB set, which requires 2 modules, but will be slightly easier as there are not a lot of light s to wire in to the module. Anyone know if they had truck lights or step lights on them?

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Pete, I would consider adding more resistors between some of the lights to reduce the brightness of the LED’S. i like my lights to look correct for brightness, that is, I don’t want to light up the whole country side when the engine goes by like Lionel trains do. I use 3 and 5 size LED’s on all my engines, cars, etc., and control the brightness with the resistors, usually 100’s, one at a time. I also use both the bright white and the soft white LED’S depending where I use them for the correct affect I want. I’m sold on Rail Pro and installing another one on a new engine as we speak, Don is great a RSC and get his module stand-off they work great.
trainman

With Railpro there is no need to experiment with resistors for brightness. Each light output can be programmed for brightness. This is done on the button programming page. If A light output is selected there will be a brightness slider on the screen. Of course, you do need a proper resistor to limit the current flow for full brightness.

Standard immature response from a Rooster!

Love the work Pete and good for you digging in on the dark side !

Jon and John , I know and have palyed with the lighting adjustments on the RailPro, really enjoy the different things you can do with the whole program and set ups. .
The picture was taken in a darker room , just to get the effects of the lights to show up best. All my LED I buy come with the proper resistor already installed and so far I am happy with the brightness of how they look . Thanks Rooster

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