Large Scale Central

Newbie trying to figure out the best outdoor track to go with

Track and Trestles
#1

There is a lot of conflicting info out there on which track to buy and so much has changed price wise that alot of the info is out of date. So in today’s market which way is the best to go without spending more than I reasonably have to? Where is the best place to look for used track? Any recommendations for on-line dealers you can trust for a fair price and decent service? Are better deals to be had at the larger shows than you can find on-line? Just starting out, I know we are going to make mistakes but if I can keep from spending money unwisely and not get ripped off, we might just get somewhere in this new hobby.

Any suggestions will be appreciated
Jim Schneider

#2

I’ll take a crack at it

Do you want to run on batteries or on track power? If you put batteries and remote control in the trains, you can get away with cheaper aluminum track or brass track with no worries about conductivity. If I were starting out and was committed to running on batteries, I’d go with aluminum track

If you’re going to run on track power brass is relatively cheap and easy to find. I have 90% or so brass on my layout. I have a mix of Aristocraft, LGB and AML track. The downside of brass is it oxidizes and needs cleaning. It’s not that big a deal–I just run a track cleaning car around. The more serious downside is that you need to worry about maintaining track continuity. I put some anti-corrosion paste in all the track joiners as I laid the track–it makes a big difference. You can use “permatiex anti seize compound” from the auto parts store. As time went on, I added the more expensive “rail clamps.” You can buy track in stainless steel, and it needs less cleaning. I use track power, and brass, and it works well. If I had the dough, I’d redo-the whole thing in stainless

If you care about accuracy you will want code 250 rail. The standard brass G guage track is “code 332,” and it’s very durable–kids can walk on it, no problem, adults can too. But it’s way too tall to scale out accurately. If I were really concerned with accuracy, I’d buy stainless or brass code 250 rail.

Where to buy it? There are a bunch of online retailers but shipping is expensive. I plan to wait until the East Coast Large Scale Train Show to buy track. Stuff is on sale there and there’s no shipping but the show is an easy drive from my house.

I’ve had very good luck with Ridge Road Station and with RLD hobbies. Trainworld also has good prices and ships fast.

You can find used track on ebay and sometimes in hobby shops. Just watch out that it’s not too worn–the curves will show wear and they can wear out

If you want to save money, but it all at once. Aristocraft track is excellent and they have a deal where if you buy four cases of track you get a fifth box free. It’s still not cheap, but if you can swing it it saves money. You might want to invest in some track planning software

It’s a great hobby

#3

Its one of the great debates Jim. They include track vs. battery power and scale issues.
Much homework to do if you want to go track power or battery powered.
If track power got with stainless steel track (AristoCraft and H&R trains for code 332 and Sunset Valley for code 250).
If battery power and not being walked on a lot go with aluminum rail. Aristo is just coming out with code 332 flex track (just in stock and will be less than $2/foot), Llagas Creek and Sunset Valley sell code 250. Switchcrafters has code 250 switches.
Either way you want to go with a dual rail rail bender like the Train-Li ( http://www.train-li-usa.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=54_36&products_id=31 ).
St. Aubins in Illinois ( http://www.staubinonline.com/ ) is one of the largest dealers and usually among the best prices. They are also a sponsor of the Heart of America show in KC in the summer ( http://www.hagrs.com/ ).
Buying at a show can save you shipping charges but you’ll be limited to Aristo track most likely.
Used track? Buy locally. Joining your local club will lead you to members getting rid of track (sometimes for free).
My primary layout uses Aristo code 332 stainless with 5 foot straights and sectional curves (no dual rail benders then!). Its mostly track power supplemented with a few battery-RC trailer cars. My secondary layout is used Aristo brass, bought for less than a buck a foot from a club member. It was curved with the Train-Li bender. Its designed for battery power (mostly simple, no RC). See my website for more and be sure to ask lots of questions.

-Brian

#4

Jim.
You have started well by asking questions before investing heavily in track.

Mike is right.
At last, after much jumping up and down over the years by the battery power brigade to get recognised as an initially viable alternative when selecting track, potential Large Scalers are considering the type of power/operation before spending money.
It can definitely work out less expensive for track to go with battery power.
As usual there will be trade offs no matter which way you go.,

#5

Welcome Jim -

I can’t add anything else other than to say that no matter what decision you make today, your are bound to change somewhere down the road. Don’t worry about it so much that it keeps you from getting started.

I initially chose track power. My first tentative steps with outdoor track were brass sectional. When I started installing my permanent layout (is there such a thing?) I chose Aristo Stainless. I buy only 5Ft straights and bend/cut as needed. When I bought my bender the two rail benders weren’t available. Bending with a single rail bender is a challenge, but not impossible. I use the original screw-on joiners with no paste. After 5 years on the ground it still works well on track power. I use clamps at switches so they can be quickly removed for service.

As time progressed I began experiment with battery and a trail car. Over 50% of my fleet is still track power, but they do get run less and less lately. I’m leaning toward doing some on-board battery conversions, but my budget is holding me back.

