Large Scale Central

Ozark Minitures Precision Board

So I’m about to build my station and I decided to purchase some Precision Board from Ozark Minitures. I can tell you that the detail is amazing. However, I’m worried about the construction. It starts out as a sheet of “styrene” (It is a blended product you can go to thier website for info), then it is looks like it was probably vaccum formed into a certain shape. This leaves a raised area underneath the detailed stuff. I’m afraid if something were to fall on it or perhaps hail, then the sheet will crack or crush down. I’m wondering if anyone has used this stuff. I reall think it is handy stuff but worried about durability. I’m thinking that I could pour casting resin in the void behind the detail and that would make it thicker and also more durable.

This is a photo of the top part of it. I hope you can see the detail because it is really excellent.

This is a photo of the backside. Any ideas?

How about using PVC foam board or acrylic behind it?

If you notice there is an irregular surface on the backside. Will the foam board fill in behind it?

No, it’s rigid foam. Didn’t think about that.

Something off the top of my head…Have you ever used that the expanding foam sealant you use on windows and doors. I was thinking that might work.

Something like Great Stuff? I’ve used it. It expands A LOT. You might be able to cover the backside of the board with it, let it expand and then trim flat with a long knife blade. I’m not sure how you would attach the results to any substrate. If you could afford 3M VHB foam tape it would work to attach the uneven board to a solid substrate. Stuff is way expensive though.

I’ve used it a LOT. I have backed it up with acrylic, foamed PVC board, and corrugated plastic. Never worried about filling any gaps. I’ve had one building outside for about 8 years and the only damage I see is where the acorns have hit it and chipped the paint; but, no dents. A touch up and it’s good as new.

Meanwhile, the cedar shingles have suffered a lot more damage.

I wouldn’t worry about it.

Hail’s another issue. I didn’t have anything outside when we had the giant hailstorm here about 15 years ago - and that required a new roof and all new siding on my house. I suspect my little buildings would have suffered as well.

Check my web site - you’ll see that most of my buildings have been done with that stuff.

Thanks Bruce. I didnt realize that you used this stuff. Considering the craftsmanship on your buildings then I think I’ll be just fine.

Do you make a core out of styrene or foamcore board then laminate the precision board over the top?

One your Barbershop and Drug Store…what kits are those? Or are they kitbuilt?

That looks exactly like the same stuff I used for my Gomez store front porch/walkway, although I got my sheets from a different supplier then Ozark:

(http://th00.deviantart.net/fs71/PRE/f/2011/353/3/d/gomez_store_by_southwestchief-d4jlpbt.jpg)

I simply glued it to a 1/8" thick styrene base. I used thick Ambroid styrene cement, trying to lay a nice thick layer to ensure good adhesion. I used styrene strips along the edges and used Ambroid ProWeld to glue these. As to durability? Well I can’t help much with that. I really baby this building. When not in use I cover it with an inverted plastic storage bin. I also bring it inside for long term fall/winter/spring storage.

A really great building Matt. I plan to keep mine out all year around.

Jake, when I read your post I got a bit confused because you referred to the Precision Plastic sheet that Ozark is selling as “board.” It is 0.030 in. thick sheet, which appears to be vacuum formed, as you said. FYI, this is the same stuff formerly made and sold by Precision Plastics of Lewiston, N.Y. which is near Niagara Falls. I think they were allowed to make it there because at one time that area was like chemical plant central (can you say, “Love Canal?”). Anyway, Ozark appears to have bought the rights to this product. As mentioned by some of the guys, many of us “glue” this material to styrene sheet, probably about 0.100 or 0.125 which is about 1/8 inch. This is pretty stiff, but even so the styrene will bow without bracing (I use 1/4- inch square styrene strip). BTW, I believe the reason the styrene sheet bows is because of the dissimilarity in the expansion rate of the thin Precision Plastic sheet and the much thicker styrene underlayer. In other words, the top layer shrinks while the bottom doesn’t, so it pulls up on it and ya got yerself a bow.

The guys here mentioned various cements. I use Weld On 16, which comes in a tube, is syrupy and take a few minutes to dry before it sets up. I don’t know about Amrbroid, but I would be careful what I use because some “glues” will eat plastic. BTW, these are not really glues, but solvent cements that essentially “weld” the plastics pieces by kinda causing 'em to melt together.

I try to apply beads of Weld On all over the sheet, kinda zig-zagging until I have laid enough of the stuff to ensure that somewhere along the line, some of it will stick to the raised areas of the Precision sheet, which, as you mentioned, is uneven. I guess you could keep spreading it on until you covered the entire surface area but that would be tedious. And, as I have found, if you get too much on in one place, it will start to eat the plastic sheet. To me, the perfect way to attach Precision Plastic sheet to styrene (or anything else) would be to use this plastic sticky tape (the name escapes me, but it’s something with Red in it), which Jack Verducci once wrote about in Garden Railways. It comes in sheets and ain’t cheap. But it will stick forever, and because you would be able to cover the entire area, not just those random spots where you laid down a bead of glue, you would be sure of prefect adhesion.

As for Precision Board’s resistance to dents and such–I don’t know if something like hail would hurt it, but if you take a swipe at it when you’re working on it, you can dent it. I know. I’ve done it.

Sorry to be so repetitive, but I had to get my two cents worth in. :slight_smile:

It does get brittle after it’s been outside for awhile. I have a lot of buildings made with this stuff and , like Bruce, they do hold up well. I have a couple of little buildings that are 10-15 years old. I use Goop to attach it to any surface. It comes in a tube and is a real thick adhesive. I just run a bead of that all over the surface, especially along the edges. It’s thick enough that the bead stays put till the veneer is laid on it. I’ve attached it to acrylic and coroplast in the last couple of years.

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/delores/delores029.jpg)

The roofing, windows, and siding are all Precision Products veneer glued to a coroplast shell. Here’s the finished model…

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/delores/del024.jpg)

Jake Smith said:
Thanks Bruce. I didnt realize that you used this stuff. Considering the craftsmanship on your buildings then I think I'll be just fine.

Do you make a core out of styrene or foamcore board then laminate the precision board over the top?

AND

One your Barbershop and Drug Store…what kits are those? Or are they kitbuilt?


Yes, you want a hard core form to glue this stuff to. Typically, I use the 1/4" foamed PVC board, but also have used 1/4" acrylic. The acrylic was nice because I didn’t have to glaze any windows. :wink:

The Barbershop and Drug Store are either Piko or Pola kits.

Thanks for the advice guys. I will be getting started on this project real soon.

Just a quick note about the “Great Stuff” Expanding foam mentioned earlier- It will expand ALOT!!! More than you’ll ever want on a model building. If you really need to do any type of “foam work,” try DAP Minimal expanding foam. Sold in the same aisle as “Great Stuff.” It’s used for insulating between door and/or window jambs on real 1:1 scale buildings. It doesn’t expand as much and keeps the jambs from bowing.

-Kevin.