Large Scale Central

Piko Glue problem

Modeling
#1

I have several Piko buildings to put together and using the UHU glue that comes with the kits is sometimes messy.

I was wondering what methods some of you used when putting the clear glass in the frames of windows and doors that will prevent the glue from oozing out and distorting the glass, getting finger marks on the glass, and preventing the fine glue hairs when applying the glue?

Cutting the clear sheet plastic is not a problem just the injected window glass insert and the glue application method.

I need help.

#2

I use a little Ambroid Pro-Weld (with the supplied little brush cap) on the clear window plastic. Doesn’t fog the clear. I get it down at the local hobby shop.
I use the same Pro-Weld on the whole kit, using a glass nose dropper for application.
Then I clear silicone the inside, using my finger as an applicator.

http://www.ambroid.com/Ambroid.html

jb

#3

I’ve had the Piko glue come unstuck after only a year outdoors. Anyone know of a good solvent-based cement to use, or is MEK a good (albeit nasty) one to use? Will it even work on the Piko plastic? Inquiring minds want to know.

#4

I prefer clear silicon adhesive to put my windows in buildings. It’s strong enough to hold everything in place, but I can remove the glazing when I want to repaint the building.

Later,

K

#5

I’m a bit busy right now but had to answer this one .
Use the PIKO glue to assemble the main building , it’s OK and works well . An alternative is Revell glue , the one in the little blue , long needle dispenser .
Windows ?
MEK every time .
Inspect the glazing , it sometimes has a rough side and a smooth side . You need the smooth side against the
frame , i.e., in contact as much as possible .
The trick is to hold the glazing in place , then get a drop of MEK on a brush , touch the tip of the brush gently to the junction of the glaze/frame in an area where clumsiness will not be too obvious (Top of window) . The brush has to be a fine tip one ; the MEK should shoot out of the brush like magic and run around the frame —actually not magic but "wicking " or capillary effect----if necessary , put a bit more on . Only practise will tell you how to do this properly , but I have glazed a whole rake of HO carriages without a stain on the glaze using this method .
Because , I am , after all , a smartass .
Mike

#6

Bob,
Pro-Weld is like MEK. It actually melts the two joined surfaces into one. It melts Piko and Pola. It’s great for styrene.
jb

Copied from their website:

Ambroid® PROWELD (2 oz. bottles in dispaly)
Description: Twelve 2 oz. bottles in convenient counter top display. Water-clear plastic fusing adhesive. Dissolves a thin layer of each surface to form a welded joint. The latest state-of-the-art approach to making fast, neat, positive and permanent bonds on ABS, Styrene, Butyrate and Acrylic plastics. Its unique “low surface tension” formula assures speedy absorption into the joint, resulting in superior bonds. Applicator brush included.

#7

Looking at the Pro-Weld, one question. How long does it take to setup or dry so you can use the window for install.

#8

About 5 seconds if you don’t get enough on with the brush. :slight_smile:
Experiment a little with it on scraps before you use it on the model.

On the kits, I apply it to the window frame, then snap in the glass as quickly as possible. If you weren’t fast enough, give it another coat of glue.

The glue is like water in consistency.

jb