Large Scale Central

North latitudes trees for our RRs

Gardening
#1

So the convo on bonsai spruces and myrtles (and tomato plants) got me wondering about eventually having trees for my layout. I don’t want a railroad in a garden, I don’t really want a garden in my railroad. I want to play with my trains not pull weeds. But I do want some plants, I want some trees. Alberta spruces will be high on the list as my theme is N Idaho in the 1890’s in the woods so pine trees are a must. But what are some other trees for the Northern US that can be used on our layouts. I am thinking I want to keep them potted to keep them small and I would like to prune them to keep them scale. I have green house they could be moved to but it would not be climate controlled and would freeze. IF I had too a few could be brought in for the winter.

So looking for ideas on what to look for and how to care for them. Maybe get a start on them.

#2

In addition to Alberta spruce, I also have boxwood, mugo pine, camicyprus sp., some sort of red maple that I dug up from my dad’s place, unknown trees that my lovely bride planted. Oh, yeah, the occasional juniper.

#3

Boxwoods are a good choice, as are several forms of hedge. I have several “volunteers” (weeds) that just showed up, and I keep them pruned to look like trees. Since they are native to the area, they survive quite well.

#4

I do like the boxwoods. Both those and Alberta spruce are available at my local box store. I might pick up a couple to play with.

#5

Also check out the 1 gallon Emerald Green Arborvitae. They are very hardy and winter better than Boxwoods or Spruces. I have all three plus some Volunteer Hemlock.

#6

And a comment about keeping them potted. You can do that; I do it with some Palms that winter inside. My trees are in the ground and grow slow. After 5 years only a few are “too big” and need to be cut down some. If you leave them potted don’t move them to un-heated space over winter; just leave them in the ground. The roots will be better protected. Potted trees will need to be watered more than in-ground trees ans their root system has less area to draw from and it can dry up fast.

#7

If you leave them potted, you will have to prune the roots from time to time, probably every 2 or 3 years. Otherwise, they get root bound.

#8

Boxwoods look better if you pick the strongest trunk and cut back the other ones. More tree-like. Experiment with the arborvitae.

#9

Devon Sinsley said:

I want to play with my trains not pull weeds.

So looking for ideas on what to look for and how to care for them. Maybe get a start on them.

Then you need “ground cover” to inhibit the growth of weeds and grasses.

Various thymes work great in So Cal, but you need to find something that will work in your environment. I spend very little time on weeds and grasses and more time on keeping my thyme off the rails.

#10

I’ve done a number of pages on plants, characterized by what they can represent in miniature: (pretty much Bonsai)

http://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=92&Itemid=117

There are links to the various types near the top of the page, so you can pick juniper, cedar, pine, spruce, etc. Try a few links.

Here’s a nice Norway Spruce bonsai:

Greg

#11

I do like the idea of wintering in place. I plan to install drip irrigation on timers to the entire layout so watering won’t be an issue. Ground covers are a whole different topic but one I am comfortable with. We use them a lot in our flower gardens and walks. I plan to make much of the layout inhospitable to plant growth by way of much hardscaping or dryscaping however you prefer to call it. plantings will be intentional.

#12

OK so was in Lowes today with the wife looking at siding options and she wanted a few plants. I walked by these

I couldn’t resist. A Dwarf Alberta Spruce and a Dwarf English Boxwood, $7.95 each. I am chopping on the Alberta Source thinning it a bit make it look a little more like a scale pine tree. I haven’t messed with the boxwood yet. I am wondering, the boxwood has three stems. I think it was Steve that said trim it down to one. So I have identified the fullest one. This one is small so hoping to be able to really influence it. Should I cut out the other two and work with the one. I actualy would like to make it look fruit treeish.

#13

It depends on how close the stems are. I was able to cut the root ball on mine and end up with 2 tress, it had 2 stems. But they were separate enough that I could do that. If they actually come together, then you would have to cut the smaller ones off.

#14

Steve Featherkile said:

In addition to Alberta spruce, I also have boxwood, mugo pine, camicyprus sp., some sort of red maple that I dug up from my dad’s place, unknown trees that my lovely bride planted. Oh, yeah, the occasional juniper.

"Chamaecyparis "

#15

David the three stems were darn close together. I say were because it is now one. I went a little crazy with it. Not much left. But I am hoping now that I can work it into a nice shaped tree.

#16

Here is what happened to my poor bushes

Hopefully a good start and not a murder.

#17

That looks good, Devon.

#18

I enjoy a good hinoki cypress for interesting green all year round!

Pic found on google.

The one on the left is on my layout!

#19

I like that little cypress. That would look good. The majority will likely be Alberta spruces for the first look but a few others like the boxwood or that cypress or juniper would be nice for acents around buildings

#20

I like the Dwarf Alberta Spruces best. I think I have around 60 on my layout lol. Boxwoods are great as well as Japaneses Maples. Get seedlings from the parent tree and just trim once they get to the desired height. I also like Barberry they loss the leaves in the winter and have small red berries and are very hardy to all weather conditions.