Phil, if your layout is outside, I suspect that you will be less than satisfied with electric switches, unless you can figure a way to waterproof them. I don’t know of anyone who has been able to do that, yet.
Now, before the usual suspects launch their attacks, this is the nature of electricity outdoors, not one manufacturer or another.
Steve Featherkile said:
Phil, if your layout is outside, I suspect that you will be less than satisfied with electric switches, unless you can figure a way to waterproof them. I don’t know of anyone who has been able to do that, yet.
Now, before the usual suspects launch their attacks, this is the nature of electricity outdoors, not one manufacturer or another.
OK Steve - you challenged so I’ll bite! It’s not so much of a problem with electricity outside as it is a problem with the electric motors and contacts surviving in a wet environment. Somebody living in the desert could probably get years of enjoyment with outdoor electric switches so long as there was no irrigation nearby.
OK, Jon, pick a few nits. (http://www.freerails.com/images/emoticons/gerg.gif)
“It’s not so much of a problem with electricity outside as it is a problem with the electric motors and contacts surviving in a wet environment.” That’s what I was trying to say, you just said it more eloquently. (http://www.freerails.com/images/emoticons/Moosie.gif)
BTW, have you ever seen what blowing sand from the desert can do to an electrically driven device? (http://www.freerails.com/images/emoticons/Mooner%20081.gif)
Thanks to all of you for your input…It is appreciated! I think at this point we are committed to some electric switches due to the nature of our layouts space and design. I’ll have to ask at the next club meeting what other members are doing successfully (or not) I’ve noticed most layouts have some, however, I am not sure anyone actually uses them during open houses… Perhaps, I should take out the pool and put the greenhouse back up, and move it all indoors.
Again thanks to all for your input!!! 
BTW
Do I need to anticipate any problems with other manufactures Engines & Rolling Stock with LGB switches?
I primarily run Hartland, Bachman ( Thomas series ) some Aristo and LGB
You shouldn’t have any problems with the LGB switches. They seem to be well designed.
there is a bombproof solution for wet weather electric switches.
the motors from central locking systems for cars.
they come sealed, and are made to survive car-wash streets.
they work on 12 to 14 V DC.
the only thing is, one needs less than ten thumbs to install them.
their way of action is slightly longer than that of switchmotors. so one has to build some kind of resort between the motor and the lever on the switch.
Phil Anastasia said:
Thanks to all of you for your input…It is appreciated! I think at this point we are committed to some electric switches due to the nature of our layouts space and design. I’ll have to ask at the next club meeting what other members are doing successfully (or not) I’ve noticed most layouts have some, however, I am not sure anyone actually uses them during open houses… Perhaps, I should take out the pool and put the greenhouse back up, and move it all indoors.
Again thanks to all for your input!!!
Phil, Sunset Valley offers pneumatic switch controls that work really well, and are not bothered by water or by sand. What a lot of folks do is operate by hand those switches that are easily reached, and use the pneumatic controls for the ones that are more difficult to reach.
Phil, I use the LGB switches with EPL drives and have had about 1 per year that needs servicing and I live about 30 miles from you. I have 11 of these outdoors for over 10 years now.
However I do not have any water features on my layout, but do water the flowers with a sprinkler a lot in the summer.
Biggest issue is sand from the ants.
Dan - Good to know, My Waterfall, & Pond should not wet any of the switches where they’ll be located, nor have I seen any evidence of ant activity… My biggest problems maybe access to the switch locations once installed, and my daughters Saint. Bernard who eats everything, having a particular fondness for TV remote controls, figures, plastic buildings, landscape timbers, and Solar & Low voltage lighting… BTW - I’ll being seeing Bill this AM (Friday)
Phil
Excuse my ignorance, but what does “EPL” stand for?
Lou,
This should help explain…
http://www.gscalenews.com/information/electric-switch-control
EPL=Ernst Paul Lehmann
I had LGB 1600’s outside for 18 years with only one problem switch. They were wired for about five years with 12 volt dc and double pole double throw toggle switches. It was more fun to walk with the train and throw the switch manually.
Interesting, verrrrry interesting!
I think I’m all set now, thanks to all…
For some of the reasons posted, I have changed over to all manually operated switches. My electrically driven EPL switch drives, along with the 12070 supplementary switches and the 17100 contacts started to take more of my time maintaining them than I was willing to give them.
I have 4 electric lgb switches outdoors since 2000, and they run fine ! Even in snow …as long as the points and bar are clear of debris. Just clean around them occassionally with a compressor (after doing your monthly chk of your household vehicle fleet tires) !
Albeit the furthest one will buzz but will not complete flipping over. I’ve read where it likely needs a booster of some sort on it !
doug c
Doug Cannon said:
I have 4 electric lgb switches outdoors since 2000, and they run fine ! Even in snow …as long as the points and bar are clear of debris. Just clean around them occassionally with a compressor (after doing your monthly chk of your household vehicle fleet tires) !
Albeit the furthest one will buzz but will not complete flipping over. I’ve read where it likely needs a booster of some sort on it !
doug c
It also depends on how damp the location of your switch drives is.
Waterproofing LGB’s electric switch motors can be done by an external solution: Make a simple RR yard tool box to cover the switch motor. I cut an opening for the operating slide. The main advantage is cutting down on the Rainbird water blast on the top of the casing and entry point for the wiring. True, you will need to keep the material thickness thin on the track-side wall of the box resting on top of the ties. Be sure to provide entry for the wiring.
Wendell
To add on to Wendall’s solution… provide good drainage underneath the switch motor by putting an inch or so of crushed rock underneath the motor to wick the water away.
