I was reading the other day (was it here?) where it was recommended to change over the stock wheels on the USA Trains F-3A locomotive to larger wheels made by NWSL to make the engine more prototypical. I assume this is recommended for the B unit also? Anyway, unless the parts are cost prohibitive or not in stock, I guess I’d better get on the stick and buy some.
be sure you get the wheels with the right flanges, they have 3 different wheels.
the prototype ones have such a short flange you cannot run them, really
The ones with the largest flanges may have flanges so thick that you cannot achieve back to back AND gauge at the same time… be sure to check that the flange thickness is within NMRA / G1MRA specs. The only one that makes sense to me is a 2.5mm flange depth on the “largest” wheel sets, the next size down is 1.6 which really won’t work for 99% of the people.
Also be aware sometimes the tread width is quite a bit narrower so your gauge and back to back become more critical.
Lastly be ready to basically grind your brake shoes almost all the way off to clear the wheels.
Given those provisos, if you find what you want, get them… be aware that the 40" wheels are wheels only, and if you have never pressed the half axles out of the wheels, you are in for a treat (hint 10-20 ton press)
Greg
Sadly, the USAT replacement wheels aren’t even listed online anymore.
I have the old 270 tread wheels and they work just fine on code 215, 250 and 332 track.
Ross Mansell said:
John Caughey said:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ."
After all the Chinese didn’t want it; 'We make toys, you break it, you buy a new one. We don’t make and stock parts…'
Quite.
This is why I refuse to buy any extremely expensive engines or rolling stock and focus on buying as much reliable bulletproof old school stuff as I can get my hands on, I figure I have enough old LGB, Mack’s and Lil Haulers to last through attrition until I’m in a permanent horizontal orientation.
Curmudgeon mcneely said:
So, somebody sends me a linque, and here I yam.
TOC
Hey TOC, nice to read you again, hope things are well. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Vic Smith said:
This is why I refuse to buy any extremely expensive engines or rolling stock and focus on buying as much reliable bulletproof old school stuff as I can get my hands on, I figure I have enough old LGB, Mack’s and Lil Haulers to last through attrition until I’m in a permanent horizontal orientation.
Well, you could always get into live steam and get yourself one of the UK made “Roundhouse” products. Many of which will be happy on LGB R1’s. They are famous for their “bullet proof” products, customer service and stocks of spares. Go on, you know you want to Vic (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Max Winter said:
Vic Smith said:
This is why I refuse to buy any extremely expensive engines or rolling stock and focus on buying as much reliable bulletproof old school stuff as I can get my hands on, I figure I have enough old LGB, Mack’s and Lil Haulers to last through attrition until I’m in a permanent horizontal orientation.
Well, you could always get into live steam and get yourself one of the UK made “Roundhouse” products. Many of which will be happy on LGB R1’s. They are famous for their “bullet proof” products, customer service and stocks of spares. Go on, you know you want to Vic (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
If I could ever afford it, perhaps if I ever get the outside line built I’ll have a good excuse for it (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Peter,
Are the gears metal or a resin type?
If you are referring to the NWSL Connie gear it was metal. But the ones that came to my shop did not fit the Bachmann axle. I have to drill them out with a 1/4 inch bit.
As Dave mentioned they do not have the shoulders that the Bachmann ones do, so they have to be shimmed with a 10 thou washer on each side. Now that the Aristo-Craft FA-1 washers are no longer available, you have to import them from China. I think I used Amazon for my last batch.
Yes Da…TOC, its nice to see you again.
Vic, at this point I have all I need in Large Scale and HO, but I know me, and I know I will buy more. Hopefully, if I need any aftermarket fixes, someone will have them available. What with the home hobbyist coming back into vogue, what with home 3D printers and laser cutters, They might provide us with more fixes then we can imagine.
I hate to hear that NWSL is closing. I ordered a good bit from them last year because it is difficult to produce the thin lumber in my shop. Looks like I will need to place an order. Maybe someone will purchase it like happened to Grandt Line products.
About those Bachmann gears. I had the problem of Bachmann Trolley gears splitting. Couldn’t afford to buy new motor blocks, so I 3D printed about half a dozen. They are “close enough” to duplicate gears and work fine. If I needed a lot of them I’d have to figure a way to do it. But small quantities can be 3D printed pretty quickly.
I am convinced that 3D printing can be VERY useful to keeping old equipment from discontinued lines of out-of-business companies running.
Dick, yes, I agree.
And for those of us without 3D printers, we can still duplicate some parts with latex molds and resin.
I’d be interested in long term reports on printed gears in USA Trains, Aristo, Bachmann locos. I know you have printed for the trolley, but that’s a little less stress.
In any case NWSL made a market by producing machined delrin gears, our printed stuff is far from that in strength and wear resistance… is it enough? Time will tell, but for now those components are a loss to the hobby.
Greg