At the ECLSTS I per-ordedred several sets of ProtoHandsTM from Geoff Ringle of Old Iron Designs. They arrived on Thursday and I immediately got busy converting cars from AMS, Bachman and the CVSRy Car Shops. I wish I had gone back and re-read the announcement thread Anyone tired of non working Glad Hands? because I would have remembered several of the installation tips Geoff offered. But I didn’t so a few mistakes were made. Fortunately they are easy to correct.
After I got about 10 cars converted I ran an operation to test them out. On the way out I took a few shots of my install on the various cars. Here is a set installed. On the right is a CVSRy car with an Ozark casting. The casting is a bit undersize for FN3 but the hose installation is easy…
Next is a Bachman car. I used 1/8" black heat shrink as an adapter to the oversize angle cock stub. This didn’t work well for several reasons; the angle cock is plastic so you need to be very careful about application of heat; both angle cock and hose are too smooth for the heat shrink to get a good bite, so I ended up adding glue. My close up reveals a bit of glue residue at the top of the hose…
Here is another CVSRy car. The Ozark angle cock on this one has a nub that the hose will push over eliminating the need for glue…
AMS cars are the most work and cleanest install. The stock hoses are glued on and are a tough to get off cleanly. The new hose install needs glue as well. I used 3M Emblem & Trim Adhesive with good results. I also tried CA glue but it sets up too fast. This close up reveals that I need to do a better job cutting the hose. I found side cutters to be the easiest, but a sharp Exacto would make a cleaner cut…
Finally, another Bachman car. I ran out of black heat shrink so I used the original Bachman hose with glue inside. This method works well, but I think just pushing the hose on with a bit of water for lube as Geoff suggests would look better…
I did not take any detail shots of the hands themselves, so here are a few of Geoff’s pictures…
Operationally they work better than expected. Most of my railroad is on the ground and I envisioned a bit of trouble making the connections when picking up cars. In practice it’s quite easy; couple the cars normally then push the hoses toward each other and they snap together. I did learn that using a metal tool to do the pushing doesn’t work so well, but turn the tool around and use the plastic handle at it’s all good!
I found hose length to be the biggest concern. Too short and they can’t connect. Just right (prototypical length) they work fine on straight track, but disconnect on curves. When cut extra long they drag on the ties when joined and don’t assume the correct attitude when joined without help. Just a little long and they still drag when uncoupled. Murphy’s 78th Law states that A Dragging Hose WILL Find a Snag, Stretch To the Breaking Point then LAUNCH To Parts Unknown. This law was field tested on the C.V.S.Ry. and found to be true.
For now, as I tweak operation I’m leaving the hoses a bit long (Geoff suggests to Err on the long side). To solve the dragging hose problem I fashioned some small hooks out of thin steel music wire that allow the hose to be hung from a rear grab. I’m running out now for some yellow paint for the hooks. When I get them painted I’ll post some pictures of them in use. Ideal hose length is definitely a trial and error process.
Overall I’m very happy with this product and will be ordering enough to finish outfitting my fleet. Operationally they add a bit more interest and realism when switching cars. Aesthetically they look much better than the stock glad hands from any maker.
I can’t really come up with a list of Pros and Cons. The only slight negative is strictly the installation / length tweaking issue that as I do more cars becomes less of a problem. I really think this is a great product at a fair price.
