Large Scale Central

Plastic wood ladder system?

I use Fr Fred’s method, a 18 x 18 x 1.5 inch cement block supporting a Deck Block™, (pics later), that supports a 4 x 4 that supports the benchwork. This way, frost heave is not a problem. I stole a pic from Fr Fred’s site. Take a look at http://ovgrs.editme.com/Track for how he does it.

(http://ovgrs.editme.com/files/Track/DeckBlocks.JPG)

Rick,

My post are about 28 - 30 inches deep. I drilled a 3" hole set my post then back filled and tamped as I went.
I had two come up about 1/4 - 3/8 ". I can push them right back down.

Don

Jon Radder said:
Ric Golding said:
How deep are your posts? Mine are 18 inches and I still have to push some of the ladder track down in the Spring. I think I'm getting expansion in the ballast during frost heave that is pulling it all up. The track is staying very level and usable but it still is moving.
I get the same ins some areas. The posts are down about 12" because below that is all rock. I was thinking it's water collecting under the post, freezing, and lifting the post up. In the spring it pushes back to exactly where it belongs with very little effort.
I agree.

Living in the middle of nowhere (New Mexico), I’ve been unable to find the 1x2 PVC/Plastic strips at either HD or Lowes for building ladder systems. So, I’m relegated to using 1x2 redwood or PT material. Those that have used the latter material, have you found the wood holds up well and especially the PT from twisting or warping? Not too concerned about bugs, mostly warpage.

You’ll be OK with either, Rich.

Fred (on this forum) is a big proponent of a simple PT roadbed, and sez it lasts for years. He’s in Ottawa, where it rains occasionally. I suspect you don’t have too much trouble with rain in the middle of New Mexico.

Trouble develops when you have wood in contact with dampness and it doesn’t get a chance to dry out.

I bet there are buildings within a day’s drive of you that were built a hundred years ago with ordinary wood, maybe never painted in their lives and the wood is still sound! (Paint can trap moisture, so it’s a bad idea on outdoor wood)

The solid plastic stuff is good in damp climates, or if your roadbed is in the ground, no denying it. The solid plastic stuff is dense and therefore heavy. I’m not sure that it’s even still being made. Today it seems you can only get composite, which has sawdust in it; that may be a problem if you install it in the ground, I don’t know.

If you search online you will also find a roadbed system that uses a bundle of three plastic electric conduits for roadbed. I bought some to experiment with, but didn’t like it. I also have a stash of plastic roadbed material - mabe 60 - 80 feet behind my shed. Came from another garden railroader, but I’ve had it there for years and haven’t used it…

After fooling with these other ideas, I’m building the actual roadbed that I really use out of cedar and PT. Works fine. I’m right on the Great Lakes, where, believe me, we get rain. (every day this week so far…)

Both Fred and I mostly have our roadbed high and dry on legs above the ground. I have some of mine on higher ground, where I used cement blocks and pavers for a roadbed - doesn’t rot. I would be inclined to use cement products anywhere my roadbed was in the ground.

I have a buddy here in Toronto, though, who used PT roadbed on the ground, and ballasted over it. He says it has lasted 14 years so far. It still seems in good shape, except at the cut ends, which he neglected to treat. Lesson there.

Hope this info helps you make a decision; good luck with your pike!

OH, you were asking about warpage, not rottage!!!

Choose your boards carefully, Rich. Check that endgrain. You want boards where the grain runs up and down, parallel to the short dimension.

When you look at the flat of the wood, it should have fine parallel grain, not large swirls.

It’s all about how it was sliced off the the log at the mill. Wood with the kind of grain I’m talking about may cost you a premium, but it won’t warp as much, that’s for sure.

John Le Forestier said:
OH, you were asking about warpage, not rottage!!!

Choose your boards carefully, Rich. Check that endgrain. You want boards where the grain runs up and down, parallel to the short dimension.

When you look at the flat of the wood, it should have fine parallel grain, not large swirls.

It’s all about how it was sliced off the the log at the mill. Wood with the kind of grain I’m talking about may cost you a premium, but it won’t warp as much, that’s for sure.


Another thing you want to avoid is having the central circle of the tree rings contained within the board you are using. Warp city.

Rich Niemeyer said:
Living in the middle of nowhere (New Mexico), I've been unable to find the 1x2 PVC/Plastic strips at either HD or Lowes for building ladder systems. So, I'm relegated to using 1x2 redwood or PT material. Those that have used the latter material, have you found the wood holds up well and especially the PT from twisting or warping? Not too concerned about bugs, mostly warpage.
Go with the redwood Rich! ;)

What Rooster said. If you use PT boards and rip them into ladder material they will go everyway but straight. PT boards are not meant to be ripped into smaller strips.

John, Steve, Dave, Randy:
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like PT would work if I don’t rip it, and makes sense. Redwood sounds like the best option. I’m off to HD to get some tomorrow. Redwood I know is available there. I’m rearranging track work to include a new overpass (another thread) and want to start using the ladder system on those new alignments. I originally used exterior 1" thick foam strips as a roadbed foundation that has worked well for the past twelve years or so. However the ladder system seems better suited for these changes (will be easier to ensure a consistent grade and level) and for other locations that are due for maintenance and upgrading. John, you’re right about our climate…not so wet, but dryness and heat does have an effect on wood outdoors, even buried. In garden locations however, redwood bender board has held up well and not deteriorated. Hmmm, now that I think about it, perhaps bender board (3/8"x6"x16’) if ripped and used with good blocking, might work. Might try some of that. Thanks again guys.