I’ve been given three VERY expensive coach kits to build for a pal here in yUK.
I’ve now completed two of them for which he is ecstatic, but the third one came part-painted with some kind of rattle-can automobile enamel paint that needs to be removed before I can start over.
Any recommendations for a stripper that will not harm the styrene of which the model is made?
TIA
tac
Ottawa Valley GRS
91% rubbing alcohol. 70% will work but takes much longer.
Hmmmm. Longer that what?
tac
Try the LHS for “Modelstrip”.
It needs painting on in a paste and then insert the whole model in a plastic bag and store in a warm place (airing cupboard) overnight. Wash off under running water using old toothbrush.
Repeat as necessary. (On the other hand…it depends on the paint)…but worth trying!
DOES NOT harm plastic.
Also…check this lot out.
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/33168-paint-stripping-a-plastic-body/
I have used a stripper designed for fiberglass with success on a USAT GP7 a few years ago as an experiment. Worked good, don’t want to leave it on to long if I recall.
Also tried a purple cleaner or Super Clean, its available under various names I had good luck, and later tried the diluted purple stuff in an old crock pot for paint removal and parts cleaning. Worked very good on rustoleum spray paint removal on an old LGB Mogul.
Others use alcohol with great success.
Small model railroaders have a product known as Scalecoat II, works good! A bottle costs about $8.00 if I recall and will do several G scale loco’s.
My favorite for paint removal, decals and such is a soda blaster cabinet, I built mine with a small glass bead cabinet and retro-fitted it for soda. Works GREAT on aluminum, plastic, fiberglass and other soft stuff. I saw a demo of a guy stripping the color or printing of an aluminum Budweiser can, it sold me. The soda is similar to baking soda, its not recycled and filtered like a glass bead cabinet, you get to use it once and them dispose of it.
Michael
Brake fluid .
Mike
tac Foley said:
Hmmmm. Longer that what?
tac
70% takes a couple of days verses the 90% that works overnight. Stay away for brake fluid, as it will eat the plastic away!!! 90% rubbing alcohol works really good and you don’t have to worry about the plastic being ruined. I’m speaking from experience on this!
Mike Morgan said:
Brake fluid .
Mike
If you want the details to be destroyed go ahead… The safe, easy, and cheap way is to use rubbing alcohol.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8356603982_d3a7771416_c.jpg)
Stripped with 90% alcohol over the course of a couple days.
Well , I have been using brake fluid for some time now , and it tastes quite good , as a good paint stripper should .
I have never seen it attack plastic ; I have stripped LGB bodies clean in a very short time using a toothbrush dipped in the fluid and rubbed on . I also use it on plastic kits , it has never done one iota of damage . Used carefully , it will remove lettering without touching the underlying paint .
If it’s so good at melting plastic , how do they keep it in plastic bottles ? Yes , OK , it’s a different plastic .
You don’t need to slosh a bathfull of the stuff and chuck the item in to soak , it’s a case of gently using it , and washing it off with warm soapy water . I suppose if you left it overnight to soak you may finish up with a puddle of plastic , but I have yet to try that .
If anyone should wish to try it , the usual rules apply , try a little on a bit of cloth , gently rub , preferably
where potential damage will not be seen , and keep it away from your eyes .
Mike
I think it must depend on the type of brake fluid used. I have used it for years to resurrect plastic model airplanes, that I messed up with bad paint jobs when I was a kid. I have heard horror stories about how it softens the plastic, or makes it so brittle the model can not be handled and such, but I have never had any problems using it.
But since the current wisdom is to go with alcohol, or a stripping solvent made for models, I would defer to that. Especially since you say its an expensive kit. No sense risking it.
Brake fluid attacks different types of plastics. Some are okay others are not. I’ve never heard of rubbing alcohol ever eating away the plastic doing that. I wouldn’t risk it on an expensive model! Same thing as using finger nail polish remover, it works some times, but not always. I wouldn’t recommend it either.
David
Have you seen the price of the paint strippers ? I assume you must have by the fact that you use brake fluid .
