Large Scale Central

Rail Clamp Design Theory

General Discussion
#1

Are any participants in this forum following the discussion on the Aristo-Craft Forum regarding “Rail Clamp Design Theory?” I am curious about the collective thoughts of any interested parties regarding the advantages and disadvantages of respective rail clamp designs. The list currently being reviewed and analyzed is at seven types of clamps. If there are additional types of clamps, I would appreciate comments regarding those clamps.

Respectfully,

Gordon G. Perrin, Jr.
Plymouth, Michigan
Lakeshore Garden Railroad Club Portable Modular Railway Layout Master

#2

Yes Gordon,
you will know that I am following your posts. I do not have any clamps on my railroad as I have 100% Aristo-Craft brass track. The small screws that Aristo uses in their track have, over the last five years, maintained electrical continuity quite satisfactorily without any additional requirements.

I do use plastic isolation joiners on spurs and a loop. Brass power supply connectors are fixed either side of the break and power provided, when required, by wire between small crocodile clips. A quick expediency is often the blade of a pocket knife which bridges the electrical gap.

I have considered Aristo clamps, due to their being easily concealed by ballast, where switches are situate.

#3

I’ve tried most, don’t know if it is actually 7. Maybe 7 if including Aristo Craft and LGB regular rail joiners, but I seem happiest with the performance of Split Jaws. Sometimes a little bit of a pain to install, but never fail and hide fairly well in ballast. I think the brass screws in the new AC clamp will quickly fail with lots of use.

#4

The Slate Creek has both Hilliman’s and Split Jaw … the former seems to work well all over… the latter hides better at the bottom of the rail, but is a little tricky to install, particularly if you are, like me, equipped with all thumbs… either seems to work well. I use railclamps in the curves both to help with curve formation by hand (no bender…) and for power purposes when needed (the straight sections, the “slip joiners” seem to do fine at least so far. (Do remember, I’m indoors…)

Hillman’s also comes with power clamps, wheel stops, etc… not sure about Split Jaw.

#5

No clamps except at the switches. (For ease in removing and maintaining.)
Battery power. LGB track with LGB sliders.
The track needs to expand and contract.

#6
Matthew (OV) said:
The Slate Creek has both Hilliman's and Split Jaw .... the former seems to work well all over... the latter hides better at the bottom of the rail, but is a little tricky to install, particularly if you are, like me, equipped with all thumbs....
Funny, I have the exact opposite opinion. I have had lots of trouble installing and removing Hillman's, but I find Split Jaw calmps to install easier. I attach to one side; finger tighten, then attach the second side and tighten both.

I have been outside for about 6 years. Haven’t tested my track power this year, but a year ago all was well. For most joints I use the included Aristo joiners but I replace the screw with a larger head Phillips (the Aristo tie strip screws). I use Split Jaws at all switches for ease of removal for maintenance.

#7

I like to use the aristo rail joiners that come with the track. I feel they hold the best. Where I cut the track and at switches I use the aristo clamps. They are easy to use and so far I have had no issues. Other members in my club use splitjaw and they dont seem to have any problems and also easy to use.

#8

I’ve found that the problem with failing Hillman’s stems from trying to use the wrong clamp. Whenever I’ve tried to use a brass clamp on stainless track, the clamp fails at the top, skinny “wing.” This is due to the fact that stainless track is not built on the same profile as the brass. Dunno why Lewis did this, but he did.

So, you have a choice, either us a clamp that is too small for the stainless track, or one that is too big for the brass track. Neither is satisfactory.

The new Aristo clamp solves that problem, though.

#9

I use both Hilman and Split-Jaw with success, just make sure you have the correct sze Allen Wrench in hand. One the problems I have (using AL Track and Al clamps) is that the allen screws crud up and need some shop time with a Tap of the correct size and some ‘anti-seize’ compound on the threads. I too have clamps on the turnout for ease of maintainence. I do not have track power and mount most ot my track on the roadbed (2x6 treaded) with brass wood screws and use SS slip joints.

Paul

#10

I always used LGB rail joiners and got very tired of having to put my tracks back together every Spring.

Last year I decided to add track power and installed Hillman’s, Split Jawss and AML clamps. This year I had no track separations or power problems. I just had to clean my track and run trains. I’m a very happy camper.

I especially like the AML clamps because I can use them to connect the wires to the tracks and just tighten the clamp!

It’s great to see the track expand and contract without pulling apart!

#11

If the Aristo joiner screws had a deeper allen head cap to hold the screw on the wrench more firmly they would not be so easily lost in the ballast

#12

That’s what I would do.

After losing a few Allen wrenches I finally got a magnet to hold them and carry it wherever I go.

#13

I use Split-Jaws on my layout. No problems so far. Inside some of the tunnels I soldered the rails rather than using clamps, just to eliminate any possible hard-to-reach electrical issues.

#14
David Hill said:
If the Aristo joiner screws had a deeper allen head cap to hold the screw on the wrench more firmly they would not be so easily lost in the ballast
I always place a small plastic lid beneath any track where I am removing or fitting Aristo track screws. It is a lid from a 'Chinese take-away' carton. I guess you have the same sort of things Stateside lol Initially I did buy a pack of extras just in case of them being needed.
#15
David Hill said:
If the Aristo joiner screws had a deeper allen head cap to hold the screw on the wrench more firmly they would not be so easily lost in the ballast
This is a problem. I tried several solutions, none very satisfactory. That's why I ended up using the larger head Phillips screws from the tie strips.
#16

I use the AML clamps. Love them. the only thing I would like to see changed is the allen screw. It seems to be a odd size. Maybe a phillips screw. I anve tons of phillips screwdrivers.

#17

I use a lot of soft cream cheese and those lids would work great. I will use one when I install switch machines! Thanks.

#18

Thanks to everyone for responding. The Aristo-Craft thread has been shut down. I will attempt to complete the effort over the next several months and perhaps present the complete effort at the ECLSTS or 2012 NGRC in Chicago.

#19

SVRR has some Hillman type clamps, but they are a bit smaller to fit between their tie strips.

#20

Foudn this in my train website link folder yesterday:

http://trackjoiners.com/