Each clamp holds two adjoining rails in alignment. If you use flex track you end up with staggered rail joints - just like the prototype. One clamp for each joint.
If you want to have blocks - for whatever reason - then the joints should be side by side which means you have two clamps at that point of the track.
Good thread.
Do any of you railclamp users solder any of your rails together? I’ve been using mostly the joiners that came with my LGB and Aristo Track. Seven years and no problems, so I’ve never really understood what the big deal is with these clamps. I have also made several shorter lengths - those silly one-footers - into longer lengths by soldering the rails together. Works great, and as far as I can figure out, would be better than clamps - and a whole lot cheaper.
Or do you use the clamps just so it’s easier to swap out your track in certain places such as switches and bridges? Curious mind wants to know!
I’ve never had much of a problem with this either.
But then I use no ballast - my track sits on concrete pavers and bricks - loose I guess you’d say, tho’ it doesn’t move unless I move it. And whenever I do I’m very glad I don’t use ballast. I probably should confess that I’m a recovering rivetcounter. Nowadays, very glad of our ten foot rule, I care much more about operations than about detail realism, which hardly matters to me at all anymore! A whole new take on the hobby for me.
I believe that going without ballast was one of the smartest decisions I’ve made, BTW.
I’m with you John…come to think of it…the guy with more than a thousand rail clamps…egads…for the price of them, and all the powerpacks and wiring…he could have equipped a few locomotives with a great radio control system, and had money left over, to buy all the drinks for the group as they operated and had fun, instead of cleaning track…but then…what do I know about such matters…I’m a ludite, still using gelcells…!!!
John,
When I was still using track power, every rail joint on my railway, had a jumper wire soldered across it.
Now that I have converted to battery power, the jumpers serve no purpose. But I have found , over the years, that Aristo factory joiners failed by spltting along the bottom edges. And even though half of the joiner remained in place with the screws holding it, they weren’t enough to keep the rails aligned properly.
On the issue of removable track sections such as turnouts, the rail clamps are very useful.
Yes…clamps are useful at switches…you just need one pair at the point end, and you can remove a switch for repairs easily.
I don’t have railjoiner failure, because my railroad is built using 2x pressure treated roadbed, and all track is nailed down.
Solid, well built roadbed, is the secret to good track work. We don’t nail in the centre of the ties, we drill and nail on the outside ends of the ties…
Shucks Fred, with the money he’s spent on clamps, I’d get brazing gear, do my rails properly, and with the change I’d take my amazing wife out to a swell dinner and dance.
You do know that our Friar Fred is going to come back and say that we only have to have our rails mechanically connected and not electrically connected. 
For Whatever It’s Worth, I have used nothing but Hillman clamps for about 15 years for several reasons:
Why Hillman, brand loyalty. I started with them; see no reason to change.
They hold my track in absolute alignment vertically as well as horizontally.
When I used track power, they provided all the continuity needed without contact grease or jumper wires. Even ovals of around 150 feet did not need more than one set of feeders.
They freed me from having to deal with those maddeningly small horizontal connector screws that my age prevented me fromm seeing or holding.
They let me buy track in 5’ packs or complete circles of various diameters. I could cut off whatever lengths or arcs I needed, dress the cuts with a file, and clamp things together without ever having to drill and tap the horizontal holes.
I can set up and tear down my annual public holiday display with relative ease and never worry if the venue staff will encounter track or power failures.
Yes, I have broken my fair share of Hillmans due to over torquing, but it has always been user error. I have been able to reuse them over and over as track configurations change or roadbeds need major reconstruction.
I certainly don’t want to start any flame wars here as to who’s OEM or after market products are best. Nor do I claim that my way is the best or only right way. I’m just saying that clamps which grip the rail (not surround the OEM joiners) have enabled me to enjoy the hobby more.
I’d also like to hear more from those who are able to fasten their track down solidly without encountering problems from expansion/contraction. Much as I would like to, I don’t see any way to accomplish that in the Maryland temperature ranges.
Ted
The main reason I would use clamps goes above and beyond electrical connection…Alignment. Having an indoor layout the sound of rolling stock traversing REA/Aristo was noticeably harsher with their stock clamps than it was with a typical rail clamp.
I use AML clamps on AML and LGB track outdoors, indoors I ran almost nothing but LGB track with standard LGB connectors (sold the Aristo).
“I’d also like to hear more from those who are able to fasten their track down solidly without encountering problems from expansion/contraction. Much as I would like to, I don’t see any way to accomplish that in the Maryland temperature ranges.”
I started my garden railway in 1992. My initial method was 1 1/2" concrete pavers, 8" x 16". I cut them to fit on curved track, etc. I then screwed the track down to the pavers. OK, so I thought. Within a few years, my method proved to be too labor intensive. Particularly when a change in track layout was required. One of the problems with track fastened securely to the substrata is expansion. Oh, my track expanded, but where the screws penetrated the ties, the ties split and cracked.
