Large Scale Central

Old RCS requires remote to be right next to locomotive to work

Problem Solving
#1

I have an old Bachmann Climax outfitted with the RCS system I purchased from TOC many years ago. I’ve reached out to Dave for ideas but have not heard back. I know that he is not feeling well.

It has always run just fine. However, recently it requires me to hold the remote right up next to the locomotive in order to start / stop or operate the bell and whistle. The battery in the locomotive is charged up and I replaced the battery in the remote but it makes no difference.

Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks

#2

Beyond the batteries does it have any kind of antennae on the board or remote? Maybe there is something wrong with those?

#3

Try another fresh battery in the remote. I have had new AA and AAA bad right out of the box.
(I don’t recall what battery goes in an RCS remote.)

#4

Dave usually wires them up to use the rail and an extended antenna. I’d say do one more battery swap on the Tx.

#5

I’ve just tried 3 new 9 volt batteries and still have the same issue.

#6

I agree with Craig that it’s probably an antenna issue. VERY weak reception wise so where is…never mind.

#7

There’s a possibility that the antenna wire is broken/came unsoldered/disconnected. That would require pulling the locomotive apart and inspecting.

#8

I never could get decent range from the RCS equipment, even with it connected to the rails. Maybe 10 feet max.

#9

Well at 10 feet you were doing great! However with it connected to the rails if you lay the TX on the track I could easily get 40 to 50 feet.

#10

I got 30-40’ with my old RCS Elite. Once at Rog’s track I was running my loco and a guy 30’ ft away yelled “is anyone using an RCS”. His loco kept jumping forward and off the edge of the siding, as he was on the same frequency/code.

First thing I did when I got home was change my RX/TX off the default!

#11

And then what happened ?
If that’s the case on range could you explain how to take off the default setting then??

#12

Wrong thtread, once again.

#13

Rick, when you grace a thread, it’s always rhright.

#14

Changing off the default, which meant changing the dip switches, (in the TX and RX,) made no difference to the range, but I never again got complaints from owners whose trains were reacting unusually.

#15

Ok… so what’s the answer?

#16

Didn’t you read the posts?

#17

Of course! What the F##K is your problem!?

#18

The problem is that you don’t respect anyone.

Maybe say “Thanks” once in a while, when experts in the field answer your questions…

And actually listen?

2 Likes
#19

I agree. I’m all for helping people but I even have limits.

Not trying to blame Timmy, but it often seems he wants/needs a plug and play solution for any electrical problems. And unfortunately electrical problems aren’t that simple. And when you don’t feel completely comfortable pulling things apart to fix, well it’s even worse.

I’m all for growing the hobby but these types of basic questions unfortunately aren’t unique to this forum, not are the posters asking similar questions that with a basic understanding of soldering, electrical circuits and patience can’t fix.

I’ll offer to fix at $200 an hour. :roll_eyes: And I’ll even wire up his extra battery plug. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Timmy,
Pull apart your locomotive and snap some pictures and then maybe people would have a bit more patience to answer.

#20

Everyone relax and take a deep breath.