Large Scale Central

Ordered some Bachmann brass track

Ordered some Bachmann brass track from that $1400 which today finally got to me who is living on Social Security Disability.

It will be the first outdoor G track I’ve ever had.

Got 1 box each of the 4ft diameter curve and the 1ft straights because they will fit on my apartment balcony just like the

tinplate track which came in the Big Hauler sets does.

–> Plan is to put an oval on the balcony and leave it out there.

It is molded in UV resistant plastic for the ties but I’m considering painting the ties and the sides of the rails for appearance.

–> I’ve not yet looked up how power attaches to the track. I have several of the attachments for the Big Hauler train set tinplate track.

And, eventually would like to get a pair of switches and those manual switch stands.

And then while browsing around the couple places I have usually gotten model train stuff, discovered in the “NOT NEW - USED”

section at Reindeer Pass, an Aristo Gentral of Georgia “football” boxcar, oh! I was mostly raised in the center of Georgia, gotta get that!

& a set of LGB Swiss train crew that I’d been wanting to get and repaint their uniforms for my freelance traction line; it was something like 30% off

because the guy with the “signal wand” was missing it, no sweat, I can make something.

Anyway, assuming the track is still in stock by the time Walthers gets my order processed, I will now be joining the ranks of those who have outdoor track

True, it will be on a little bitty balcony of an apartment, but it will be outdoor G track!

–> And then a different track related thing, a few years ago I got some aluminum rail from a member of Bachmann’s own forum & my intent is to use it on an 8ft display shelf on the living room wall,

the track will have live catenary, – I cut the rail in to scale 36 foot lengths, ? What would be good to use for rail joiners?

I have probably asked that before but I’ve not been able to either remember the info or find the info.

What I would like to do is drill the rails and bolt in actual fishplates, but with health what it is now that ain’t gonna happen.

–> Oh, another question, if on that display track which will have wooden ties (those were made a couple years ago) I want ties plates & can see cutting my own from sheet styrene but my hands have problems and say that ain’t gonna happen, not for even just 8 feet of track, is there a place or person where you can get like a bag of, say, 3d printed tie plates?

Ozark makes tie plates. White metal. I think they have ones that should work with code 332 rail.

Craig Townsend said:

Ozark makes tie plates. White metal. I think they have ones that should work with code 332 rail.

Ah, okay, that works!

Went to their website and searched for plate - turns out they have 3 different sizes, 332, 250, and 215.

Googled for Ozark’s website since I didn’t know it offhand or remember having it bookmarked - turns out I have it bookmarked, in the browser toolbar even, about 10th in the group which extends offscreen.

Oh well, that’s how it goes sometimes!

Forrest Scott Wood said:

Ordered some Bachmann brass track from that $1400 which today finally got to me who is living on Social Security Disability.

It will be the first outdoor G track I’ve ever had.

Got 1 box each of the 4ft diameter curve and the 1ft straights because they will fit on my apartment balcony just like the

tinplate track which came in the Big Hauler sets does.

–> Plan is to put an oval on the balcony and leave it out there.

It is molded in UV resistant plastic for the ties but I’m considering painting the ties and the sides of the rails for appearance.

–> I’ve not yet looked up how power attaches to the track. I have several of the attachments for the Big Hauler train set tinplate track.

And, eventually would like to get a pair of switches and those manual switch stands.

And then while browsing around the couple places I have usually gotten model train stuff, discovered in the “NOT NEW - USED”

section at Reindeer Pass, an Aristo Gentral of Georgia “football” boxcar, oh! (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)I was mostly raised in the center of Georgia, gotta get that!

& a set of LGB Swiss train crew that I’d been wanting to get and repaint their uniforms for my freelance traction line; it was something like 30% off

because the guy with the “signal wand” was missing it, no sweat, I can make something.

Anyway, assuming the track is still in stock by the time Walthers gets my order processed, I will now be joining the ranks of those who have outdoor track (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

True, it will be on a little bitty balcony of an apartment, but it will be outdoor G track! (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

–> And then a different track related thing, a few years ago I got some aluminum rail from a member of Bachmann’s own forum & my intent is to use it on an 8ft display shelf on the living room wall,

the track will have live catenary, – I cut the rail in to scale 36 foot lengths, ? What would be good to use for rail joiners?

I have probably asked that before but I’ve not been able to either remember the info or find the info.

What I would like to do is drill the rails and bolt in actual fishplates, but with health what it is now that ain’t gonna happen.

–> Oh, another question, if on that display track which will have wooden ties (those were made a couple years ago) I want ties plates & can see cutting my own from sheet styrene but my hands have problems and say that ain’t gonna happen, not for even just 8 feet of track, is there a place or person where you can get like a bag of, say, 3d printed tie plates?


