Project #4: The LGB2018D-Mason Bogie

[PeterT]

Project #3 is a part-finished UK teak coach, which needs glazing and lots of outside beading. As my LNER B1 is stuck in MD and I have nowhere to run a beast like that in Florida, it has been relegated to being a Spring job.

So on to Project #4, the LGB2018D Mogul made in to a Mason Bogie:

When I inquired, I was told there was a UK guy who put these together. Nice brass chassis, delightful cab, a 6-wheel truck from combining 2 x 4-wheel trucks, and a central pivot for the boiler. The loco behind is a proper Fn3 model of a Mason, made by Rishon many years ago. The LGB 2018D is a bit bigger.

The loco has been sitting since 2022, before hurricane Ian halted all work in my condo. Before that time I acquired a spare wooden cab and a proper 6-wheel truck kit, left over from the MLS Mason Bogie class. I think they came from our BD (@rmccown-admin). I did build the truck and installed it.

However, you’ll note the “DSP&PRR” in that early photo. Whoever made it used the whole tender which threw off the proportions, so I had cut down the frame and mounted the truck. I cut the old tender down on my mini table saw. Here’s how it looked when I moved in a few weeks ago.

The spare tender had been acquired last year as a replacement for the side that I cut at the wrong place. This time I plan to have DSP&P on both sides!

You’ll also note the droop of the smokebox. The Mason has a pivoting frame, so there is no smokebox saddle to support it. A final solution has not been found.
What I did find was a plethora (!) of wires, most of which I removed. Many had connectors, except for some unknown reason the wires to the headlight. So the first task was to add a connector so the whole smokebox could be put to one side.

You might notice the brass plate inside the boiler. That’s the ‘floor’ for the battery pack - the pink 18650s visible in the prior pic.
I found a bad solder joint in the modified frame, so that’s next. Then new paint on the frame and chopping of the tender.

[rmccown-admin (Bob McCown (Admin))]

Looks good. Yea, I think I sold you at least the truck kit, if not the cab. That was the beginning of my “I’m never going to get around to building this in my lifetime” project cleanup.

The truck looks great!

[PeterT]

Finally got some bench time away from the endless Christmas activities (buy new tree after the old one floated away in Ian, etc.)

I started marking the tender, but I haven’t cut it yet. The original had a bunch of holes in the back for various switches, like the headlight (?) You can see them here:

So I had to start figuring out where the various switches would go. Interestingly, my new tender has a flat top, and the original (which I cut 3 1/2 years ago) has the top cut out. After pondering for a couple of days, I see no reason why the tender can’t keep it’s top, and I’ll mount the track/battery, on/off/charge and any other switches on the top under the top frame with the fences and coal/wood load. More on that when I get around to it.

As mentioned in my first post, I had to figure out how to attach the side of the frame to the strip supporting the firebox. I tried acc, and it didn’t take.

The side of the frame is very thick brass so I got out my mini-torch. It refused to fill with butane, and refused to light even when I thought it had some butane. Something happened since last time. Oh well, Harbor Freight has the little handheld for peanuts.
And I also thought I would probably demolish the frame if I started heating it with a torch, not to mention burning the paint.

So I drilled a hole 1/16th and tapped it M2 [very close size - the 1/16th is larger but the hole will take the threads.] And I went looking for a hex-head M2 bolt. Nope, not in my steam-up toolkit, nor my small fastenings box, nowhere. So I had to use a round screw head.

I’ve ordered some bolts, and I can swap it later. One problem is that if you search for hex-head bolts, you get round cap screws with a hex hole in them. Sigh.

[PeterT]

A side question for you electrical experts. I have a bunch of slide switches, but most are rated 0.5A at 50V or similar. I did notice that similar switches are rated 0.25A at 100V (e.g.)

Is a switch rated 0.5A at 50VDC good for 1A at 25VDC, or 1.5A at 18VDC?

[Rooster]

Depends on what you are turning on ?

[David_Marconi_FOGCH (David Marconi CHHNNG)]

@PeterT

hex-head M2 bolt

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809435688638.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!2.62!2.41!!!!!%40!12000049661092151!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256809435688638&ds_e_product_merchant_id=109375264&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=19419176312&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19419169321&gclid=Cj0KCQiAosrJBhD0ARIsAHebCNr5njYIhZ4SxJEXkaXCyLY1Tcun-X8IdDzcPUsQgKu2lyXWPU1sdSoaAqvTEALw_wcB&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[Phoxtane (Benjamin Engel)]

Sadly, switches generally don’t derate like this. Some datasheets will even specify a minimum current (“wetting current”) the device needs to switch to guarantee a long service life.

Generally speaking, AC current ratings will be higher than DC current ratings, since it’s easier to stop an AC arc than a DC arc - the alternating polarity tends to extinguish an AC arc.

Here’s an example of a single-circuit on/off toggle switch that will switch up to 4A at 30V DC, with the minimum current/voltage being 0.1A at 2V DC. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nkk-switches/MN11S2A1W01/20838938 (No affiliation, this was at the top of the list when sorting by price low to high after setting the Digikey filters).

