I’m newer than new to this DCC. I’m currently setting up an L rail system in my basement.(yet to be named) I am considering going to DCC for that line.
What I need to know is where do I find information on setting up the track and what I need to buy for the controler, and what changes I need for my locos.
What sys is the best for my hard earned money.
Thanks for your help
David,
What do you mean by “L rail?”
There are many different DCC systems out there. The first thing you need to do is sit down and write out what it is that you want to do with DCC. Then look for a system that meets those needs. Once you have written down your needs, there are those who have a lot of experience with DCC who can help you out.
Myself, I run battery power, primarily because most folks won’t trust me with a light switch. :lol:
Steve Featherkile said:
David,What do you mean by “L rail?”
L-Girder maybe?
Elevated such as in Chicago?
Humm… I thought you guys were from the city.
An old country bumpkin like me knows that L means Elevated.
I’m still dumber than dirt when it comes to DCC.
You guys are in the know, even if you didn’t know for sure what L meant. 
Well I have 5 locos, LBG-2, Bachmann-2, Pico-1.
Control 2 trains on the same track at the same time. Sound, the only one that has sound right now is the shay.
But I may want to add sound later to the other locos.
I guess thats it.
Thanks for the help
David
The L is short for elevated I did a heap of figuring, and what I come up with is that I am not going DCC… It is just too much money. I might look in to adding sound if it isn’t too much money. Can any one tell me if there is a way to control sound in analog? . So far I have the track bed 3/4 finished I’m fabricating my wall braces out of 7/16th ply wood and 1 inch oak for bridges over the double window. all the walls are done. all that I have to do is in the back where I have to hang it from the celling. and the switches for the 2 sidings for car storage. I’m kicking around putting Fallen Flags from the area on the bridges. I came up with a name for the line. It will fit in my theme really well. This line will be known as the “Heritage RY” Big logging area in the late 1800’s early 1900"s. Hard to find good pics of the times though. I did find a pic of the White Deer & Loganton RY. They used Climax B double truck might be a 28 ton wood burner 36" gage. The history is interesting, but they had little use of preservation for the future. I guess when you have so much it’s hard to save for future generations.
I’d like to see what you are doing to support the track for the L. Regarding DCC, I think you’ll find no cheaper way to independently control trains with sound. Battery power is just, if not more, expensive and requires someone to install or time consuming if you do the conversion yourself. Batteries also need to be maintained. Check out some well know brands like NCE, MRC, or Digitrax for the large scale versions. Decoders are coming down in price and many locos are presided to accept them.
It all depends on how elaborate David wants to make his system and the amount of money he has/wants to spend.
David has only five locos. It is around that quantity that the cross over point for competitive pricing occurs between track powered DCC and regular battery power with directional constant brightness lighting & sound trigger functions.
More than 5-6 locos and I grant you indoors track powered DCC gains an advantage.
By the time you add up all the costs of the track alone, especially with expensive metal joiners between each section of rail, you will find battery R/C is much more competitive cost wise than might be imagined. If you use Aluminium track and not the more expensive brass or SS track the costs come down further.
The alleged high cost of battery R/C is just that. Alleged.
There are low cost ways of going battery R/C.
I have 6 Locos loco’s at present. But 6 are good enough for running one is DCC capable now. That is my 3 truck shay. I have a 2 truck Climax needs sound.
LGB 2-4-0 little PENNSY PASSENGER IT’S DC. No sound yet. Pico New York Cent 0-6-0 Saddle tank eng. needs sound thats DC. Bachmann Big Hauler 2-6-2
Utility Eng. Has sound such as it is. DC. New Bright The General "electric DC"sound “toy” Outside runner is LGB B&0 2-8-2 mogul With the Streamliner Passenger cars. That is ready with the DCC but will run DC that is what I run it with.
I use a MRC Control Master 20 for power. So what would I have to spend to change to RC?
I’m using 5/8 plywood with 7’ wall braces reinforced over windows and doors.
I have 5 doors and 1 double window. I am working on hanging from celling in back now.
