Large Scale Central

New vs. Used

Track and Trestles
#1

So I am starting from scratch for an outdoor setup. Since the track is going to weather it really doesn’t matter to me if it is used as New will look used in no time outside.

I have been looking on EBay and some online stores. It seems if I am seeing things right that used track is the same price as new track. Am I right? Am I not looking in the right places?

What are the store you use either online and Brick & Mortar?

ADDED NOTE: I am planning on running Track Power and with DCC so I can run a train and a trolley or work car at the same time. I have a lot to learn about DCC!

#2

Look at code 250 track. SVRR has it in different metals. Kidman’s Reindeer Pass carries it, and the SVRR switches are great. Code 250 looks a lot better with our trains, since it is a little smaller, so that means less materials are used. http://www.reindeerpass.com/

#3

Mark, are you running track power or battery? I run live steam and am very happy with aluminum rail, but it’s not great if you run track power, since it oxidizes rather fast. I got my 200 feet of track and ties from Switchcrafters for 2.90 something a foot. Pretty cheap as far as new track goes. I’m also running code 250 as Jerry suggests. One drawback to the aluminum is its inability to solder if you making your own switches, but there’s ways around that.

#4

Battery or track power?

Used track might have ties ready to crumble, need to see pix of it first.

Greg

#5

yes, track seems to be like gold. stable prices, no discount for age.

the cheapest used track one gets on ebay or elsewhere are 1ft. sections of curved R1 track. (every starterset includes a dozen of them)

about 70 to 80% of my layout are re-bent R1 sections.

#6

I am planning on running Track Power using Brass track and with DCC so I can run a train and a trolley or work car at the same time. I have a lot to learn about DCC! From what I have read so far and the few people I have spoken to it seems LGB track is what I should be using.

So the feedback here is to go new, that’s what I was thinking but couldn’t believe it. I didn’t see a reason to go with new just because I am starting, having new normally makes you feel good about starting something but then that feeling fades and you now have what you could have gotten cheaper used and helped someone get rid of what they didn’t need anymore.

#7

So for places to purchase I now have:
Reindeer Pass Railroad

Other Recommendations:
G Scale Junction - Anyone deal with them?

#8

G Scale Junction has a good rep, they’ve been around for years.

#9

I’ll second the Code 250 and while you’re at it go for flextrack. Curves in the radii you want, minimal number of rail joints; makes things look good and the fewer joints the better for DCC.

#10

Mark, I run DCC also, and am very happy with the decisions I have made. Please consider using stainless steel rail also, since it drastically reduces track maintenance. Some people have very little issues with brass outside and track power, others have a lot of cleaning issues.

A major new supplier of stainless steel track is coming on board that might make it less expensive.

You might take a look on my site on my DCC pages.

Regards, Greg

#11

Greg Elmassian said:

Mark, I run DCC also, and am very happy with the decisions I have made. Please consider using stainless steel rail also, since it drastically reduces track maintenance. Some people have very little issues with brass outside and track power, others have a lot of cleaning issues.

A major new supplier of stainless steel track is coming on board that might make it less expensive.

You might take a look on my site on my DCC pages.

Regards, Greg

Thanks Greg you certainly did cover a lot of issues I have been thinking about. I am electrical by nature.

#12

Mark,

I use track power and I’ve been using 332 brass track for over 15 years. It’s a combination of LGB, USA, and Aristo. Over time, I’ve had to replace some of the ties. As you might guess, my track is quite weathered. I generally clean my track using a pole sander with a Scotch Brite pad attached a couple of times a year. In between those cleanings I use my homemade track cleaner which is a U25B with a Scotch Brite block riding between the trucks. I run it for 4-5 loops before running my other trains.

I’ve never found track cleaning to be a big deal as some people have. It’s all part of the fun of having an outdoor RR.

Look for the best deals. Used or new brass track function the same. Yes you may have to replace some tie strips but that’s also not such a big deal.

BTW, I was born and raised in the Pittsburgh area (Irwin) and graduated from the University of Pittsburgh.

Doc Watson

#13

Greg, Do you have a contact for this stainless steel rail supplier? It would be wonderful if ss flex track rail became available again. I’ve had ss rail down (with LGB ties) for over 10 years and have had very few issues. It stays clean, conducts electricity very well and holds up well to the deer traffic. By the way, your webite is amazing. It has been a very helpful resource to me. Thanks for offering so much info. Mark

#14

Don, Hi Another Pittsburgh connection. I love it.

#15

Mark Betlem said:

Don, Hi Another Pittsburgh connection. I love it.

Yup, Getting better in the Burgh all the time!

Mark D, When you settle on what track you want I have a good rail bender you can borrow to shape it. You’ll have too much sticker shock from the rail purchase to want to invest in a bender too.

Also not sure if you’ve seen yet that not all tie strips work with all rails. You have to consider what ties you want standard gauge or narrow, American or Euro, ect… and then see what materials and sizes (code) is available to fit it. If you want to be picky about ties that is.

#16

Mark,

If you call Scott at Polks GenNext, hes said he would give a discount to people building a new railway.

#17

I have a mix of LGB, Aristo and USAT track. I like the 332 becuase it can take the abuse of my cocker spaniel chasing a squirrel down the right of way. Over the years I have been able to pick up used track on Ebay and at train shows. I haven’t had any problems with crumbling ties but I see where that could be a problem if your track is left to roast in the Summer sun. I wonder if this is an old Aristo problem with their black ties VS LGB brown?
With a good power source you can run mulitple trains at once but of course when you hit stop they all stop. You could run track power then battery RC one to run independent.
If I were you Mark I would start off small with brass track, get a train running this Summer and see how you like the hobby in general. Over the Winter you can hit shows and shop for deals to further your empire next year.
If you are using track power try to get the longest pieces of track you can to cut down on the amount of breaks. Even with track clamps ( another expense) having many joints will eventually cause you headaches as dirt works its way in.
Also try and keep your curves at least 8’ in diameter that way you will be able to run most equipment on them.
Another pinch point are switches. If you plan on having them try and get wide radius ones. I started with LGB R1 turnouts which can still be found in my yards but coming off the main I have gone to wider ones. Your trains will thank you.
Happy RRing

#18

If you don’t mind cleaning the oxide off brass and/or you live where it does not oxidize rapidly, a big advantage is you can solder jumpers to the rails and save on not buying rail clamps.

In my case, cost was not an object, lowest overall maintenance was/is and so all stainless and splitjaw stainless clamps.

I do have to admit that I waited for Aristo to come out with SS rail, since the only other manufacturer at the time was the beautiful SS rail from H&R trains in Florida, which was TWICE the cost… :wink:

Greg

#19

Nico Corbo said:

Mark,

If you call Scott at Polks GenNext, hes said he would give a discount to people building a new railway.

Contact information?

#20

Greg Elmassian said:

If you don’t mind cleaning the oxide off brass and/or you live where it does not oxidize rapidly, a big advantage is you can solder jumpers to the rails and save on not buying rail clamps.

In my case, cost was not an object, lowest overall maintenance was/is and so all stainless and splitjaw stainless clamps.

I do have to admit that I waited for Aristo to come out with SS rail, since the only other manufacturer at the time was the beautiful SS rail from H&R trains in Florida, which was TWICE the cost… :wink:

Greg

I like H&R Trains in Clearwater, I have been there a few times. They have a nice G-Scale setup outside. They recently had their annual open house where I was able to talk to a few people who have been doing this for a while. I got some good insight from them. Unfortunately H&R Trains is getting out of supplying the bits and pieces and going more to selling sets only. I will be down there again this weekend and I might stop in.