Good luck in whatever you decide. And feel free to ask as many questions as you like. One of our members, Barry Olsen has a great tag line: “There are no dumb questions”.

#6

I just got into the hobby about a year ago. I ended up with brass track from aristo. I went this route for two reasons it was a little cheaper and my layout was not going to be large (cleaning would be easy) It does conduct better than stainless but does get dirty faster. Some use rail joiners, I skipped that route and again I felt they were a liitle pricy. I just screwed jumper wires and used the aristo screws at the joiners. They have worked fine for me. I also run track power because I dont wont to have to worry about charging batteries and replacing them. There is arguments that battery is cheaper than electric power. I still find that hard to beleive, unless you go with a basic system (on and off amd maybe a speed control) I went with sectional track but now that I am expanding I went with the 4.5 ft flex track. Garden RR mag had an article on how to make a rail bender so im going to do that its a lot cheaper. I cant see spending 295 bucks for a rail bender. That money can double the size of my layout IMO. Im also building a low budget railway. If I can make it for a lot less money thats the route I go. Of course if you have the money then get the railbender, rail clamps etc… You are doing the right thing by going on this site. Everyone is great and if it was not for these guys I wouldnt be where Im at today. Its a great hobby and well worth it.

#7

I’d sure be looking at flex track, in whatever metal you decide. I started with code 332 sectional track, but when I redid my layout I went with code 250 brass, and I really like the look of the smooth curves. I didn’t use a rail bender, but used the ladder method to get my curves nice and smooth; then the track was firmly attached to the ladder.

Note that I have only ever used battery outdoors. My indoor layout back in the 80’s was all track power; I think that experience helped me decide on batteries.

#8

Thanks for all of the information. I definitely want to stay with track power. The other issue I have is this will undoubtly be step on by animals (ie deer, dogs and ungraceful humans) so I was thinking code 332 Stainless would help there also. Will all track benders work with brass or stainless? When looking at listing it normally doesn’t say.

Jim

#9

I only have experience with the Train-Li but it works fine on SS. Aristo is coming out with one thats pretty much a rip off of the Train Li but should be a bit cheaper.

-Brian

#10

I have the old Aristo bender. It works on both Brass and Stainless. The stainless makes your arm tired faster, but it bends just fine.

#11

Jim.

The new aristo flex track looks like you have to buy the tie strips separately. It’s also 72" long which means that shipping will be extra.Seems track over 4.5’ in length adds extra on the shipping.
Stay away from Bachman track unless you are indoors.It’s hollow and will rust out in no time.

Dave

#12

HI Jim

I have all brass 332 outside and track power. I have used a mix of LGB, USA and Aristo. I like the USA and Aristo the best. I the only thing I would have done diff that I am now having to go back over and fix is rail clamps. I hve had good luck with the screws but have still had a few problems in the winter time with track pulling apart. Must be that great midwest weather. You now the rain, sleet, snow, winds and hi heat all before lunch on wednesdays.

Anyway, I would do the rail clamps at your swiches and you can never put to many power points on your layout for track power.

#13

Welcome Jim,
As Tony stated your off to a great start by asking first. There are many things I did trial and error that were already done if I would have asked! These guys pretty much said it all. The only thing I can add and perhaps a question for you is what are you planning? A large RR or a small one…switching or large mainline class 1? Steam or big modern day stuff. Do you want to sit on the patio and crack a cold one while the trains run or do you want to play with them in the yard or siding on a very detailed industry you just built or bought. I feel this makes a difference in your options on track and may make a difference between track or battery.
I choose to use Aristo 332 brass and I run track power… it does need cleaning. However I like M.U. diesels and prefer to run my long modern trains most of the day. For the majority of my RR I bought 8’ flex rail and added ties, for the rest I used 5’ sections and soldered them together(the rails them self not a wire) in 16’ and 15’ lengths for the straights. I connected those sections with split jaw or hillman clamps. I removed all the little screws that hold the rail to the ties with the sectional track(this must be done to allow too float or expand/contract.)
I used sectional track for my turns. My straights are about 60’ long and are fastened to a ladder roadbed or PT wood decking every 10’ or so with a screw. The radius is on a ladder roadbed and is not fastened. With this system the expansion/contraction is taken in the turns as demonstrated by Jack Verducci and Norm Grant already. I feed the main outer loop in one spot and have about 300’ of track with one feed(need to add a few more feeders). On a final note if I was to do it again(with Aristo track) I would buy the track with the Euro ties as I find them more durable then the US ties and you stated the stuff would be stepped on. I’m not too concerned about finicky detail just running trains. Every RR varies so depending on what your after these options could make a difference in what you decide to purchase track wise.
Either way I hope to see pictures of your future RR!!!

      David
#14

Jim,

All this is sound advice. What Geoff says is right on the money. Lots of contacts between the power packs and the rack if going with track power and the rail clamps become a better electrical connection with each year.

I have 332 track, buried in the ballast the rail height looks okay to me. I use aristo and lgb track with all 1600 lgb turnouts. Only some of our track is track powered, but those rail clamps carry that power between the rail sections without hesitation.