I’m charging my batteries now, I will take pics tonight when I get home from work. I’ll post them.
I have half of my basement to work with.
It should make a nice run when I finish I will use old pictures and store fronts for deco.
The one pic I posted will he on therehttp://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/paps101line/_forumfiles/logging-0014.jpg
This is a pic that shows how little the trees were.
I would say this was a mature tree.
David
CEO Heritage RY
As promised her are some pics of my L RY that is under construction.
http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/paps101line/_forumfiles/PICT0125.JPGhttp://www.largescalecentral.com/chat/myfiles/dirlist.php?
This is in the front basement room that was at one time a kitchen & dining are while the up stairs was being built.
The track will run along the main beam and over the door.
I’m going to replace the light with hopefully something more Railroad ornate.
Light looks pretty railroady to me.
Here is the bridge at the double window I only took the side because there is too much light coming in to get the full window. The base is 7" wide with 1" x 4" x 5 1/2’ red oak on the top edges.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/paps101line/_forumfiles/PICT0128.JPG)
There are brackets made of oak on both ends. I can hang on this. It will hold any engine I own. Do you need more pics?
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/paps101line/_forumfiles/PICT0126.JPG)
This is Buck snort corner. The track has a 4’ turn LGB 1100 track. it is the narrowest turn all other turns are 5’. That is due to the angle of the wall at the closet door.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/paps101line/_forumfiles/PICT0129.JPG)
The hall way with the unfinished ceiling to the back room where I have to hang from ceiling. Hallway is 20 ft long. and 32 feet to the back wall. You can see the wall braces better on these pics. Sorry for the poor pics I was a little shaky on the long exposure time. I had to pull the trim off of the doors to place the wall braces.( I’ll replace the trim when I finish track construction.) I have 3 doors on the other side of the hall way. This is where I am at now construction continues.
Ric Golding said:I agree. Ralph
Light looks pretty railroady to me.
No matter that light has to go. It is too low. I have half of the track up. did test run for bad spots. Fixed 5 spots. Test run engine was PICO 0-6-0 saddle tank engine. It did a fine job. Didn’t even fall off.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/paps101line/_forumfiles/PICT0130.JPG)
I need to get new batteries for my camera it’s hard to get a good pic. It’s a little out of focus, but here it is crossing the bridge on a track test run. Engine 906 in all it’s glory…
Well I should have been finished by now, but I had to remodel the laundry room for my wife to keep her happy. Then my network system went out. I had to replace my router, so I went wireless and I also went to a laptop upstairs. I donated my Dell computer to my son. His computer went down from a strong storm at his place.
I think I’m good now.
Construction on the rail line will continue today.
Back to the original question, to set up your track, all you need to do is connect 2 wires. If you have reversing loops you spend $45 and isolate that section of track.
Wiring is dead simple.
For your locos, you have lots of options, you might indicate if you want sound. If you do, then I suggest you buy an “integrated” DCC decoder that has motor, light, and sound all in one.
The control over sound in DCC is way beyond any other system, other than the MTH DCS system, which has approximately the same capability. (Battery guys, don’t go here, I can control 30 individual sounds, fine tune the volumes and more)
Some locos come with a socket that makes it really easy, just 5 minute install. Others will take some hardwiring. It’s really not that tough.
On control systems, you can go from mild to wild on them. You might want an entry level system, but be aware there may be some limitations, that’s why they are cheaper.
Depending on how large your layout will be, you may only need about 5 amps capacity, that will save some $$.
Regards, Greg
I need a simple controlling device that I can control the loco’s from different areas. In the back I will have 2 switches for 2 separate dead end sidings to park trains that are not in use.
I also just remembered that maybe I may need an uncoupler or 2. Anyway I have 5 locos that need to be changed to DCC and have sound added to them.
What I would like to know is about how much money would I have to lay down to get this done?
I have about 175 feet of track not counting the sidings. My switches are LGB remote wired. Will I need to do anything to them for DCC?