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

I defer in depth knowledge to Benjamin, but to be honest, when doing a model RR install I’ve never really paid any attention to the ratings. I usually buy based on size and function. The last toggles I purchased that have been used in many of my RailPro conversions were SPDT toggles with only an AC rating of 5A at 125VAC or 3A at 250VAC.

What you risk with an under rated switch is failure in either the open or closed state. If this will be a keeper for you I’d go with what you have and risk it. If you are building for resale, then buy heavier switches for $.50 to .60 each in small quantities on Amazon.

[Neil_Wiggins]

Unfortunately Pete, no. Voltage is voltage - as long as it’s rated well above whatever your using. Current is what you need to switch. Use a safety margin (or risk early failure).

There’s a whole lot more behind it, as Phoxtane is suggesting - but that’s the gist of it.

Cheers
N

[PeterT]

@David_Marconi_FOGCH

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809435688638.html

Thanks David, but I already found some at Accucraft slightly cheaper than that (!)

[PeterT]

@Phoxtane

Sadly, switches generally don’t derate like this.

Oh well. Guess I need some 5A switches.
Apparently my local Ace Hardware sells slide switches for vacuums (!) I’m going in this afternoon so I will see what they have.

[PeterT]

My 240V 3A slider switches turned up last week, and I got a brief respite from family obligations to do a little work on the Mason.

First was to touch up the paint on the frame where I had shortened it and added brass plates. The new paint was “Claret”, and in person it doesn’t look as different as this pic shows.

The I got out the mini-table-saw (Micromark - can’t say enough good things about this device.) I mounted the 80-tooth blade, which I found works best for cutting plastic.
After lots of measure-twice/cut-once moments, I managed to cut my new tender so that I have DSP&P on each side. [You can’t see it, but there’s actually an additional “.” after the DSP&P on the left side. I’ll have to sand it off.]

I also arranged the cuts so that one side and the back, plus most of the top, are still in place, so I have somewhere to mount the on/off switch and fewer joints to make.

[PeterT]

The kids left, so I finally got a few minutes to work on the Mason.

Funny thing - a few days ago a guy on FB said he was chopping an LGB coach and what glue did we recommend. I told him what I used - the Model Masters plastic cement, in the triangular bottle with the needle applicator.

So a day later I’m working on the holes on the tender top for the switches, and the joint in the side falls apart!
The FB guy had already queried the cost of my glue - $40 on Amazon!! Mine was bought years ago, and I wonder if some of the MEK has evaporated?
I re-glued my joints with Plastruct Plastic Weld (orange bottle) which is holding up so far.

Anyway, after I glued the side piece back on, I erased my extra ‘dot’ with emery using a pencil eraser to spin it on the paint.

Then I started drilling holes for the switches. About halfway through, I remembered I had a rotary cutter bit, which helped clean up the bits between drilled holes.

I am not a fan of that rotary cutter. I used one to cut windows in the end of an Accucraft coach, and it will wander as the cutter grabs the plastic. In theory, a vertical drill press and a metal guide would do a better job, but, while I have a stand for my dremel, it wasn’t worth cutting metal to make it neater.

Then I straightened the edges with a file. (The switches aren’t quite as angled as the pic makes them look!)

I then cut a hole in the tender deck, the piece with the coal which clips on the base. This time I remembered I do have a cordless Dremel, so it made short work of the sides. A bandsaw would have done a better job, but there’s no room for one here in FL.

[PeterT]

More work on the inside now that the switches are in. This spaghetti is a Revo sound board with a Sierra sound board. Eh? What?

Some weeks ago, I took it out and tested it, adding a speaker to the Revo, and then again with a speaker on the Sierra. The Revo is a Diesel sound card, which explains why someone added a Sierra. [I do know someone who has a steam Revo in a diesel loco - perhaps a swap is called for? Or maybe someone has a non-sound Revo receiver that they can sell me?]

Plenty of room for all of it, and that meant a speaker would be needed, with a baffle cover.

I have plenty of speakers, and my wife buys tea in small tin cans which are a perfect diameter.

Micromark sold me a ferrous cutting disk, which does a great job of brass [they haven’t stocked the non-ferrous for years.] It would clearly do this tin, and here’s how I cut a proper piece out of a round object - just spin the object against the stop while the blade is cutting.

I was surprised how thick the steel under the tin was, and I will have to paint the edges to avoid rust.

Now I have to attach both to the floor of the tender, under the switches I think. I had to drill 2 holes in very hard 1/16th brass, using lots of cutting oil:

[Eric_Mueller]

@PeterT

I also arranged the cuts so that one side and the back, plus most of the top, are still in place,

Beautiful saw work! It’ll inspire me when we do battle with the MIK!

[PeterT]

Here’s the Revo and the Sierra that are going in initially. I may choose something else - it’s offensive to have a complete sound receiver and then need another sound card because it is the wrong type (diesel.)

I got most of it wired up cleanly and ready for the boards to be tied down. I even plugged in the battery and the sound woke up! The charger socket worked, so we were heading for a full-blown test. Then I knocked the tender off the chassis and off the bench.Several wires on one of the switches were still connected, so as it dropped it ripped the top off the slide switch.

Sigh.