Large Scale Central

R/C to LGB Mogul

I want to convert my LGB Mogul to battery using R/C. I would like to be able to use my current controler that I use for my live steam Forney. What would be a good R/C setup that is basic. I just want forward/ reverse and speed control. I have the critter control currently in a few engines and like it but now that my little one is getting good at my train engineer and need something for plowing. I want to get something using battery. I dont need all the bells and whistles nor anything hi tec. Del has a decent system that will allow me to use my current control (planet something). Any thoughts?

Also whats the best way to hook this up?

I have a couple of Tony’s early stick RC throttles, and they’re pretty good. Bart has a couple, too, I think. (Disclaimer: Tony is an an advertiser here, but these things do work nicely)

Thanks for the compliments Bob.
The early RCS EVO ESC’s are momentum only type R/C throttles. That is the elevator stick is used for both speed and direction. You ramp up the speed and once the desired speed is obtained the stick is let go and the locos continue at that speed until told to do something else.
The latest RCS PRO series ESC’s are fully digital proportional in speed control. The elevator stick is used to set the direction. The speed is controlled proportionally by the ratchet stick.
Both types will work best with 2.4 Ghz stick radios. I still have a few of the old EVO systems still available suitable for the LGB mogul locos, but they are not advertised anywhere.

TonyWalsham said:
Thanks for the compliments Bob. The early RCS EVO ESC's are momentum only type R/C throttles. That is the elevator stick is used for both speed and direction. You ramp up the speed and once the desired speed is obtained the stick is let go and the locos continue at that speed until told to do something else. The latest RCS PRO series ESC's are fully digital proportional in speed control. The elevator stick is used to set the direction. The speed is controlled proportionally by the ratchet stick. Both types will work best with 2.4 Ghz stick radios. I still have a few of the old EVO systems still available suitable for the LGB mogul locos, but they are not advertised anywhere.
Tony what are you asking for, for this system? Sounds like what Im looking for. I like simple

PRO is A$89 for the 3 amp. These have both directional lighting and 4 x sound triggers.
EVO is A$79 for the 3 amp. No lights or sound triggers.
Being quite small they will both fit and allow plenty of room in the tender for batteries.
LGB locos waste the first 5 - 6 volts for their lights and smoke unit. If you are not rewiring the LGB motor to direct use, you will need around 18 volts to achieve a decent top speed.

Tony I dont plan on using the smoke so the EVO should work? Whats the shipping look like to NJ? Would I need anything else besides batteries? I also sent you an e-mail. Thanks for your help

Ship me one as well Tony and put it on Shawn’s credit card please!
:wink:

Hi Shawn.
LGB locos generally (the mogul included) soak up the first 5 - 6 volts from an ESC so that you can have lights and smoke when standing, whether you have the smoke unit turned on or not. They do this before the motor sees any voltage from the ESC. Although the motors are quite happy with 14.4 volts 5-6 volts has to be added as well, meaning you will need around 18 volts. That means a physically bigger battery pack and there may not be enough space in the tender.
I would suggest you try the loco on track power, measure the voltage on the track going to the loco at the top speed that suits you. Add a volt or so and that is the voltage of the battery pack you need.

  1. The really easy way out of that is to have everything inside a trail car and power the LGB loco from the trail car. That way you can have quite big capacity batteries for a longer run time. Most LGB locos also have a socket on the back of the loco which can be used to connect the trail car to the ESC.

  2. If you want everything on board the loco and are comfortable with some rewiring, what I normally do is isolate the motor from the LGB electronics and power it only from the ESC. Then you could power the LGB electronics direct from the battery pack. There would be no lag from applying the throttle and the loco moving.

You will be faced with this choice no matter what brand of R/C ESC you choose.
Plus you must isolate the loco from the track. All you would have to do is remove the loco bottom plate, remove the two metal strips under the motor to isolate it from the track and replace the bottom plate.

For both methods, apart from the batteries, you will also need an ON - OFF switch, suitable fuse and a method of actually charging the batteries without removing them from the loco/trail car.

I offer kits for that purpose. Different ones for on board and trail car.

Air Postage would be free.

TonyWalsham said:
Hi Shawn. LGB locos generally (the mogul included) soak up the first 5 - 6 volts from an ESC so that you can have lights and smoke when standing, whether you have the smoke unit turned on or not. They do this before the motor sees any voltage from the ESC. Although the motors are quite happy with 14.4 volts 5-6 volts has to be added as well, meaning you will need around 18 volts. That means a physically bigger battery pack and there may not be enough space in the tender. I would suggest you try the loco on track power, measure the voltage on the track going to the loco at the top speed that suits you. Add a volt or so and that is the voltage of the battery pack you need.
  1. The really easy way out of that is to have everything inside a trail car and power the LGB loco from the trail car. That way you can have quite big capacity batteries for a longer run time. Most LGB locos also have a socket on the back of the loco which can be used to connect the trail car to the ESC.

  2. If you want everything on board the loco and are comfortable with some rewiring, what I normally do is isolate the motor from the LGB electronics and power it only from the ESC. Then you could power the LGB electronics direct from the battery pack. There would be no lag from applying the throttle and the loco moving.

You will be faced with this choice no matter what brand of R/C ESC you choose.
Plus you must isolate the loco from the track. All you would have to do is remove the loco bottom plate, remove the two metal strips under the motor to isolate it from the track and replace the bottom plate.

For both methods, apart from the batteries, you will also need an ON - OFF switch, suitable fuse and a method of actually charging the batteries without removing them from the loco/trail car.

I offer kits for that purpose. Different ones for on board and trail car.

Air Postage would be free.


Tony thanks for all the help. I want to keep everything in the tender. Rewiring sounds like it wont be a big deal. Whats the best way for me to order one from you? I guess you take Pay Pal? Thanks again.

Hi Shawn.
My E mail reply to you has been bounced by:
Recipient: [email protected]
Reason: 5.7.1 Service unavailable; Client host [61.9.189.234] blocked using rbl.ptd.net; Listed by PTD SpamTrap, see http://www.ptd.net/RBL

Please enable [email protected] to be accepted.

Tony I sent you an e-mail with my work e-mail. Try that one. Not sure why my server wont except your e-mail strange. Let me know how you make out with my work one.

I received my EVO in the mail. next step is to instal it all into the Mogul. Tony do you have any pictures of instalations using the evo in a mogul? Thanks again.

Hi Shawn.
I recently did a Mogul with the new RCS digital Proportional RCS fitted.
This was set up for track power only but I made allowance for 2 x 7.2 volt battery packs in series to be added if the owner decided to go for battery power as well. I did take a few pics but will have to have a poke around my computer to find them when I get back home on Sunday afternoon.
For a battery only set up I would use option # 2 listed above.

Shawn said:
next step is to instal it all into the Mogul.

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/89/Bomba_atomowa.gif)

:wink: