Large Scale Central

Power Source for Static Display

Problem Solving
#1

I’m a brand new G-Scale equipment owner. I’m in the process of setting up a static display with operating engine and lighted passenger coaches.

I don’t understand all I know about electricity. I’m displaying a Bachmann “Emma Nevada” G-Scale locomotive, two Jackson Sharp passenger cars and a Bachmann long caboose. I want to use live track with the engine drive wheels jacked so there is no friction. Power for the engine is through the tender. This is what I know about the engine’s power requirements: Starting voltage is actually a little high on this engine, with the wheels not beginning to turn until around four volts. This is so the internal electronics (lights and chuff sensors) are powered up and functioning before the locomotive begins to move. When it does start, it draws about half an amp. With the wheels slipping, the motor draws 1.9 amps and, stalled, it draws between 3 and 4 amps, depending on the voltage. Maximum speed at 13 volts is a sedate 20 scale mph, which increases to 30 scale mph at 20 volts. I propose to use a “BlueRail” bluetooth control to activate the engine. The “BlueRail” system operating range is between 9 and 24 volts. Overload protection allows 8 amps for .4 sec, 4 amps for 1 sec, 2 amps for 15 secs continuous, and 1.2 amps continuously. Since my engine will be operating in a “no-load” condition and drawing what I believe will be about half an amp, I’m looking for a power source with an on/off switch, voltage between 9 and 24 volts and I only need and a current of less that 5 amps I think.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

#2

I propose to use a “BlueRail” bluetooth control to activate the engine.

Nothing wrong with that, apart from the lack of sound. The Bluerail receiver will shut down if you try to overload it - which seems unlikely in your case.

#3

Why do you need a wireless control system without sound?

I’d set up normal track power, add an inexpensive sound system like a Dallee and call it a day. Use a cheap transformer like the easily available MRC 6200… no batteries, easy to power the coaches, etc.

Greg

#4

Sound will be Bluetooth to the living room stereo equipment directly under the display. I’ll get better sound using that equipment than a small speaker in the tender.

#5

i’d prefer the sound coming from the loco, syncronized exactly to the drivers down to the piston stroke, and I have gotten 4" speakers in tenders and 2" in the boiler.

you asked for opinions, my way would be more realistic and coming from the loco…

but sounds like you have your mind made up… so to run your train, instead of just a simple power supply you have to have your phone running and then send sound from your phone to your stereo, and all this needs to be on…

Hmmm…

Greg