Considering the posts on “screws that fall out” in Bachmann locos – and likely some others as well – is there a Loc-Tite product or similar product that will work on plastic? Am I in error the ‘hold-tight’ products for metal do not work with plastic?
Wendell
The issue with the screws seems to be machine screws to metal.
At one point, I purchased a bottle of 222 Lock-Tite and mailed it (all at my expense) to one of the Botchman Service folks, told him to have the management get a case of it, and use it on all repairs.
That was what, 10 years ago?
Last I heard, they still had not done so.
But, second run of the 2-8-0 had red Lock-Tite on the motor screws, you would about take the head off trying to remove them.
So, Ting and Co. know about Lock-Tite, but dollars to dog-nuts some bean-counter figured how many cents worth per loco, and sunk the idea.
Want to know about cost-savings?
Latest 4-4-0 (Lake colour), the wire bundles are STILL wrapped in narrow strips of masking tape.
Masking tape.
And, no strain-relieving hot-glue to the wires where they contact the board.
Hay we cut corners were ever we can to save money, those CEO’s need there bonuses.
I find most things that we buy today are made like crap. This is becoming the norm today. Jack up the prices and cut corners. It is hard to find anything made well today and if you get something with quality you pay a high price for it. Look at food products. I remember when I can get three sandwiches from a can of tunafish now I get one from a can. The other day I bought a thing of turkeyhill ice cream. I could not believe how small they got and the price is up. WTF is wrong with these companies. You wonder why the economy sucks. Prices are high and the quality is down. I can go on and on about products that use to be good and are now crap. You also have to put some blame on UPS etc… for broken products. I know people who worked for them and it is amazing the way the packages were treated. Littleraly throwing packages around. Overall quality has gone down on alot of products we buy today. Especially those from big rchain stores.
Wendell Hanks said:
Considering the posts on "screws that fall out" in Bachmann locos -- and likely some others as well -- is there a Loc-Tite product or similar product that will work on plastic? Am I in error the 'hold-tight' products for metal do not work with plastic?Wendell
You think the Chinee have time to lock-tight screws as the stuff goes down the assembly line?
There prolly lucky to get time to put one part on backwards, let alone squeeze a drop of lock-tight on.
I still say Bach should sell their Locos as kits. And their Spectrum 1:20.3 rolling stock as kits, too.
Almost (and sometimes over) a C note for a box car that isn’t as good as a Accu 50-80 dollar one.
John,
I guess I have a different opinion on the 1:20.3 Accucraft stuff compared to the Bachmann 1:20.3. My experience has been that the Bachmann is a condusive product to work with. Sway back flat cars, coupler pockets, wheels and parts staying place, except rail bearing boax covers that need to be glued shut.
How about this one for our small screws?
http://www.useloctite.com/products/product_details_threadlocking60a8.html
I read the LOCTITE product list - hmmm, no reference to screws in plastic. I have used CA glue to hold loose screws in plastic structures-- under the premise removal means replacement of the part as removal may damage it.
Any further appplication information re: plastic?
Wendell
Ric Golding said:Ric, It's just the Bach box cars that I have a problem with. The other stuff is nice. Especially the tanks and hoppers. But still awfully dear.
John, I guess I have a different opinion on the 1:20.3 Accucraft stuff compared to the Bachmann 1:20.3. My experience has been that the Bachmann is a condusive product to work with. Sway back flat cars, coupler pockets, wheels and parts staying place, except rail bearing boax covers that need to be glued shut.
A related topic:
Per Dave Goodson’s insight, one tip regarding plastic and screw holding: For applications whereby you know you will be removing the screws later (such lubing loco gears), apply some plastic compatible oil on the threads to reduce the wear.
RE: Plastic Oils–
I have had great success with Mobil One 10/30 wt. oil for all lubing – including (gasp!) the journals holding all axles on my freight and passenger cars. NO evidence whatsoever (in So. Calif and Living Desert layout) of accumulation of dirt. What does happen is s-i-l-e-n-c-e and ending the “squeak” of dry axles rubbing the plastic journals. Mobil One is one of the plastic compatible oils – sure cheaper than the LaBelle medium oil.
Wendall,
I’d trust chalk (painters or any you have on hand) to provde a removable secure joint just have to let it set up first.
Wendall,
As Dennis pointed out, correctly, the only Locktite we should be using is 222, because it is the only locktite they make for small thread bolts, etc.
As I was developing my new pilot truck frame, I needed to lock the bolts in place and allow the cross-member float on the bolts. I tried a few things and discovered that after starting the bolts in the holes, don’t put them all the way to the bottom of the hole, but leave a few turns, drop in some CA (Super Glue) and turn the screws back in the hole to the bottom.
I have had problems with CA in the past, but it seems to work in the metal-to-metal application. I have used this idea on other screws in plastic and that seemed to work also. I think it is worth a try.
Barry - BBT
CA works for me.
Barry and Fred-
Thanks.
Good idea: The CA drop into the thread hole, THEN finish tightening the screw makes sense as it will hold in plastic, yet, give way to a twist with a screw driver.
W.
Wendell Hanks said:If the hole is deep enough, putting in two short set screws generally keeps them from coming loose.
Barry and Fred- Thanks. Good idea: The CA drop into the thread hole, THEN finish tightening the screw makes sense as it will hold in plastic, yet, give way to a twist with a screw driver. W.
Walt