Lou Luczu said:
It works if I apply power to one of the 2 connectors. I just can’t figure out where the 2 connectors connect to and how I get track power to turn the wheels.
Surely the other 2 are to the wheel pickups? This is a standard Aristo Doodlebug motor block, which I think is the same as the FA ? Someone must have fixed one. Lou - I found the exploded parts diagram if you want it - but it doesn’t have a wiring diagram. Doesn’t even show the wheel pickups; just the motor feed.
It’s 2 wires like a wash machine …hot and cold
It would appear that connector LL takes the wheel pickups (strips X,Y in front, wires Z,AA to the rear) and brings them to the top of the truck. Connector KK just links to the motor.
Is this too obvious? Connect the 2 connectors together for track power?
Lou Luczu said:
Is this too obvious? Connect the 2 connectors together for track power?
Yes, I guess so. Should be quite easy to test with a meter set to measure ohms?
Lou Luczu said:
Is this too obvious? Connect the 2 connectors together for track power?
Yes, exactly. Polarity will determine direction. Simple as it gets.
Hook it up Lou!
Progress Report:
And these are the connectors I was talking about. Then I realized I have to figure how to get power to the headlights, inside lights, and red end lights.
BTW the “Front” is to the right in above picture. The Postal End is the “Back” and needs to have the red end lights and the pantograph.
Then I guess you will be doing a bit of wiring. you may want to consider a center off polarity switch while you are at it (like recent Annies). Handy for parking on a powered track. If you can rustle up a connector/switch board from a battery conversion job you can save yourself a little work. Personally; I’d just scratch build whatever I need. It’s not complicated.
Says you.
I’m lucky if I can put a battery in a clock and have it work.
Lou - If you want to attempt it, give me a list of what the lights are (filament lamps or LED), how many, and where they are located and I’ll sketch up a wiring diagram for you. I can’t teach you to solder, but you could probably get away with using crimp connectors.
Also, do you want to be able to switch the lights on and off? Do you want the lights to be on when motor is off (parked on a powered siding)?
You will need to figure out which connector is the motor and which is track power. Not hard with a simple meter: Off the track, one connector will read infinite ohms (open circuit) - that one is the power pick up. The other will show low ohms (resistance ) and that will be the motor. If you don’t have a meter, a 9V battery and some wire will work. Motor will run, or at least jump, when connected to the battery.
Lou Luczu said:
Says you.
I’m lucky if I can put a battery in a clock and have it work.
Lou, I thought I left the wiring inside my original Doodlebug, some of which is in your MP-54? Take a look and see if it might be re-usable. This pic is on page 1.
Oh, is that what that was?
Lou Luczu said:
Oh, is that what that was?
Yes. I think it was attached to the body and the wires (including the rear passenger section,) are still in place. A marker lamp is missing, as you can see in the photo.
I remember seeing it. I took it off and put it in a safe place.
???
Wow, I’ve been working on this for 3 years? I have the this-time-for-sure-absolutely-final paint job out side drying.
Oh yeah, now I remember, once I dropped it and it broke. Another time it was so badly aligned I had to break it to do over again. Anyway, this time it’s almost sorta done for sure.
You forgot the pictures Lou ?
Tomorrow. Paint is drying.
hey! you don’t have to hand-paint the pics!
they invented cameras.
So the reason there are no pictures today: windows fell out, engineer fell off, I couldn’t get the roof back on, when I tried, the doors fell out again. You get the general idea.
You can only throw these things against the wall so many times.
