Large Scale Central

Operating Signals

General Discussion
#1

Operating, as in actually being used for something more than “Trackside scenery”

How many, if any of you use signals as the prototype do.

The question arises, as I have to construct 4 of them to protect a crossing of the IPP&W by the branch line RP&M.
Mine are to be very simple; just one Red/Green LED per mast. I may avoid mounting the heads on masts, due to the possible destruction of them by normal outdoor activities, around their location. Possibly using dwarf type signals.

These signals will be controled by the dispatcher, in his shack.

I intend to actually start building these four signals, after a long period of procrastination, and numerous discussions on the chat

I’m just interested in any last minute suggestions from experienced OPERATORS out there.

NO… I’m not about to purchase any of the ready made signals out there…too rich for my budget, no-mater how great they look. My only other option is to look at the Toy Train market, where some of the so-called “O” scale stuff could be usefull, if it is available second hand, without looking at Collector’s prices.

Needless to say; I’m not too concerned with dedication to actual scale. I just need working signals that the train crews can actually see, in order to protect the crossing, but look OK to the average guy like me.

#2

As I pass through Lumberton NC on my travels southward, I go over a RR overpass. There’s a diamond below it with a swinging gate with a stop sign on it controlling the x’ing. I’d get a pic of it, but there’s no place to pull an 18 wheeler over and park it.

#3

Yes, Ken…that was another option, that I think you and/or Ric posted a while back, on a chat or something. I’m still drawn towards the light signals, but the gates make great sense, as long as the operaters heed them, and don’t just run like hell at them…!!!

#4

Ohhh No!!! Signals! Next the IPP&W will be a computer controlled roundy round!!!

#5
Fred Mills said:
Operating, as in actually being used for something more than "Trackside scenery"

How many, if any of you use signals as the prototype do.

The question arises, as I have to construct 4 of them to protect a crossing of the IPP&W by the branch line RP&M.
Mine are to be very simple; just one Red/Green LED per mast. I may avoid mounting the heads on masts, due to the possible destruction of them by normal outdoor activities, around their location. Possibly using dwarf type signals.

These signals will be controled by the dispatcher, in his shack.

I intend to actually start building these four signals, after a long period of procrastination, and numerous discussions on the chat

I’m just interested in any last minute suggestions from experienced OPERATORS out there.

NO… I’m not about to purchase any of the ready made signals out there…too rich for my budget, no-mater how great they look. My only other option is to look at the Toy Train market, where some of the so-called “O” scale stuff could be usefull, if it is available second hand, without looking at Collector’s prices.

Needless to say; I’m not too concerned with dedication to actual scale. I just need working signals that the train crews can actually see, in order to protect the crossing, but look OK to the average guy like me.


Fr. Fred,

I’m building some, they will more or less be operated like the proto’s back in the era I model.

#6

Personally Fred, I think the gate idea fits your RR better than light signals…besides, it would be a novel idea…:wink:

How you would control it from the dispatchers office is a problem, but maybe the RP&M guys could help with the control with the dispatcher.

#7

I have signals on my layout. I use the Aristo bridge at the moment. This is a working signal that is controlled by an EPL switch on a turnout that is hidden. The turnout is back in a crawl space and not visible to operators. It’s controlled by my TE and the signal tells me which way it is set.

(http://gold.mylargescale.com/wmumpower/LSC/Tunnel17.jpg)

The two tracks converge in the tunnel.

#8

Shilo signals are reasonably priced. Dwarfs around $10 and masted signals under $30. At that price you can hardly build them for less. http://www.geocities.com/shilohsig/colorlight.html

I know nothing about them - just got the link from here.

Jon

#9

Fred,
The following may help the first is a simplified wiring setup you may want to use http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.aspTOPIC_ID=50614
This one is for trakside signals onthe cheap
http://www.gscalemad.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=11224
And this is another light
http://www.gscalemad.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=11550

  Dave
#10

Thank you, Dave…

#11

Jon,
Those Shiloh signals look great. Thanks for the link. Has anybody wired one to an EPL drive or a DCC system? Or had ANY experience with them?
Thanks.

#12

And then there are nuts like me who want operating semaphores … :stuck_out_tongue:

#13

Chris,
Maybe use the detection system I showed to Fred and attach switch motors
Dave

#14

Fred, I used O-scale signals on the club layout, where I made the connection and switching/diversion area that goes to the inside yard… I wired them into the switches, so, when the switches were thrown, the lights would change accordingly… arriving towards to points, there were two targets, with 3 lights each, top target was for the mainline, and the bottom was for the diverging route… They have a built in board, that when changed from red to green, they went to yellow for about 10-12 seconds, before changing to green… their power was gained from the accessory wiring for the layout… Of course, I have no idea how they would hold up, outside… Just for information…

The gate would work, provided the trains crews are informed that prior to changing the gates guard, they must get approval from the dispatcher… A ““Slow Order”” trackage area leading up to the interchage could be instituted… Trackside signs could be made up, to inform the train crews, and placed in the crew orders…

Another method, would be a ““High Ball”” type signal…

just my 2 cents,

#15

Lots of great ideas…Thanks, guys…

#16

You know…

             Depending on if you could get a straight line run from your control center to the interchange you could simply burry a hose or small pipe and set the crossing gates with little cams and use the choke cable method as HO modelers use on switches, I would use heavy gauge wire like farmers use for an electric fence. ( the heavyist is 12.5 gauge )
 The hose would act as the bellcranks in this application, the more room the wire has to move around inside your tubing the more "flex" the system would have and make it  more adjustable.
 Granted, the gates would pretty much slam either open or closed depending on how fast you turn the bellcrank at your control center but a bumper could be camoflaged pretty easy in a garden.
 Actually I think if you used a regular garden hose it would not matter how straight it was as long as you did not have sharp bends in it and you would have total control while using the signals as a visual only.
 Call it a garden interlocking center or tower !!!

         


                                                                                                                                 Smokebox
#17

Now that I mention that there is no reason that we cant control the entire garden that way, you would have to make a box of some sort and place it below each switch(also connect it to the switch ), leave the threaded portion on and glue a repair peace into the box, screw the garden hose onto that and you will have control of the wire at the end of the run and be able to attach it to your switch through a rod/cam just like on the smaller scale under table control mounts.
I would think of maybe putting expanding foam in the end of the hose to keep water out of the hose but then again the wire is galvonized so it would still last a very long time!!
More than one wire could run down the hose and where it branches off to each area of the garden, just cut the hose and glue in Y fittings that fit inside the hose.

                                                                                                                    Smokebox
#18

I think operating by signals might be hard as your engineer isn’t in the cab of the loco looking down the track like in 12 inch scale.

#19

There would not be a problem, as the person operating the train is walking along beside the train…we use Battery/RC

#20

Rob;

The control tower that houses the dispatcher is about 50 feet from the crossing, so to use a gate with repote control, would be a larger project than I would want to tackle…so the signal idea leads the pack, at this point. Thanks for the ideas though…they can be used for other ideas that are cooking in my fertile mind !!!