Large Scale Central

Painting disaster!

Modeling
#1

I’ve been painting and undecorated aristo RS-3, as mentoned in another thread. I settled on Scalecoat II pullman green, because I found a can locally and it was a great match.

After much work I went to apply decals (from stan cederleaf) and when I oversprayed with krylon Satin , as per Stans instructions, the paint started wrinkling and crazing. The wrinkling even ate into the plastic and left a wrinkle pattern in some places.

I waited four days for the Scalecoat to dry, but I’m guessing I didn’t wait long enough. Now I have to remove the scalecoat and start again.

Any suggestions removing it? Mineral spirits don’t work, denatured alchohol sort of works.

#2

Brake fluid softens up a lot of paints, but check it on the plastic inside the body first.

#3

Once you get to the point of starting again, I’m not sure if more drying time will help. Sometimes the paints are just incompatible.

Some have had very good luck with a coat of future floor wax.
http://www.ndrr.com/rmr_faq/models/Future-Floor-Wax.htm
http://www.scale-models.co.uk/chit-chat/4936-future-floor-wax.html
http://www.j-aircraft.com/faq/future_floor_polish.htm

You’ll still want some sort of flat on top, and it doesn’t sound like Krylon will work. You might try Rustoleum - but I’d test it first.

#4
Bob McCown said:
Brake fluid softens up a lot of paints, but check it on the plastic inside the body first.
Brake fluid is supposed to be deadly to Aristo plastics.

-Brian

#5

You might want to look here for some ideas: http://theclubhouse1.net/FAQ/stripping.htm

Apparently he likes the Scalecoat wash away paint remover…

#6

I’ve had the wrinkling / crazing happen a couple of times. Once on a boat trailer with Rustoleum when I didn’t adhere to their re-coat window. Another on the bottom of an Aristo reefer when I didn’t clean before painting. In the second case it was the bottom so I decided it was natural weathering.

In your case it was probably an incomparability of paint types. I don’t know what scalecoat is but most Krylon is lacquer. It does not go over enamel that isn’t rock hard without trouble.

#7

UGH! What a stupid, messy job!

I tried brake fluid, it ate right into the plastic

The best way to get the paint off, it turned out, was to spray more krylon. I tried Krylon clear satin, Krylon camo black, and Krylon gray primer, and they all had the same effect on the Scalecoat–caused it to wrinkle and craze and come off. Spray it with some paint, then rub the paint off using a toothbrush or a scotch brite pad soaked in paint thinner. Ugh, a stupid, messy job. And the hell of it is I had a very good finish on it, it was nearly done

I’m going to repaint it in Krylon camo green, and Dave Funk recommended. If can find some

Remind me never to do this again

#8

Welcome to the club. I think we’ve all been there in some fashion. It’s never pretty. It’s even worse the second time.

I now try to use the same brand and type of paint for each coat…but I still forget sometimes.

I’m glad that you’re having some success getting the old paint off. I don’t think I would have thought about that solution.

#9

I have had this happen very occasionally. I use a clear overspray (have done for over five years) that is sold in craft stores. It is meant to seal oil paintings, photographs, cardboard, CD printed covers, etc. Every now and then, it will react with the underlying topcoat, causing wrinkling. It seems like Russian roulette. Out of twenty or so oversprays, only one time will it react. As I use the same underspray and the same brand of topcoat each time, then it is not a paint compatability problem, but seemingly the luck of the draw. Over the years I have painted thousands of models, down to ‘h.o’ and ‘N’ scale locomotives and rolling stock, so have some knowledge of applying spray paint, but it does catch me out occasionally. I never use ‘scale’ railroad paints (like Scalecoat), preferring high quality automotive underspray (inert on plastic) and quality spray enamel from hardware stores. Occasionally, I will use the Tamiya brand spray (excellent quality and finish, but expensive for the supplied quantity, requiring several cans, even for a small job) or the Testors enamel spray if I need a colour not available in the hardware store sprays. I never purchase the cheap spray cans from the automotive supply stores as they are simply rubbish and useful maybe for spraying the side fence.

In so far as paint strippers, then brake fluid is taboo on all plastic models. It will react with most plastics on the market today. Only viable option is 92% Isopropyl Alcohol, apparently available from pharmacies (drug stores?). Only drawback is that it is usually not available in bulk and must be purchased in very small quantities.

#10

Any of you ever try “Fantastic”? I’ve had real good luck soaking plastic that had paint on it that I wanted to remove.

#11

Mike, Sorry to hear of your paint ing disaster. I had it happen a few times myself. Scalecoat is a slow drying enamel. Spray bombs are usually a fast dry enamal or laquar and its the solvents that cause the fast dry property to attack prior color. I try to stick to same makers paints throught job. 92% alchol softens paint and varnish should help clean it off. Krylon cammo avail at Walmart. Gloss coat needed before decalling,use krylon gloss. To dull it use Krylon satin or for a neat dusty flat use the stuff that is for frosting window glass. I use it for sealing weathered frieght cars,and it’s tons cheaper than testors dullcoat. Always test for compatability. Good Luck on the redo…Dave

#12

Ouch! Sorry to hear of your paint problems – what a pain!

#13

I’ll second the Krylon satin clear. I use it as a final coat on everything. They also make a gloss coat to apply before you decal. Good stuff.