Large Scale Central

Noobie q's

Modeling Technical Modeling
#1

Well, with the blessing of my better half (and the appropriate contra deal), I’ve finally bought a PLA printer. I got the Creality Ender3 V3 KE mainly because it was the cheapest one locally that gets hot enough to do the higher temp filaments (300/100 deg C). In theory…

So first Q: dialing in - I’ve just done white PLA, (temp, flow, PA), do I need to calibrate black PLA, or any other colour if it’s from the same supplier?

Second, no domestic issues with noise or smell using PLA on the kitchen table :slight_smile: - is PETG ok inside or should I plan to move the printer into the (cold) workshop now. I’m guessing that would mean an enclosure…?

Thirdly: Has anyone tried to print functional tie strips? ASA I guess would be the material. I’ve got the suspect AML track and it’s only a matter of time before the ties fail in the UV. At this stage replacing them is more expensive than the track cost when I got it.

Tks for your help.

Cheers
N
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#2

I always calibrate different colors, they often will flow differently. Black (at least the brand I use) is notoriously greasy.

I’m just getting into PETG and have detected no difference in smells than PLA

#3

I personally don’t give a rats ass about the PLA printer. I wanna learn more about the deal and whether it involves private jets flying into another country under the cover of darkness?

#4

Of course it does! Wouldn’t be fun otherwise. :grin:

However it centres around shoes rather than weapons, cash and hostages (I hope)…

N

#5

Neil,

Apologies for perhaps providing too much information, but as I knew no one in SA doing 3D printing when I started I almost gave up on the hobby. There are a few simple things I learnt that can keep you from wanting to throw your arms up in the air.

Consider downloading Slic3r from Prusa. It’s open source and includes settings for printers other than Prusa on the list. They’ve also tested and made settings for a large number of brands and types of filament, so you won’t have to tweak temperatures much if any with your machine.

:point_down:

Ender settings for Prusa Slicer

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I’ve successfully printed PLA in 12 degree room (and I don’t recommend it) , but If you’re going to print in ABS or ASA consider an enclosure for the printer to lower warping risk (ABS loves to warp at room temp.). The enclosure doesn’t have to be expensive (20AUD) . I’m in the process of using IKEA table hack, but you don’t have to spend that much. (See below for hacks)

It’s worthwhile using a glue stick on the bed for PETG as it can really adhere to the bed surface. You can have great success with simple glue sticks like UHU, but magigoo is well worth the purchase price.

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PLA can be used outside with some caveats. It can slump in relatively low temperatures (sitting in your car) and doesn’t like UV. So if your summer is not too hot, a spray of an automotive clear UV spray will help it survive the sun.

ASA is probably your best UV strength combination. PETG ok, but tends to string a bit and is harder to paint. It’s relatively easy to get rid of stringing with a hot hairdryer or better, a heat gun.

#6

Thanks Bob, good to know.

So, does that greasy stuff still take paint? Or, more accurately, weathering stains? I’ve got a project in mind to convert all my aristo journal boxes to bearings and I’ll probably want to rust and grime them.

N

#7

Thanks Bill,

All info is good, been hoovering the internet all weekend, my head is about to explode… :laughing:

The printer came with a textured PEI plate, which seems good so far (until print 5 when I had to actually follow instructions and IPA the surface after running greasy paws all over it). I’ve got my eye on my daughters school stationary for glue stick ICoE.

If/when I get to ABS or ASA it’ll have to move to the shed and get some kind of enclosure. Tks for the temp controller model MH1210A controller hint. Everything I could google find was 230V and stupid expensive. $10 ea is my cup of tea!

Cheers
N

#8

Ha!

I initially thought your IPA was a beverage reference, as I’ve sat at a sticky table where one was spilt, and after several wipes the table remained sticky. :joy:

I have found the drier the isopropyl alcohol is the better it seems to work at getting rid of oily fingerprints, (eg 95% better than 70%). You can get 99.97% but at a significant cost with little benefit. Every once in a while I still use acetone to clean the plate. Acetone does an amazing clean, but reportedly it can damage the painted textured plate if used too often.

If using a glue stick, you can spread it with a bit of water on the plate to give a thinner coat and get really good results. It’s highly recommended to use glue on the plate when printing with PETG to keep the PETG from strongly adhering bonding to your print plate. You just have to let the heated bed dry the glue before printing.

However if you want to really lower the risk of your print coming off the plate, Magigoo works exceptionally well with one coating for multiple prints.

Don’t be afraid of using the brim option for printing. It helps hold your print down and keep warping from being an issue. And consider a cheap $9 burr remover. It’s a real time saver.

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https://www.amazon.com.au/zhuohai-Deburring-Anti-Slip-Plastic-Aluminum/dp/B097K58SMZ/ref=asc_df_B097K58SMZ/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=407150668989&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4256874899633557408&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9070900&hvtargid=pla-1610160299712&psc=1&mcid=31b7c4c3cee337f5a1aadd831b8bbdc7

#9

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You can never have too many shoes I suppose?