I have spent most of this week learning and experimenting with the RailPro system. Except that the system lacks the ability to utilize a chuff trigger, I am really impressed. I have heard that Ring is working on implementing a chuff trigger, but that it is complicated by the way their system is designed, so it may be a long while before it is a feature. Even so, the chuff timing isn’t too bad, and to tell the truth, if I am not looking directly at the wheels or the cylinders, I really don’t notice it as a problem. There are also things I can do with a speed table to get the chuff to sync even better. I’ll look into that when I have the patience to figure it out.
I decided to follow the same path as I did with C.V.S.Ry. C-19 #8 three years ago: Eliminate the tender weight and all of the tender electronics, but leave the in-loco electronics in place. The RailPro LM3-S-G module makes this really simple since it supplies the 5V needed for lighting and has a battery pass-through to support the boiler fan and the smoke unit. I am able to take full control of everything from Class Lights to Firebox flicker using the programmable buttons. I’ve even added the ability to dim the cab light, headlight and rear light. The amount of dimming is programmed as a default when the button is pushed, but can be adjusted in real time if desired using the knob. This is all done without any external devices or connectors other than the battery. Way less complicated than Olde #8.
Since we all agree that threads need pictures, I took a few shots of the working install and HC screens. First up, a side view of the open tender. I’ve left the tender fan for the moment, but it’s not connected. I don’t think it will be needed as the LM stays quite cool. I’ll probably remove it. To the right of the fan is another one of those speakers salvaged from a sound bar. The RailPro LM3-S-G is temporarily mounted to the speaker enclosure which will not be it’s final position. In the foreground you can see the output wires already connected to the tender plug wires for light and smoke control…
This view shows the screw connection end of the module. From left to right: +5V to the boiler for light power, the + lead from a LiIon battery pack, Motor + lead, Motor - lead, the - battery lead, battery common to boiler, battery + voltage to the boiler. I will create a new spreadsheet documenting these connections and post it here soon…
Of course, it would have been possible to leave all of the factory electronics in place and solder the RailPro leads directly to the tender board -OR- use the “octopus” board to make connections. I chose to remove all that as much of the circuitry is redundant. It’s probably not significant, but all that electronics does use some power. Since I had already documented all of the wires from the tender plugs, it was really just a matter of soldering the wires.
Moving to the controller, this is how I set up the first page of user defined buttons. Photgraphing the computer screen seemed easier than trying to position the controller for a good shot…
And page two…
I’ve been running #345 back and forth on the indoor getting a feel for the system and tweaking my button set up. At this point I think I’m satisfied with the set up and I’m ready to go to the next steps. I still need to close up the hole in the speaker enclosure, bend and install some brackets to hold the speaker, then mount the Loco Module and tidy up. Should have that done before the weekend is out.
Since I have a second C-19 that I’d like to convert someday soon, I’m wondering if it’s possible to clone the programming of one LM to another.
