Large Scale Central

ON30 Micro layout

Other Scales O / On30
#1

Latley I have been doing a ton of research on micro layouts. (Thanks to Vic he inspired me to start one). As far as what scale I decided to go with ON30. I really wanted to do G scale but the size I am going with would have been too small for the type of layout. Plus ON30 seems very affordable and the size is decent. Some of the key things I am going with

  • size is 4ft by 3ft
  • theme is logging
  • Loop with a few sidings for operation
  • Small trestle with a ravine

I went through many layout designs for ideas and I found pictures of this one.
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=903&forum_id=40
I really liked the track plan and going to do something like this. This layout is 4 by 2. I have an extra 1ft wide to work with.

Working with Ho track is new for me. I picked up a few sections of 100 code nickle silver track and turnouts. I also ordered a Bachmann Porter from St Aubins for $33. For log cars I plan on making them using some old trucks etc… from my HO cars I dug up.
I plan on glueing the track down but not sure how to do the joints. In G scale you can solder or use clamps. Can the Nickle silver be soldered together? or just leave them alone? I am also going to paint the ties to look more like wood and probably take out every-other tie. Im starting with a sheet of plywood. Then I plan on using styrofoam on top. That way I can cut out my ravine and then any hills/mountains I figure I can just build up the styrofoam in those areas. Something like what vic did with his pizza layout.
Im looking forward to starting this project and having a small layout I can use indoors when it rains or is too cold outside. If anyone has an ideas or suggestions please post. This is all new too me. I will post my progress once I start. For now just trying to learn what I can.

#2

Nickle Silver is a very good conductor, and as such, the rail joiners will do an adequate job conducting, but over time will get loose. Are you using flex track or sectional track? Flex track gives you more ability to be creative. In either case, if your soldering skills are good, solder feeder wires on the bottom of the rail and feed those through holes in the scenery to underneath the layout. You can then run two heavy gauge wires around under the layout and solder the feeder wires to them. Feeders can be as small as 22ga wire, the buss wires should be 18ga or larger. Are you going to wire as a single block, or multiple? What I’ve done on HO layouts in the past is use insulated joiners every few feet (on sectional track) or on each section of flex track. then when I wanted to re-do a block or create a block, all I had to do was change where the feeders attached under the layout.

#3

Shawn,
Do a search on “Shunting”. THe British have been buiulding small layouts in many scales for a long time. Micro Layouts do not always have to go in circles.

#4

Ric - My first micro I want something to be able to just sit and watch the trains go round but also have a few siding to play with. I do want to do a shelf layout that will be for operations/shunting and also be able to attach to the loop layout.

Steve - I am using flex track that way I can creat my own curves and have the track be not so perfect like the logging RR.
I plan on wiring as a single block since I will only be running a porter with a few log cars and maybe a box for a siding etc… I like the idea of soldering the feeders underneath.

The more research I do I am getting better ideas. I might just use styrofoam as my base rather then a sheet of plywood. This will make the layout much lighter and since it is only 4 by 3 it should work out well. Where do I get the styrofoam? My guess Lowes or home depot?

#5

Shawn,
Just giving you guff about those dreaded roudi-rounds, its a terrible disease. :wink: Still check out the “shunting layouts”. Some of them still go in circles. :wink: Just keep the trains short, that way it still looks like you are pulling the cars, instead of pushing the caboose.

#6

Well I figured I better update on my micro. I got most of the supplies to get the track down. I decided to use the blue styrofoam for my base. I glued two together that way I can carve out some ravines and hills. Then once the track is layed out i will start to build my mountainsetc… I have a basic idea for my track design. Basic oval with s curves. I have one siding that will branch off. One siding will be for the sawmill and the other will be where the cut wood from sawmill will be dripped off.
I also plan on using cork for under the track. Only problem is how do you bend cork for the curves???
I will try to get some pictures soon. Been working a lot of overtime at work.

#7

Shawn,

I don’t know that someone makes cork roadbed for Gauge 1 track. There are those who do make roadbed for G-1 track, but I just don’t know of any cork.

That said, it really doesn’t matter. Use the cork roadbed for 0 gauge track. Draw your track centerline on the styrofoam, then lay the 0 gauge cork on either side of that, equally spaced.

I am sure that you are familiar with the cork roadbed, but I suppose that there are some who don’t, so I will esplain(sic) the procedure. “No, there is too much, let me sum up.”

The cork strip is cut down the middle on a 45 degree angle. You must separate it along this cut. These 45 degree cuts then become the slope of the “ballast.” Align one of the strips (half of the roadbed) with the centerline, following the curve. This is easy to do… You will have to glue the cork to the styrofoam. There is a type of “Liquid Nails” that is safe for styrofoam, it says so on the tube. Just run a bead of glue on one side of the centerline, spread it out, then place the cork over it. I use staples to secure the cork while the glue dries, others use tacks. Then just place the remaining strip (for 0 Gauge) right next to the first strip, following the curves.

For Gauge 1 track, there will have to be a 13 - 15 mm gap between the two halves to make up the difference between the 0 gauge track at 32 mm wide and Gauge 1 track at 45 mm. It is not necessary to fill that gap with anything, especially if you plan to use ballast. I would think about using granite chicken grit, mixed with coarse and medium commercial ballast, but you might want to experiment to see what is pleasing to you.