Model stripper (not those models , down , boy) takes a long time to work because they make it so weak to avoid costly payouts for ruining models .
Brake fluid would probably attack the plastic over time , just the same as it attacks car paintwork , but I do caution short exposure and immediate washing in warm water .
Given the size of the stripper bottles , imagine how many it would take to strip the Ge4/4 III LGB loco that I am in the middle of repainting .
Anyway , nobody is being forced to use it , I just mentioned a method that I use . Successfully .
I have seen crumbly plastic caused by oil contamination (not hydraulic oil ) , people use car engine oil to lubricate models , or even sewing machine oil . Not too sensible really .
Mike
tac,
Is there a painted door on the model you could remove and try to strip? Try the 90% alcohol, if it works quick enough for your taste then you’re away to the races.
AND it really depends on the “plastic”. (http://rhb-grischun.ca/phpBB3/images/smilies/3.gif)
End of coffee break; back to picking, pulling and schlepping.
Craig, yes, I can understand that different solvents (like brake fluid) will react differently with different plastics. That is why I commented that I wouldn’t risk it on an expensive model. I have used it without harm on 1:72 and 1:48 plastic (polystyrene) aircraft models.
Mike, yes, I am always looking for a cheaper alternative…less expensive alternative. I didn’t say anyone was being forced to use any product, I just mentioned that I have used brake fluid, kind of as a follow on to your post.
I have also removed lettering with a rag slightly dampened in lacquer thinner. I worked quickly and washed the model as soon as the lettering was removed. The only “harm” to the underlying paint, was that it had buffed up a bit shinier. I have also used brake cleaner to remove lettering, again, working quickly and washing the model as soon as the lettering started coming off.
But due to the cost of the model in question, and due to the fact it belongs to someone else, I would be cautious and use a less aggressive method to remove the paint.
David , I wasn’t directing the whole post at you , rather I was commenting on the reason for not using esoteric strippers (I love that word) because of their inflated price . I happen to use the commercial stripper on my model figures , but that is because of the need to strip a very small area .
The whole business of stripping models of paint has become something of a black art , and discussions on it can descend into rowdyism . I have no intention of having that happen .
I would advocate a careful approach ; if you feel uneasy about trying ANY method , don’t do it , you are modelling for enjoyment , aren’t you ?
The problem of selecting an appropriate solution is a difficult one for the inexperienced , and I would caution anyone asking for advice to be very careful of following it ; there are some mischievous buggers around who will tell you that a certain fluid works and you try it soaking for a couple of weeks and nothing happens , or the corollary of that and your model is ruined in a flash . I did hear someone say he stripped the paint off his window frames with a blowlamp and scraper , and yes , he was overheard and a model got ruined . Believe it , some peoples’ appreciations of material properties are non-existent . Heard about the bloke who “stove enamelled” his plastic model in a domestic cooker? Yes , it can be done , but there are a lot of things to know before you try and I am not about to encourage anyone .
So the choice is yours----that’s what this site promotes . Do what you feel comfortable with . Now I must get back to more modelling with automotive materials .
Mike
Mike, I thought you modeled in your armchair. 
Yes, caution is the word, until you know for sure that a certain product or procedure will not destroy your model. Knowing a bit about plastics, I do not try some “suggestions” I have received over the years. And I was told once that a certain product would remove the lettering from my hopper car, if I soaked the car in it overnight. 3 days later and the lettering was not even slightly faded nor softened. So I have been there, done that.
The alcohol works very well and so does Castrol superclean …but as noted I would try it on an out of sight area first
David M
Removing paint is a “using common sense and logic” operation. It starts with reading the labels of paint removers at the local wholesalers and retailers who carry those items. From HD to auto parts dealers. It’s one of those “not really rocket science” items.
AND don’t forget to watch the phase of the moon, it could make a huge difference. 
Hans, that would be true if I was using paint strippers that were made for stripping paint. Brake fluid isn’t strictly sold for stripping paint, and neither is isopropal alcohol.
I did use a stripper for aluminum, to strip a finish from aluminum once.
