Large Scale Central

Plastic Adhesives

Modeling
#1

When Kitbashing a rail car, what is the best type of glue to use?. I am going to be lengthening a passenger car for a project this winter. What techniques have you guys used to re-enforce a railcars under carriage/body?. I have never tried this so was looking for some input… Thanks …Travis

#2

Regardless of what glue, butt joints are notoriously weak. Use a splice plate when you can.

Depending on the plastic, I’ll use solvent cement if it “melts” the particular plastic I’m using. Failing that, I’ll use OmniStick, Goop, E-6000, or other similar adhesive. (You can get one or the other of these at craft and/or home improvement stores. If it’s a particularly important structural joint, I’ll use screws in addition to the splice plate. If I can’t have the head of the screw showing, I’ll screw it in, then cut the head off and file even.

Later,

K

#3

Thanks Kevin, What I plan on doing is lengthening a jackson sharp type passenger car. i also will be adding detailed interior, so I am looking for my best option… Travis

#4

MEK in a needle bottle. It will bond any type of plastic together.

#5

I have used a solvent (glue) from the plumbing department of my local home improvement store. They have a solvent made by O’Tay (I believe that is the name) that says it will glue all types of plumbing plastic. I also use splice plates. You could use them inside the car and hide them under and beside the seats. Don’t be stingy with the size of the splice plate and make sure it bonds firmly and the glue sets up before stressing it any.

I have tried acetone and MEK, and they will soften and bond plastic. But in my experience, they evaporate so fast, that sometimes I didn’t get a good solid bond. Your mileage may vary.

#6

I still like using Model Master glue from testors. If its my buildings I use E-6000. I agree with Kevin and you will want to reinforce that joint.

#7

I find that PIKO Fix in the purple bottle with the needle applicator work very well on most all plastics…

For the larger applications like building and larger cars, I’ve used Plumbers’ Goop very successfully…

#8

Travis

I would like to ask what manufacturer’s car you are planning on stretching.

#9

Travis Dague said:

Thanks Kevin, What I plan on doing is lengthening a jackson sharp type passenger car. i also will be adding detailed interior, so I am looking for my best option… Travis

Travis,

I have an East Broad Top coach #12 that is a lengthened Accucraft J&S coach (or are you doing a Bachmann?) Pictures of the build are in one of my albums: http://www.largescalecentral.com/albums/view/11947 and there is a thread somewhere.

My local hobby shop has 3 different Plastruct plastic adhesives. I found the orange “general purpose” bottle will glue the Accucraft plastic.

Note - Accucraft paints most of the coach, and it is not always obvious. Scratch where you plan to glue, and if the plastic is painted, rub/scrape/sand it off. Accucraft paint is impervious to glue, so you end up with a weak joint that flakes the paint off the plastic. Ask me how I know. . .

#10

David Russell said:

Travis

I would like to ask what manufacturer’s car you are planning on stretching.

Daah…

I guess I missed that it was a Bachmann…Anyway I have had very good success with Weld on #3 and the Bachmann plastic.

#11

Travis, Ambroid ProWeld is a good glue. I have built several scratchbuilt cars and it will hold the plastic together. It comes in a 2 fl. oz. bottle with an applicator brush. I have used it on my styrene bridges that live outside year around and it holds them together in 100+ degree and 16 degrees as it is down here now. Give it a try.
Ron