Hope this is not too confusing, I haven’t had my second cup of coffee, yet. :stuck_out_tongue:

#8
Steve Featherkile said:
Shawn,

I don’t know that someone makes cork roadbed for Gauge 1 track. There are those who do make roadbed for G-1 track, but I just don’t know of any cork.

That said, it really doesn’t matter. Use the cork roadbed for 0 gauge track. Draw your track centerline on the styrofoam, then lay the 0 gauge cork on either side of that, equally spaced.

I am sure that you are familiar with the cork roadbed, but I suppose that there are some who don’t, so I will esplain(sic) the procedure. “No, there is too much, let me sum up.”

The cork strip is cut down the middle on a 45 degree angle. You must separate it along this cut. These 45 degree cuts then become the slope of the “ballast.” Align one of the strips (half of the roadbed) with the centerline, following the curve. This is easy to do… You will have to glue the cork to the styrofoam. There is a type of “Liquid Nails” that is safe for styrofoam, it says so on the tube. Just run a bead of glue on one side of the centerline, spread it out, then place the cork over it. I use staples to secure the cork while the glue dries, others use tacks. Then just place the remaining strip (for 0 Gauge) right next to the first strip, following the curves.

For Gauge 1 track, there will have to be a 13 - 15 mm gap between the two halves to make up the difference between the 0 gauge track at 32 mm wide and Gauge 1 track at 45 mm. It is not necessary to fill that gap with anything, especially if you plan to use ballast. I would think about using granite chicken grit, mixed with coarse and medium commercial ballast, but you might want to experiment to see what is pleasing to you.

Hope this is not too confusing, I haven’t had my second cup of coffee, yet. :stuck_out_tongue:


Thanks steve, I understood everything.

#9
Steve Featherkile said:
Shawn,

I don’t know that someone makes cork roadbed for Gauge 1 track. There are those who do make roadbed for G-1 track, but I just don’t know of any cork.

That said, it really doesn’t matter. Use the cork roadbed for 0 gauge track. Draw your track centerline on the styrofoam, then lay the 0 gauge cork on either side of that, equally spaced.

I am sure that you are familiar with the cork roadbed, but I suppose that there are some who don’t, so I will esplain(sic) the procedure. “No, there is too much, let me sum up.”

The cork strip is cut down the middle on a 45 degree angle. You must separate it along this cut. These 45 degree cuts then become the slope of the “ballast.” Align one of the strips (half of the roadbed) with the centerline, following the curve. This is easy to do… You will have to glue the cork to the styrofoam. There is a type of “Liquid Nails” that is safe for styrofoam, it says so on the tube. Just run a bead of glue on one side of the centerline, spread it out, then place the cork over it. I use staples to secure the cork while the glue dries, others use tacks. Then just place the remaining strip (for 0 Gauge) right next to the first strip, following the curves.

For Gauge 1 track, there will have to be a 13 - 15 mm gap between the two halves to make up the difference between the 0 gauge track at 32 mm wide and Gauge 1 track at 45 mm. It is not necessary to fill that gap with anything, especially if you plan to use ballast. I would think about using granite chicken grit, mixed with coarse and medium commercial ballast, but you might want to experiment to see what is pleasing to you.

Hope this is not too confusing, I haven’t had my second cup of coffee, yet. :stuck_out_tongue:


Go get your coffee, Steve…0n30 uses HO track…:wink:

#10

oops. :stuck_out_tongue:

#11
Steve Featherkile said:
oops. :P
I just realized that once I looked at the cork and the HO track it matched up fine. You had me worried steve. LOL
#12

Well here are some pictures of what I have done so far. I got the roadbed down for the loop. My next step is to start carving out my ravines and areas that need to be carved where the track will go. Once the carving is done then I can put the track down and get an engine running. Then I have to put down the roadbed for my sidings.

(http://i27.tinypic.com/2u94h8y.jpg)

(http://i25.tinypic.com/34gwl.jpg)

#13

I got the track down and the train runs great. I also started carving out my ravines etc… Next will be to get the siding down and Mt building.

(http://i28.tinypic.com/1d5yc.jpg)

(http://i26.tinypic.com/4lhpna.jpg)

(http://i26.tinypic.com/4lhpna.jpg)

#14

I got my sidings complete on my micro. Im also taking a break from my micro mainly because I got involved in creating a smaller Micro for my wifes desk at work (shes a teacher) and to work on my scenery skills for my larger one. I was going to do this layout in n scale but quickly realized how I do not like working in this scale plus no good porters for this scale as well. Anyway here is what I have completed. It is 24inches by 16 inches and in on30. So far I am happy with it. The challenge will be the scenary.

(http://i29.tinypic.com/352k9pe.jpg)

Portals are built from scratch

(http://i26.tinypic.com/2qnpjyx.jpg)

(http://i28.tinypic.com/4h61yb.jpg)

#15

I got my smaller micro layout done. This one is going to my wife for her classroom. The theme of the layout is an old school house scene. It came out better than I thought. I learned a lot from this. Next I have to tackle my other Micro I started with the sidings. thats going to be a logging theme…

(http://i25.tinypic.com/2ztm0lu.jpg)