Hmmm…I have some R1 switches if you are interested. Older, still workable.

Track arrived today. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)Was wondering what they did with the screws for joining rails, they are in place, remove and replace when joining track.

Hi Tim, Hmm indeed. This month even with the $1400 gift from the government I’m done spending money on hobbies for the month.
My SSD is about 17 dollars a month below the poverty level for a household of 1, so there are other places the rest of that needs to go.
And a fair chunk of it did get used on hobby supplies, now was the time, if ever.
Will be next month before I’m good for buying more hobby stuff.

Forrest Scott Wood said:

Track arrived today. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)Was wondering what they did with the screws for joining rails, they are in place, remove and replace when joining track.

Hi Tim, Hmm indeed. This month even with the $1400 gift from the government I’m done spending money on hobbies for the month.
My SSD is about 17 dollars a month below the poverty level for a household of 1, so there are other places the rest of that needs to go.
And a fair chunk of it did get used on hobby supplies, now was the time, if ever.
Will be next month before I’m good for buying more hobby stuff.

no charge. send a pm with your mailing address.

Forrest,

Looking forward to the pictures! After returning to the hobby a couple years ago, I realized I had lost an opportunity to participate by not seeing railroad potential on the various apartment balconies between high school and Hawaii!

Aloha,

Eric

Eric Mueller said:

Looking forward to the pictures!

Hey there. Since thanks to a constellation of neurological, endocrine, musculoskeletal, mitochondrial, I can’t guarantee when or even if there will be something to take photos of, here are a couple from several years ago when during a long dry spell I had set up some of the tinplate Big Hauler strain set track out there.

Eventually I added a couple of turnouts and a cutoff to provide an “alternate route” and/or a siding to switch cars out of either end.

Atta boy Forrest! I’m glad for you, that you have track down and a train running!

And your cat likes it, that’s a big plus!!

Cliff

Well, grumble. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)Seem to be short 1 curve.

Today is finally the day that works out for me to try assembling track.

Got some dieelectric grease for the joints.

Got some extra screws.

Decided to make subassemblies in the living room to reduce probability of dropping screws through the balcony boards.

And unless Grumman and Georgie ate it while I wasn’t looking the box of curves was 1 short.

Why couldn’t it have been short 1 straight?
Don’t need all those.

DO NEED all the curves. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)

Got a few R1 curves and a switch or three I could send you

Tim said:

Got a few R1 curves and a switch or three I could send you

Okay, appreciate that; what do you need to get them to Missouri from Alaska?

Forrest Scott Wood said:

Tim said:

Got a few R1 curves and a switch or three I could send you

Okay, appreciate that; what do you need to get them to Missouri from Alaska?


Send me a PM with your mailing address. Might take me a few days to get them sent, what with work and all. No charge.

My indoor layout used to be a mix of R1 and R2 curves - with all R1 switches. A few years ago I became unhappy with the R1 turns, so I went R2 all the way. Would have gone R3 if I could have afforded it. That left me with a couple circles worth of R1 curves - and a pile of R1 switches. I done gave most of them away, what you will be getting is the last of the stuff that’s any good. Switches are a bit worn and may require some tinkering.

I’ve successfully made R1 curves into straight pieces before if you’re willing to do some work. First take the ties off. Then cut the connectors between the ties so that they will lay straight.

Find your closest beer belly…

Put a section or two against your ( or your friends) beer belly and slowly bend the track straight.

Or if you have a vice you can do the same thing. Obviously it won’t get as smooth as using a rail bender but it will get you decently straight track.

Once you have the rail straight put the ties back on and you’re back in business.

Will make a note of that.

In this case the need is to end up with a curve.

Tim said:

Send me a PM with your mailing address. I done gave most of them away, what you will be getting is the last of the stuff that’s any good. Switches are a bit worn and may require some tinkering.

Message sent.
That’s okay, a curve that’s any good is definitely an improvement over a foot long hole in the track.

It’s probably a bit easier to belly bend straight into curve vs the other way around. 332 brass takes a bit but it will slowly move for you. Same idea of snipping the ties apart. Just go every other side to start with.

Craig Townsend said:

It’s probably a bit easier to belly bend straight into curve vs the other way around.

The wrinkle in that fabric is that while normally that would be no big deal, the new normal is inflammation, pain, and spasms, in my hands & the outside rail would require cutting and splicing additional rail to make the length;

I have an old Aristo single rail bender I do not need. It will bend a curve piece of rail back to straight. $10 plus shipping from 02766.

PM me if interested. Should fit in USA postal box with handle removed. This is a heavy piece of metal!!

track is on the way, should be there Saturday