My entire railway now floats on ballast, just like the big guys do. My last bit of screwed down track went the way of the horse and buggy many years ago.
So in response to the question of securing track to some sort of ridgid bed, I would have to vote no. This is my opinion only. I’ve seen many modellers who have layouts with wood or concrete road beds. It’s just not for me.
Ted Tuck said:
I’d also like to hear more from those who are able to fasten their track down solidly without encountering problems from expansion/contraction. Much as I would like to, I don’t see any way to accomplish that in the Maryland temperature ranges.
Ted,
I fasten my track to the roadbed. I put screws in about every 18 inches or so. The key is that it is all AMS flex track. I would not try this with the Aristo track that has the ties screwed to the rail.
My first railroad “floated” the track in ballast. That was pretty much a dismal failure as it was constantly shifting due to things like animals and hoses going across the track.
I’m in Northern Virginia; I suspect that if I were to run today I would not encounter any derailment problems; but, it’s too cold for me to go outside to find out, so I’m off the hook.
Bruce Chandler said:
Ted Tuck said:
I’d also like to hear more from those who are able to fasten their track down solidly without encountering problems from expansion/contraction. Much as I would like to, I don’t see any way to accomplish that in the Maryland temperature ranges.
Ted,
I fasten my track to the roadbed. I put screws in about every 18 inches or so. The key is that it is all AMS flex track. I would not try this with the Aristo track that has the ties screwed to the rail.
My first railroad “floated” the track in ballast. That was pretty much a dismal failure as it was constantly shifting due to things like animals and hoses going across the track.
I’m in Northern Virginia; I suspect that if I were to run today I would not encounter any derailment problems; but, it’s too cold for me to go outside to find out, so I’m off the hook.
That’s pretty much what I do, too and I’m in SE PA.
John Le Forestier said:
Good thread.
Do any of you railclamp users solder any of your rails together? I’ve been using mostly the joiners that came with my LGB and Aristo Track. Seven years and no problems, so I’ve never really understood what the big deal is with these clamps.
I use clamps at all the turnouts - just in case!
I usually insert a railclamp on both ends of three pieces of Llagas flex, the other joints have rail joiners that get soldered.
BTW I also wear suspenders in addition to a belt. 
And most of my track is Nickel Silver C215
“BTW I also wear suspenders in addition to a belt.”
Safety first HJ.
PS.
Still waiting for the Lytton videon as well
Yuuuup! At a friend’s rebuild of his layout, he’d acquired a bunch of one foot sections of code 332 brass track. I soldered three or four of these together and used Hillman clamps between these longer sections.
I used a resistance solderer for the first time. I cleaned the ends of the track and the original slip joiners, fluxed everything, then slid the tracks together and soldered everything together, including solder in the slip joiner on the rails.
When these sections were completed, I could then use a Train-Li bender to make these sections conform to what we needed, not what the manufacturer commanded us!
Oh and a late Sunday fix when the hobby shop is closed. If all you have is “over the joiner” clamps but no joiners and no standard clamps, a short (one inch or so) piece of 14 gauge wire in the OTJ clamp will snug down nicely and do the job.
Randy McDonald said:
“BTW I also wear suspenders in addition to a belt.”
Safety first HJ.
PS.
Still waiting for the Lytton videon as well
It’s a coming.
Today was a skiing day. Great fun to take the Seppala out for a run. It was also learning time i.e. don’t follow another skier with a dog because both pooches will be distracted and in no time you bite the snow when one or the other decides that having a closer look is essential. Even more fun when it’s around a 120º turn on a downhill.
Jeff Walls said:
Do these fit under the rails and then the screw heads secure the foot on each side?
Yes
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/smcgill_pics/railclamps022.jpg)
Dan Padova said:
“I’d also like to hear more from those who are able to fasten their track down solidly without encountering problems from expansion/contraction. Much as I would like to, I don’t see any way to accomplish that in the Maryland temperature ranges.”
I’m in PA I have Aristo Brass track (with the screws removed underneath that fastens the rail to the ties) all the joints have slip on railjoiners and are hard soldered in mostly 20’ to 40 ’ sections I used split jaws on my bridges and for joining the hard soldered sections in some areas. My roadbed varies and I do screw the ties down to it in some areas. It has been in place since 2007 and expands and contracts on the curves
I don’t buy Split Jaws unless my dealer is out of Hillmans’. Because of my poor eyesight and the ;ack of dexterity on my left arm it takes me a half hour to install each Split Jaw where I can install the Hillman clamps in a couple minutes.
When my track contracted in the wunter weather I do have one track separation. It’s two Split Jaws!
On the far end of the layout I enjoy watching the track float in the summer. It hasn’t separated in five years.
Sorry for your difficulties, Doug. I know a little about having 'em myself. If the two of us got together we might add up to one man!
Jus’ keep on laughin’, buddy!
A split jaw: what you could end up with if you picked a fight in a bar.
